Fastest v6

Donnie, I had 2 hi-speeds on it but they were both actually open on the starting line. Im also putting 3 hi-speeds with a provision for the 4th one on it for this year. Hopefully with the A/F I can get the mixture somewhere close
to 4 to 1. One problem I see is the A/f only is supposed to read down to 3.76
so Im probably going to be fighting with the unknown for a bit??
My EGTs have been everywhere from 850 to 1380. Seems to like it around 1100 at the 660". I would have to fatten it up to run 1/4 mile. Mike:rolleyes:
 
1100 on the EGT sounds good.
My fuel delivery goes flat line at around 4900 rpm and 232 kPa. It does cause a lean out with rpm and boost. And she likes it too. That may have to change with more boost.

I understand what you mean on the a/f reading. You may want to try out the region below that 3.7. You may not find anymore HP there, but that may be your safe area.

My a/f is ranging from 4.5 (start of lean out) to 4.75 (end of lean out) to one. I'm aftercooling though. When I start going up with the boost, that ratio will be going richer I'm sure or my aftercooler tank will be larger and iced to the max.

I appreciate the feed back of your setups. I hope the specs from my tuneup are helping you guys out. I'm pretty sure some, if not all of it, is useless for your setups, but it allows us all to get a better idea of how the methanol tuneup can be so different for different methanol engine configurations.

Ignition timing is 28 through 32 depending on rpm mainly. 28 closer to peak torque and ramping to 32 by max rpm. Idles at 32, 33. 40 at mid to high rpm/no load region. The ignition table is still basically my startup table. I have yet to seriously start playing with the timing table. Every thing is running so well now, I may just leave well enough alone.

I'm giving out this information to give others food for thought. This will make more sense to those that already have some experience burning methanol. It is by no means meant to be a start up tuneup for anyone who may be wanting to switch to methanol fuel. As I stated in an earlier post, 'every methanol engine is its own animal' and the proper tuneup for each can be just as individual.
 
i got all the pics you sent6 me of your car mike i can e-mail them to you but here are some for everyone thats want to see some top notch fabrication.
 

Attachments

  • bbb3.JPG
    bbb3.JPG
    77.5 KB · Views: 310
  • Engine1_0041_edited.jpg
    Engine1_0041_edited.jpg
    67.7 KB · Views: 319
  • MVC-126F.JPG
    MVC-126F.JPG
    81.9 KB · Views: 305
we are looking to not even start burning threads on the plug we are looking to burn the strap and most of the face but thats for the time being we never weree able to read air/ fuel low enough till just now. b ut qwe would flate line .62 lamb. then try to read plugs. the new xfi we feel is going to give us a big help in getting tune better
 
Thanks for posting my pics!!! Send them back to me an I will save them on a disc. Im ready to come down there and watch you test!!! Expecting 10-12" of snow today/tomorrow:eek: . Ive had enough!!!!
BTW nice shop Im jealous, and I like the 6 decal. I need to put one on mine,
and my trailer , where did you get it ?? Mike:cool:
 
we are looking to not even start burning threads on the plug we are looking to burn the strap and most of the face but thats for the time being we never weree able to read air/ fuel low enough till just now. b ut qwe would flate line .62 lamb. then try to read plugs. the new xfi we feel is going to give us a big help in getting tune better

That sounds good. I'm coloring halfway back on a full standard ground strap and the full face and a little into the first thread. I'm using the hottest heat range for the type plug. Iridium. I'm still using waste spark ignition with a lot of cam overlap.

How much of the XFI system are you using? Total engine control? Timing and fuel? If so, you will love it. No more limitations.

Blown V6. The dragster looks cool!
Turbodragster. Post some recent pics.
 
Blown V6. You noted that your reaching 140-150 by the 660'. Is it just reaching that temp as you come to the 660' or is it reaching that temp sometime before the 660' and then holding that temp until the 660'?

What different percentages have you tried with the fuel feed splits? I'm talking about the before and after blower. What were the results?

The amount of spark lead you're having to use can be a sign of inadequate vaporization by the time of the spark event. The lack of vaporization can also explain why you're having to use such a low CR. Without a high percentage of the fuel vaporizing by the time for ignition, you're missing out on that much more cooling to counter the adiabatic heating of the mixture during compression. Your solution being to lower the CR. I would suggest that the solution is to work on the percentage split of your fuel feed, a/f ratio and most importantly, better atomization of the fuel during the intake cycle. What fuel pressures are you using? Nozzle designs?

If you can do a better job of cooling the charge through the compression cycle by improved vaporization during the intake AND compression cycle you should be able to come up on the CR to further improve adiabatic heating through the compression cycle and improve fuel vaporization in that cycle. Heat does improve vaporization, but you want the heat being applied rather quickly. Not spread out through the intake AND compression cycle. The better atomized the fuel is in the intake, the better chance that more will vaporize when you want it too. During the compression cycle. This would also allow a lower bsfc depending on just how bad the fuel atomization problem is.

Another symptom of inadequate vaporization by the time of ignition is having to go richer to stave off lean burn symptoms, such as backfires. Even though you may already be using a very rich mixture, if not enough has vaporized by ignition time, less fuel is actually available for the combustion process. The fuel must be vaporized to be used for combustion. Most of the fuel that is not vaporized by the time of ignition will only be along for the ride and will not contribute to power. An outcome of this situation can be melted pistons even with very rich mixtures. Check your intake port velocity numbers also. A higher relative port velocity will promote better atomization through friction and chaos, and hence be closer to vaporizing. I think that is one of the main reasons I've been so lucky burning methanol with my small port M&A heads. My port velocities are not out of range for the stroke and rpm I'm running, but if I were using Stage II heads? I would guess that I would need to rev the engine pretty high to get the same port velocity numbers I'm getting with the M&As.

Low port velocity numbers mean more fuel fallout with methanol and less chance of vaporization.

Long cams can actually promote chaos and atomization in the intake port from the reversion that is characteristic of long cams. Some report an alcohol engine with a long cam having better idle qualities than the same on gasoline.

More food for thought.
 
GM was feeling the HEAT from Chevy. Buick is not supposed to be dominate. In NASCAR Busch Series, Buicks were dominate with their NA Stage V6 motors. Santavy and his Engineers were on the verge of dominating IMSA with technology learned from working with Ingersoll. Buick was already dominating CART and the Indy 500.

The buick's was excellent in qualifying. But they had a hard time finishing the race..:( :(
 
Donnie, I cant remember all your questions but I use Waterman HVT nozzles
which are supposed to be the best at vaporizing the fuel. It leaves the starting line at about 150 Psi and goes up from there to over 200 psi:eek:
I burn the plugs anywhere from not at all (25 runs and no plating discolor) to
burning the threads 3 deep. None of this seems to make much difference
except timing!!! It likes timing!!! Mike:cool:
 
this pic of the engine is close to recent we changed all the hoses to the erls black fittings and hose and we are no longer spraying alky in the intake tubes
 

Attachments

  • l_e4071ffd7e8893bd7d6228434cf0707f.jpg
    l_e4071ffd7e8893bd7d6228434cf0707f.jpg
    38.6 KB · Views: 269
  • l_ef1d3917c25ce9555a4bdffe7196dd3c.jpg
    l_ef1d3917c25ce9555a4bdffe7196dd3c.jpg
    33.1 KB · Views: 272
  • Picture 042.jpg
    Picture 042.jpg
    86.9 KB · Views: 279
Now thats what Im talkin about!!! I love the 6 and the GNX decal , I want one tooooooo Mike:cool:
 
LOL. Yeah the GNX sticker got me. I would think spraying in the tubes might have presented a distribution problem. Not to mention all that mixture waiting for an intake backfire. Yoikes.

Is that a NOS solenoid I see sitting behind the doghouse?
Do you run the NOPI unlimited rail class? If not, you should be. They have a nice runway contest.:D

OK. I've got to polish my exhaust pipe now. Looks nice.
 
Donnie, I cant remember all your questions but I use Waterman HVT nozzles
which are supposed to be the best at vaporizing the fuel. It leaves the starting line at about 150 Psi and goes up from there to over 200 psi:eek:
I burn the plugs anywhere from not at all (25 runs and no plating discolor) to
burning the threads 3 deep. None of this seems to make much difference
except timing!!! It likes timing!!! Mike:cool:

Mike. What about the intake temp question? That might be an important one to let you know how your vaporization is doing through the blower.
 
Intake temps rise steadly the entire pass. On occasion I have stretched it out to around 1000' and I believe the temps were around 175-180. I have been experimenting with different nozzle size/location to lower the temps,
but with limited sucess. Im thinking that 60# of boost and a full 1/4 mile pull is going to put it well into the 200+ degrees. Mike:cool:
 
Intake temps rise steadly the entire pass. On occasion I have stretched it out to around 1000' and I believe the temps were around 175-180. I have been experimenting with different nozzle size/location to lower the temps,
but with limited sucess. Im thinking that 60# of boost and a full 1/4 mile pull is going to put it well into the 200+ degrees. Mike:cool:

When the intake temps reach around 149F, does it seem to hover there for a short time before started to ramp up further?

I've heard that there is a critical intake temperature where power drops off quickly. I believe it's around or over 220F. Another thing to think about. The top end lean out that many have in their setup is to bring the mixture quality more in line as the intake temperature rises through the run. More intake temp, less air density, less fuel required. That's another reason why the lean out is usually delayed until the top end. They keep it rich at the beginning of the run to provide intake cooling, to try to delay the inevitable intake temp rise. That way, by the end of the run, the intake temp is not TOO high.
 
we ran a couple nopi events in 05 but thats when we were in florida. they then had noflorida races in 06 or 07 so we wrote them off but now we are in SC we might hit some of those events. and yes thats what the selinoid was for wwe had it come on with a timmer to spray more fuel we are not doing it any more we got 240lb injectors now so we control it alll with the fast
 
Top