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Original paint in excellent condition, 3" downpipe, upgraded TE44 turbo, LS1 MAF, MAF translator and wiring harness, 60# Motron injectors, Turbo Tweak 93 octane street chip, Excellent interior. Nitto drag radials, progressive rear springs. Very nice car. Asking $19,500.

I have a set of 4 stock GN wheels with old tires mounted that I bought to use as cores to have them rebuilt. I'm not going to do that now so they are for sale. They are actually in pretty good condition with a few small spots of rust on the edge of a couple rims, and one has two gouges, all on...

I'm sure this has been discussed, but I couldn't really find an answer searching the archives. For my street car, running 60Lb injectors, LS1 MAF, RJC power plate, 3" downpipe, Hooker exhaust, no cat, adjustable boost controller; what would be the best to use be able to run more boost? A...

I was just reading an article about F.A.S.T. (Factory Appearance Stock Tire) racing, and the fastest guys are running 60's and 70's muscle cars that look totally stock in the low 10's. I think the newest cars that can run are 1973. If you could run a Turbo Regal in F.A.S.T. what kind of times do...

The stock wheels weren't on my car when I bought it. I picked up some stock wheels that I'm going to have rebuilt and some center caps. Since I've never had them on the car, I don't know how the metal rings should look. I've accumulated several nice caps, but on some, the little pointed tabs on...

I went to reset the trip odometer in my 86 GN and noticed that it changes, but won't reset to 0. It will end up at 360 or 240 or something like that. It records miles from where it resets, but you can't reset it to 0. Anyone have a similar issue or any experience fixing these? I'd be game to...

But you knew that already. Here's a story that you may find interesting, even though it has nothing to do with Turbo Buicks. My nephew proudly brought over his new (170 mile used) 2008 Chevy Cobalt SS bought from a local Chevy dealer a few weeks ago. It was sold to him as barely used, with full...

I have an original paint '86 GN. Did the factory use basecoat and clear or is it single stage? It's in really great shape with only a few very minor surface scratches. I tired using a gentle polish to remove them and it does nothing, as if the paint is rock hard. Any suggestions? Thanks.

I bought a new coil pack and ignition module. They came in separate boxes and need to be assembled. I've got the wiring diagram, so no problem there. But looking at them, the connector tabs on the coil pack will extend into the insulation goo or whatever it is inside the ignition module. When I...

I don't often drive in my son's 86 GN, but did recently and thought the engine seemed to run a bit rough compared to my V8. I've heard V6's run less smoothly, but was just wondering if this is normal. The car runs very strong with good boost (he runs 16-18lbs.) and no knock at all on 100 octane...

I have a '97 Formula WS6 (1 of 473 made in 1997) that I'd like to trade for a GN or T-Type. Car has 57800 miles and is in mint condition. Procharger P1SC with twin intercoolers and 12 rib pulleys (no slip), subframe connectors, long tubes, Borla, built trans with 3000 stall. Black Corvette ZR1...

I got my recovered visors back from Jax last week and they look great. However, I went to install them a few minutes ago, and both are identical, instead of mirror images (I do not have the vanity mirror). So if i put them on, the screw will be facing up on one and down on the other. I have...

A few weeks ago I decided to replace the brake fluid on my 86 GN. Although the brakes worked fine, the fluid looked brown, I know it was old and the brake pedal was soft. For all I know it might be original. I still have the Power Master, and I bled them like regular brakes. I pushed about 2...

There's nothing wrong with my brakes, but I want to change the fluid because I know it's old. I've searched the forum and found a lot of references to bleeding the powermaster along with warnings about brake fluid spraying (don't want that!); turning the ignition on etc. Can't I simply bleed...

I ordered an ABS headliner and visors from, Poston's for my son's '86 GN on April 13th. They charged my MC for both on April 14th. It included $53.20 shipping. - Hadn't heard anything so I called on April 25th and was told it was on it's way. - Called again on May 2nd and was told it shipped...

I'm replacing my headliner and had a hard time finding clips for the the rear window molding. I found a supplier on E-Bay who advertises them as "78 -88 Chevy El Camino headliner garnish clips". They looked the same, so I bought them. Just got them and they are exactly the same. At a great price...

Broken power antenna.. pulled it out...same old story - broken nylon cable. I read an old post where a guy replaced the nylon with a weed wacker cable. It got me to thinking. The nylon is held into a metal sleeve by 4 indents , two on either side of where the nylon is slipped into the metal...

My antenna is stuck in the up position. I think I read that you need to lower it to be able to remove it. My motor runs when I connect the lead, so I thought I might be able to push it down with the motor running, but no luck, it won't budge. Any thoughts? Do I need to lower it to get it...

I plan to put a 60000 btu natural gas forced air heater in my 3 car garage; the kind that hangs from the ceiling. I got a quote from a very reputable contractor in my area of $1900. This includes the heater, programmable thermostat, and running new gas and electric lines. Also he is venting it...

I had my driver's side door panel off and found the build sheet taped inside. My question is, should I leave it there, or take it out and keep it safe; or make a copy and put it back?