WOT correction OFF with Alky?

Cutting back ground straps is an old street racers trick that I used to do way back in the 70s. Make sure that when you cut back the strap that you leave a square end and sharp edges at the end of the strap. SHARP edges is very, very important. The sharp edge makes it easier for the spark to jump the gap. Cut, then use a spark plug file to finish off the end.
I sure hope you can find a model of plug that you can use with your model of heads. It gets old real quick having to cut back ground straps.

No issue with creating a hot spot with a sharp edge?
 
this really is a great thread guys, wish i had some input but i'll take notes from the experts on this one :)
 
No issue with creating a hot spot with a sharp edge?
When the ground strap is short enough to not allow too much heat to build up on the end of the strap, the sharp edge is of no concern. The sharp edge is very, very important from the standpoint of making it as easy as possible for the spark to jump the gap. Even the slightest rounding of the edge will affect KV requirement.
I try to line up the sharp edge of the ground strap to the sharp edge of the center electrode. That is the best scenario to have from an 'ease of spark gap jumping' standpoint.
 
I would not get too carried away with trying to make sure every drop of alcohol becomes vaporized before it enters the cylinder. There is a large advantage to having some of the alcohol still in liquid (atomized) form inside the cylinder during compression and even during combustion!
The trick is to make that happen while maintaining equal distribution to each cylinder. Port injection is the only sure fire way. Any other way is crossing fingers and knocking on wood. Especially for fellas that are on the edge.
 
Think about this question. Why did the manufacturers switch from carburetors and throttle body injection to port injection?
 
I would not get too carried away with trying to make sure every drop of alcohol becomes vaporized before it enters the cylinder. There is a large advantage to having some of the alcohol still in liquid (atomized) form inside the cylinder during compression and even during combustion!
The trick is to make that happen while maintaining equal distribution to each cylinder. Port injection is the only sure fire way. Any other way is crossing fingers and knocking on wood. Especially for fellas that are on the edge.

10-4!
 
question- if you are port injection alky and its not in synch with injector sequence can this cause the alky to puddle on top of the intake valve because its spraying while the valve is closed?
 
Think about this question. Why did the manufacturers switch from carburetors and throttle body injection to port injection?

With that said it pretty much sums it up. I will be working on a way to port inject. For good insurance if for anything else.

Thanks again for all the great posts!

RL
 
question- if you are port injection alky and its not in synch with injector sequence can this cause the alky to puddle on top of the intake valve because its spraying while the valve is closed?
That's a fair question. What some people may not realize is that typical non-sequential fuel injection or batch fire injection injects fuel into each intake port twice during 2 crankshaft revolutions. Batch is also the most typically used fuel injection strategy used in drag racing. When you have to inject large amounts of fuel, it's very hard to inject the whole quantity during just the intake stroke.
Mechanical fuel injection, which is the type that my aux fuel system is, injects fuel into the intake port in a constant stream. Similar to what you would be doing with your methanol injection. The power of my engine actually perks up when the aux fuel system comes online. So the 'puddling' doesn't seem to be hurting a thing.
 
Also, I am injecting a lot more fuel through my constant flow aux fueling system than any of you will be doing with a smaller methanol injection system.
 
With that said it pretty much sums it up. I will be working on a way to port inject. For good insurance if for anything else.

Thanks again for all the great posts!

RL
A second set of regular injectors with the wiring tied in to the OE injectors that way the firing order can be matched kinda like "turbo1dr"'s set up but running at the same time, VS the boost deactivating one and activating another the boost would JUST activate the alcohol set.
 
I don't have it open yet. I know #1 is completely dead and pushing out oil. #2 has compression but is pushing out oil as well. The rest are ok. :rolleyes:
When I pulled #1 plug the porcelain was laying on the ground strap and saturated with oil.

Dual nozzle alky car set up with a gen2. Alky gain on 5. AFR tracking off.

Happened on the e-way. Cruising along on a cool night. I would imagine the intercooler was a refrigerator by itself. PTE SLIC. Not sure how long or hard he got into it. Never get the true story but I can imagine.

The cold ambient temps combined with a wind chill makes for disaster. Specially dual nozzle. It's too cold. Can't vaporize. . As alky is sprayed the temperature quickly crosses the threshold of vaporization. Liquid alky rides the plenum like a roller coaster right into the back of the intake. Intakes were not designed to distribute liquid fuel.

Like others have said, AFR tracking has nothing to do with it.

RL
 
Abuse it you loose it. Its amazing how it happens "just changing lanes" or something like that. How much boost was the car set up at?
 
The time it usually takes from what ive seen is 8-10 seconds. Just long enough for the leanest cylinder to get too hot. May not show knock retard either. Doesnt seem to happen till your over 60lbs/min either.
 
If there is no datalog of fuel pressure and airfuel. There really is no proof.

I went through 4 head gaskets on my TTA over a stupid fuel pump relay. Oh and it killed the #2 head gasket, The #1, the #3, and the #6. Datalog caught the fuel pressure dropping.. eventually leading to cutting open the the FP relay and seeing its contacts burned.

Could have also been a combination of conditions. Like the alcohol line being dry and not purged, having a twin nozzle setup on a car that doesnt make the steam(11-12 second car), low on fuel in gas tank, fuel pump overheated/dying, etc. With a SLIC there is way more heat than a front mount. You have the 160+ degree's coming of the radiator hitting the shroud and tanks on the IC. And there is no way to puddle liquid on a Buick. Not with a mist nozzle at boost.

This has been said a zillion times. Use the methanol for knock suppression. Not an arbitrairy amount of fuel. If your simply cranking in methanol flooding the motor you will reap what you sow. Anyone who orders a twin nozzle from me gets the 50 questions as to WHY???? they think/know its needed. Not saying that this is what happened on this particular case, but data will show the issue. This also goes for cars set at 26+ PSI boost.. you have to be on your game when the motor is cranked up. Game as in gas tank full, lines purged, engine up to operating temp, eye on knock guage, monitoring engine performance, etc. Think of it like a Pitbull on a loose leash. Your going to get bit unless you keep an eye on the situation. Dont want to worry about it.. drop the boost to a more "I can make mistakes level" like 20-22.

Post pics of the carnage. And look for the stupid stuff like a broken plastic line to the 3 bar or fuel pressure regulator.
 
Abuse it you loose it. Its amazing how it happens "just changing lanes" or something like that. How much boost was the car set up at?

Sometimes a stupid broken plastic tube to the 3 bar can create more drama than you could ever think ;) And everyone is out to blame the world with theories :D
 
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