I was told by a good engine builder is 21 is most for a stock motor for safety. He said you can get away with 23 to 24. If you go more than that it is hit and miss. So go to 29 like my buddy but its only a matter of time. I personally don't have 6 to 10 grand to blow if I blow a motor
What turbo with 60# injectors and E85
- Thread starter oddiesGN
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So in the long run then, does it really matter what turbo you have? Isn't 21# of boost the same with a ta49 or the 6262? I was going to upgrade from my ta49 to the 6262, but if my bottom end can't handle the boost, then whats the reason to go bigger till you do the bottom end. What do you have to do to the bottom end to handle at least 28#.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Then I wonder what the real power difference is if you keep the same set-up and just change turbo a few sizes bigger. This is the first time ever I had a chance to play with turbos, its nothing like my sbc that I'm so use to, but I'll learn.
I will give him a call during the week and ask about whats needed to handle more boost.
Thanks.
Okay, whoever told you about running more than 21lbs on a stock engine is wrong. First of all, it would 100% depend on the turbo. Second of all, stock engines have been all the way into the high 10's, although not completely reliably. I am running 22lbs on a stock turbo with no issue. You can certainly upgrade the turbo. The 6262 is a high 10 turbo, but you cannot push it to its potential without an upgraded bottom end for long. HOWEVER you can run the turbo at lower boost, make it last, and run it till you can afford a built engine. I think 22-23lbs of boost would be perfectly safe and mid to low 11's capable. I am not an expert though. I would wait for someone like Bison to chime in.
GLS1TA was talking safety.. 21 psi is a safe # on a stock motor. Pushing the motor to 25+ is possible yes but anything can happen at that point. Yes you can still break a crank at 21psi just as much as you could at 25. Also that # does not 100% depend on the turbo. As for stock stock motors being in the 10's, stock bottom ends yes they have.. is this safe no.. if you plan on running a stock bottom end in the 10's its only a matter of time.
If a stock engines rotating assembly keeps you from the 6262's potential, is it the same for the ta49? Because for now I can try to max out the ta49 first then rebuild another block to handle the stress. I by no means can afford to do the bottom end and all the other good stuff. Maybe go with a roller cam, champion iron heads, intercooler and injectors for now with my ta49 for now. Never no, maybe this set-up will be good for me and build good power.
What does it take to max out the ta49, is better cam and heads too much for now? Just when I thought I knew what I wanted to buy, theres a wrench thrown into it.
So for now it all boils down to is I can't afford building up the bottom end right now. I need to max out the ta49 first. What do I need to do this? Many will say that you can do this with stock cam and heads, but won't a roller cam and better heads still give you more power with a ta49 over stock stuff? Never thought that it was going to be this hard to figure out.
Thanks everyone for pointing me in the right direction.
Wait.. So a stock turbo could break a crank at 25 PSI? Why is that? I am not sure why the turbo wouldn't dictate whether or not you can run more than 21lbs. I said it would not be reliable to run 10's on a stock engine in my post.
So I double checked the duty cycle it was 50% at 17 lbs of boost and 76% at 21 psi. When it was 40 degrees outside it went to 80 % duty cycle
sorry about the info
Yes it could. Cranks break all the time. Stock buttom end i agree, its not safe to run in the 10's as its just a matter of time before something happens. also there are more variables then just turbo size. However im not going to go off topic here. lets keep this on topic.
Thanks for getting back. I wonder if the duty cycle will be a little lower by using a ta49 instead of the 6131. Sounds like no matter what I do, I need to jump up my injector size. I'd like to go 80s, only because its the easiest route then the 120s, but why do 80s when in 9 months I'll need 120s. Oh well, atleast I'll have alot of extra parts and experience if I keep going smaller till I get there, but way too much work and down time.
Thanks.
I don't think its too much off the topic, because I need help picking a turbo and if the stock bottom end is too weak for alot of boost, then that will help me pick one and what boost is safe. Is it just the crank that is the weak link or is it a little of everything?
Thanks.
GLS1TA gave you the best advice. i would call nick and talk to him about your goals. he has lots of experience with these motors
To answer a few question, I would keep the stock cam unless there is current issues with it. Heads will liven the car up thats for sure and help you reach your goals.
heads, intercooler and injectors like you said is a good start. dont forget a good pump as well as regulator and hotwire. Also a scan tool should be at the top of your list like the power logger
the duty cycle should be close as those turbos are not really that far off from each other. granted each car has its own likes on how much fuel it wants. If you can find a modded ecm you can get 120's and have no issues. eric can burn a chip to run 120's. but you will max out the DW or 340 well before your injectors so that means more pump again
GLS1TA gave you the best advice. i would call nick and talk to him about your goals. he has lots of experience with these motors
To answer a few question, I would keep the stock cam unless there is current issues with it. Heads will liven the car up thats for sure and help you reach your goals.
heads, intercooler and injectors like you said is a good start. dont forget a good pump as well as regulator and hotwire. Also a scan tool should be at the top of your list like the power logger
There is nothing wrong with the stock cam, just figure since its out of the car just to do it. What's a good pump, I have hotwire and scanmaster and I will be for sure getting a power logger.
So you say keep the stock cam unless I have issues, but will the roller 206/210 help at all? I will give Nick a call.
Thanks.
let me ask this, how fast do you want the car to be 5 years from now? crank, pistons, caps moving around etc. lots of weak links on a stock bottom end depending on how much you push it
Who all does the mods on ecm? I looked it up and no one seems to have the drivers in stock to do this.
if the cam is out then sure upgrade if you like. 206/206 would work but nick can set you up with the corrent one. Depending on your goals a DW pump will be great for now
Hard to say. I thought that when I did my first build with this I thought the ta49 was fast enough for about 3 months, now I want more. I know for sure I don't want 10s, easy to say now, but when I get 11's I'll want 10s. But no I say 11 to 11.3 is what I really want. I still like to do alot of in and out of town driving with a/c on. I would like the engine to last awhile 20k + miles atleast. I only will take it to track 1 or 2 time a month and it an 1/8th mile. Alot of street racing.
Thanks
