Odd issue, low voltage then scanmaster starts throwing KR readings

S

Superrmario

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2013
So took the car on an hour long drive out to a car show..

On the way home I am watching my volt gauge dip below 11v. Just cruising the Parkway and out of no where on deceleration my scanmaster starts displaying all different KRs. To add, my cam sensor has been making noise the past few days. I have already inquired on a new one.

With all of this said, I pull off the side of the highway. At idle I have 0 KR. If I goose the throttle the scanmaster pins 10 degrees of KR. I call AAA to tow. I allow the car to sit for 20-30 minutes and try to start it. Now everything is working fine. Volts back up to 13v, no KR when I goose it and the cam sensor has quieted down...

Any ideas?

Thx folks!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
The first thing I would do is check the charging system and the battery?

Fuel pumps, like other electrical components, do not like low voltage, so going very lean will give knock retard.

The car sit 30 minutes and the battery will re-junivate a bit, and the alternator charging again will get the car going, but for how long?
 
Nick Micale said:
The first thing I would do is check the charging system and the battery?

Fuel pumps, like other electrical components, do not like low voltage, so going very lean will give knock retard.

The car sit 30 minutes and the battery will re-junivate a bit, and the alternator charging again will get the car going, but for how long?
Click to expand...
Thx Nick.

This is my plan for tomorrow on top a few small oil leaks that need to be rectified.

I figured low voltage would kill fuel delivery. When I was waiting for the tow I just found it odd that I fired her up and all was fine. Volts went back to 13 and no KR. Granted, she was slugging to turn over. I did take it for a trip to the liquor store after the tow dropped us off. Roughly 5 mile drive with absolutely no issues. Friggen weird.

Would a clicky cam sensor cause electrical issues such as low voltage? How Bout oil leak onto the knock sensor?

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Neither of those will cause low voltage.

When you turn the key on is the "battery" idiot light nice and bright?
 
There's your problem. Unsnap the dash bezel, remove the two screws to expose the bulbs and pull the bulb out. Odds are wiggling it will make it light up but hitting it wish some scothbite or equivalent should get you back charging for a few years.


The idiots at GM thought it'd be a good idea to install a warning light for the charging system.... the stupid part is if the warning system fails, it will cause the charging system to quit working.
 
earlbrown said:
There's your problem. Unsnap the dash bezel, remove the two screws to expose the bulbs and pull the bulb out. Odds are wiggling it will make it light up but hitting it wish some scothbite or equivalent should get you back charging for a few years.


The idiots at GM thought it'd be a good idea to install a warning light for the charging system.... the stupid part is if the warning system fails, it will cause the charging system to quit working.
Click to expand...
Get the F out.

Wow

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Hey Earl I have thesame problem. My car has a little jumper where the bulb plugs in. Does this mean it will still charge even if the bulb is blown?
 
The easiest way to correct this issue is with Caspers field fix kit.

If you don't mind doing some wiring (please do it correctly, solder and heat shrink), tap into the EGR solenoid PNK/BLK wire and run it to the F terminal on the alternator connector.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Superrmario said:
Get the F out.

Wow
Click to expand...

Yes Wow. My GN has stranded me twice and a G*damn Geo Tracker tried it's best to strand me halfway from here to Florida a month ago over that stupid ass light.

If I ever meet the guy that designed that clusterfuck of a 'warning system' he's better hope he doesn't have a trophy wife (and/or daughter(s)) that he loves.
 
earlbrown said:
Yes Wow. My GN has stranded me twice and a G*damn Geo Tracker tried it's best to strand me halfway from here to Florida a month ago over that stupid ass light.

If I ever meet the guy that designed that clusterfuck of a 'warning system' he's better hope he doesn't have a trophy wife (and/or daughter(s)) that he loves.
Click to expand...
Lmao

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
If the bulb blows you just need to give the car a free rev in neutral and the alt will start charging

Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk
 
As a follow up yesterday, I got into the car and fired her up sure as shit the gauge went down to 11v.

I took my palm and whacked the top of the gauge panel. Voltage light went on briefly along with the alternator whining. I watched the gauge shoot right back up to 13v.

Taking the bezel out tomorrow as I was working on valve cover leaks today along with rocker arm retainers.
 
earlbrown said:
There's your problem. Unsnap the dash bezel, remove the two screws to expose the bulbs and pull the bulb out. Odds are wiggling it will make it light up but hitting it wish some scothbite or equivalent should get you back charging for a few years.


The idiots at GM thought it'd be a good idea to install a warning light for the charging system.... the stupid part is if the warning system fails, it will cause the charging system to quit working.
Click to expand...
OK is there a way to by pass that light to make the car work correctly? I'm having all the same symptoms described as above and am wondering if it possible the plastic cluster wiring behind the dash is broken? I tried swapping plastic sockets and using a test light and I am definitely getting power but very low volt light indicator?

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
laws69cars said:
OK is there a way to by pass that light to make the car work correctly? I'm having all the same symptoms described as above and am wondering if it possible the plastic cluster wiring behind the dash is broken? I tried swapping plastic sockets and using a test light and I am definitely getting power but very low volt light indicator?
Click to expand...

As I posted above, get Casper's Electronics field fix kit....

Or, wire IGN+ to the F terminal on the alternator connector...

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
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