Best ignition setup to run

I can tell you that the more secondary load you demand from the EM system, the more voltage you will get. To the point that you'd better have some dang good plug wires to keep secondary leakage under control.

I run small plug gaps (.020") not because I have to inorder to control any missing problem. I do it to keep the seconday voltage under control. I could (and have) run larger gaps, but then I have to worry about wearing out the secondary leads.

What plug wires (secondary leads) do you run? The Magnecor stuff is supposed to handle really high loads. At least that's what their literature indicates.

Bob
 
Just testing the waters. What kindof ignition r u guys running in ur low 10sec high 9sec street driving TR. My buildup is in my description at the bottom. Estimating to make around 700+hp. Thanx to all that reply

you basically have my daughters set up on her STREET car she races every now and then 9.94 @ 138+ (street and race trim) .. Bison hit the nail on the head!! The answer to the original question imo is the stock coil setup with good wires and tight gapped AC or Autolite plugs. Why complicate a 700hp application with more than needed and wasted $. Low 10's high 9's. Come on be realistic. No more than stock is needed

keep it simple and enjoy the car.. Oh I do have a buddy with an Electromotive set up in his Chebby.. He loves it..:cool:
 
What plug wires (secondary leads) do you run? The Magnecor stuff is supposed to handle really high loads. At least that's what their literature indicates.

Bob
I run 10mm Magnecor. They've lasted quite a few years now.
 
you basically have my daughters set up on her STREET car she races every now and then 9.94 @ 138+ (street and race trim) .. Bison hit the nail on the head!! The answer to the original question imo is the stock coil setup with good wires and tight gapped AC or Autolite plugs. Why complicate a 700hp application with more than needed and wasted $. Low 10's high 9's. Come on be realistic. No more than stock is needed

keep it simple and enjoy the car.. Oh I do have a buddy with an Electromotive set up in his Chebby.. He loves it..:cool:

100% agreed.

Additionally, good grounds, alternator putting out good voltage, all maintenance up to date. For a street-ish car this is all you need.

When you get into 2-stepping and other 'tricks' for staging, then fancier stuff may help.

Bob
 
well, the engine still runs if you unplug it......

The cam sensor simply identifies the firing order. The EM system does not need it because of the gap in the crank sensor wheel, it can find #1 with that.

The stock ECM triggers the spark based on a time delay from the crank sensor pulse. The EM system just has more pulses, so it can be more precise.

Bob

Engine starts and you unplug I understand. I assume it locks on and goes. Why does the stock ECM go out of time when the cam signal changes while the engine is running?
 
If you don't want to spend the cash, the stock one will do. I've been running it for awhile now although I hope to switch to a dist just to gain a decent and reliable 2-step.

Yep was working great at the BPG;) Cant see any reason you would want something else.
 
if the cam sensor is mis-aligned, or failing, the pulses will occur at the wrong spot and mis-identify which cylinder is #1.

The Cam sensor goes 2 places: ignition module where it sets up the sequencer, and the ECM where is sets up the sequential injection.

The ignition module just fires the coils in sequence. Its not a 'smart' module.



The ECM just uses the cam sensor to synchronize the sequential injection. When the cam sensor is unplugged, the ECM contimues to run sequential for a second or 2, then reverts to batch fire.

The cam sensor does not set the 'timing' of anything.

Bob
 
if the cam sensor is mis-aligned, or failing, the pulses will occur at the wrong spot and mis-identify which cylinder is #1.

The Cam sensor goes 2 places: ignition module where it sets up the sequencer, and the ECM where is sets up the sequential injection.

The ignition module just fires the coils in sequence. Its not a 'smart' module.

Bob

So would that not be re sync once every 720 deg?
 
only in the sense of ensuring the correct coil is fired. The ignition timing is only controlled by the crank sensor.
So cam sensor would need to float 120deg out to have any affect on timing. Cause if the wrong coil fires I would indeed think that was timing issue.
 
If the cam sensor is relied upon to sync #1 and sync the injector events, how accurate can it be with a stretched and slapping timing chain, camshaft endplay movement, and the up and down shaft endplay movement of the cam sensor itself?

I'm still a little unclear about why 2 step rev limiting doesn't work with the stock setup. Where is the sync being lost and why?
 
WOW!!!!! :eek: this took off better than I thought it would. All the info has made me cross eyed. Half the stuff mentioned is way to complex for me. It looks like I will be staying with the OEM ignition. Figure on buying new AC coil and module. I just wanted to c if there was a way to get ride of waste spark without going dist. and free up a couple extra ponies in the process. I really appreciate all the input from everyone. U guys really know ur turbo cars and for guys like me that don't, it makes it very comforting to know that we can count on board members to help out.

Thanx to all
 
Yep was working great at the BPG;) Cant see any reason you would want something else.

It happens.

Says one competitor to another.

Lonnie is talking about what happened to me at the BPG race. At 7000 rpm, the reluctor ring in the cam sensor came loose and the car went BANG! Sounded like the end of the world inside of the car. Probably was the beginning of the end of my stock block (happened twice). RJC sells a kit to fix this problem. I've seen it three times in one year. Another buddy popped a head gasket due to this failure in the fall and yesterday I rescued another buddy that was stranded on the side of the road due to this problem.
 
WOW!!!!! :eek: this took off better than I thought it would. All the info has made me cross eyed. Half the stuff mentioned is way to complex for me. It looks like I will be staying with the OEM ignition. Figure on buying new AC coil and module. I just wanted to c if there was a way to get ride of waste spark without going dist. and free up a couple extra ponies in the process. I really appreciate all the input from everyone. U guys really know ur turbo cars and for guys like me that don't, it makes it very comforting to know that we can count on board members to help out.

Thanx to all

I understand that the waste spark does not rob any horsepower.
 
WOW!!!!! :eek: this took off better than I thought it would. All the info has made me cross eyed. Half the stuff mentioned is way to complex for me. It looks like I will be staying with the OEM ignition. Figure on buying new AC coil and module. I just wanted to c if there was a way to get ride of waste spark without going dist. and free up a couple extra ponies in the process. I really appreciate all the input from everyone. U guys really know ur turbo cars and for guys like me that don't, it makes it very comforting to know that we can count on board members to help out.

Thanx to all


It will work just fine for ya. But now you know there are other options. Good luck.
 
If the cam sensor is relied upon to sync #1 and sync the injector events, how accurate can it be with a stretched and slapping timing chain, camshaft endplay movement, and the up and down shaft endplay movement of the cam sensor itself?

I'm still a little unclear about why 2 step rev limiting doesn't work with the stock setup. Where is the sync being lost and why?

I think the way Bob explained it. The cam sensor only starts the correct coil. After that the Module then knows how to sequence and then only needs crank signal. Not quite what I think I am seeing.

The stock module when you cut EST it will lose cam sync and coils will fire out of sync till it sees cam signal again. No way you can do it with out cutting coils cant be done threw the module. I got by with it for years using the Gen7 it seemed to work great till you were on the 2 step too long. Cal had mentioned it to me once that it could happen. We had a couple guys in our Gen7 group that year hurt engines that year because of it. Myself, Steve,Chris were just lucky I guess but it worked flawless for us.
 
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