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I would double check your code...Cam sensor controls fuel injector timing. Car will not start without it, but would run if disconnect it after starting or it went bad while driving. Try running some race gas to verify if it isn't false knock. Out of adjustment Cam sensor causes backfires...

My ATR double pumper developed a similiar problem. Had it for 4 or so seasons, then it wouldn't increase fuel pressure during boost. I pulled the pump and discovered the wire's which were pigtailed and soldered had become badly corroded. The heat shrink also fell off and was floating in the...

I hear that..I'm running 20 psi w/ extender chip. Its more than enough on the street. Can't keep the thing straight. Its worse now with the cold weather up hear in Chicago. Had to put it away before I wreck it.

Nice Combo..with the Alky you'll probably be able to add a bit more boost depending on how much timing your running.

Do Not use synthetic oils during the initial "break in". Use conventional oils only. Lots of posts on "what to run". I like Mobil 1 15w50 which gives a little bit higher PSI at hot idle.

No, do not switch to HD adjustable wastegate. There for higher boost levels in the 20# plus range. Unless your getting alot knock, I wouldn't worry about it.

Yes, I have them mounted on my spare pair of Kirbans. I just use them for the track. Don't like running them full time as they wear quickly and feel sloppy in turns. But they work pretty good at the track pulled a best of 1.8's instead of 2.1's with the street tires.

RJC Boost Controller......very simple and very effective.

Kenne Bell everything car...well a good possiblity is the IAC valve being out of adjustment. I would loose that chip and get one burned for those injectors and combo. Did you get an adjustable fuel regulator ? If not get one, it helps tune. Also, invest in a scan tool. They can really help sort...

My VDO reads very similiar using Mobil 10w30. 22PSI hot idle, 60 cold start and it runs up to 40 PSI or so when you hit the gas. I think this is fairly typical with these cars.

Most likely just the bearing has gone south. Its a common bearing and can easily be re-placed. I've seen a thread on this before. DO a search. If you want a new one, I believe Postons has it.

Just a 13/16 or 7/8" (I forget) regular deep socket. Bring a spark plug with you to the hardware store just in case. I usually spray a little penetrating oil (liquid wrench or similiar) on the rear passenger side plug only. Try using a swivel elbow right off the socket with a long extension...

Take a look at the cranksensor, see if its damaged or if the interupter ring is rubbing in the sensors groove. If you can get the car running unplug the cam sensor while its running. If the motor runs better you found the problem. Many members keep an extra "good" coil pack and ingnition module...

It could be coil pack/ Ignition module. But my experience's with those failures usual are not that severe. They tend to fail gradually with backfires, misses, etc. I would suspect a bad cranksensor and/or cam sensor. Mass Air Sensors can also cause similiar problems. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.

How about doing it yourself...This is what I used, super simple and is amazing stuff. http://www.rustbullet.com

I think ANS has a better handle on the turbo 3.8's but I don't blame your for not wanting to deal with them. I did see a post from another board member who had some motors built including his GN at Motion Dynamics. He was very happy with there work. Might be worth giving them a call or...

ANS in Melrose Park..they have been specializing Turbo Buicks as long as anyone. They advertise on this website. Heard nothing but good things about them.

My gas lines that connect from the frame up to the regulator and return feed dry rotted. They would leak as the fuel pressure increased during boost. Being that these cars are 17 years old +, you might want to change them as it is a possible fire hazard.

I didn't get any codes either..crank sensor was $30. Cam sensor is more like $130. But first crawl under the car and see if the interupter is rubbing on the sensor. Put a breaker bar with 1-1/4 socket on the crank pully bolt. Rotate the engine and watch to see if there's contact. I hate to...

Boy, that really is starting to sound like the Crank sensor or Cam sensor. I recently had my crank sensor come loose and hit the interupter disk. The car stumbled and backfired, idle rpm went to 1400. After I replaced the crank sensor, it idled fine but got alot KR with very little boost...