Search results

So I needed to replace vacuum hose to my PCV valve and when I pulled out the valve and went to my bench to replace the hose, out popped this little nipple with a o-ring on it. I assume it came from the brass pcv valve. How do I correctly put that back into the valve - don't want that thing...

My PM is done in. This was the second PM for the car. Not inclined to mess around again. She's mostly stock, but not 100%. I have bigger injectors and fuel regulator, plenum spacer, ram air, not much else to the engine itself. stock turbo/intercooler/cam/heads/etc. Looking at Kirban...

I haven't been active in a while. No time to enjoy buick with work and kids the last few years. Only been starting/running every three weeks or so, occasional drive. Started her up today and pulled out into the driveway and when I pulled back in after running 6 or 7 minutes, she was pissing...

I've got a slow brake fluid leak - few drops on the floor after a drive, wet undercarriage. Looking up from underneath - I see a couple of drops hanging from the bottom of the pump - so I assume the leak is coming from up there. area around the switch, accumulator, and reservoir are all bone...

So even after reading a lot of threads on this topic, I'm still confused on what my prob is. I have a pan in my garage to catch the 2 drops of oil that come out after every drive. 2 days ago my wife calls me at work and says the pan is half full of water. Never seen that before - it had...

Any idea what wire this might be just 'hangin around' in my fuse box not connected to anything???

Well, I've read dozens and dozens of speedometer threads and I'm still not sure what to do next. I have Performance Industries GNX 'style' dash, in the car and working for years. Haven't done anything to anything remotely close to the dash or the speedometer or the vss. Thought the cable may...

Haven't posted in a while...but I've been reading. Just started driving my car on a daily basis after a several years of being a periodic weekend car. Anyway, over the course of the last 3-4 weeks, I've worked out a few issues that you'd expect to come up after not being drivin daily. Now I...

I have Aluminum rear drums, stock cylinders, Kirban soft shoes, and GNX (classic industries) wheels. Rear brakes squeak bad when I'm going slow and breaking (think parking lot...embarrassing)...either going fwd or in reverse. I have Baer brakes up front and stock brass proportioning valve...

Cranks a couple a seconds then clicks. Hooked up the battery tender and charged battery. Voltage 12.5 at the battery. Scan master showed 11.4 or 11.6 with the key in ignition/run (and decreased by 0.2 for each start attempt). Checked the battery drain - don't think I have too much, in the...

Just finished my brake work. Have Baers on the front and bigger S-10 cylinders on the back with big soft shoes (Kirban) and aluminum drums. Had to install a proportioning valve to get them balanced correctly. I think they are locking up about the same time (fronts and rears) now. Probably...

Quick refresher. I'm installing my adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake line. As a matter of course, drained all the fluid out of the rear brake reservoir and uncovered the port (front reservoir). When I put it all back together, I need to get the air out of the PM first which I...

I need to get my self a double flaring tool to do some brake line work. Are the stock lines standard/english or metric? I know stupid question I think they are 3/16 OD. Any recommendations on what kind of double flaring tool is good for these brake lines? thanks, Matt

I've got a fairly mild combo, but I do have 50lb injectors that I could put in. Future upgrades to the turbo/engine may be in the cards, but for now would it be wrong to put the 50s in? I would get a custom chip - probably turbo tweak. thanks, Matt

Recently upgraded the brakes. Baer on the front. New drums, wheel cylinders (S-10), shoes (big soft) on the rear. After some break-in period, it's obvious to me that the rears lock up first. My options are (the way I understand it): 1. Put the old wheel cylinders back in 2. Add an...

Just changed brake components, and bled brakes 3 times before finally getting it right (brakes "feel" good now). Did a test drive for about 10 minutes and all checked good. Today I was out for a little longer drive and after 15 minutes, I could hear -hissing- from the PM when foot not on...

Got this over in brakes area, but looking to accomplish tomorrow... Just put new front disks/rotors on as well as new rear wheel cylinders. Now, let me get this straight.... Pump pedal 10-15 times with the key not in. Uncover reservoirs. Empty PM side (turkey baster??). Then do the...

I've done some searching but haven't been able to find out: 1. If you can remove the studs (rear) with the axles on the car, and 2. How to do it. I've got new studs I could get them on with the axles in the car but don't know how to 'safely' get the old studs off. Any...

I was adding some zylene to my tank when the tip of my funnel went plop! I didn't even realize that there was two pieces to it. About a 2 inch piece of plastic went right in and it's not stuck in the elbow either. Am I done driving? Do I need to drain the whole tank and go in and get it...

Finally installed a scanmaster. Took the car out for a spin, seems to be running great. First time at WOT I registered 7.0 peak on the knock retard with 785 on the O2. Tried it one more time and peaked at 14.0 KR (yikes) and 685 on the O2. Everything felt and sounded good. Don't know if the...