Whats "Normal" Operating Temp Oil PSI

[WHTTRSH]

I do I have a catch can setup on top of the breathers. Valve covers are coming off right now and having baffles welded in this afternoon. I'm going to block off the original ports and just have the two breathers w baffles.

 

[WHTTRSH]

This is a better pic that shows the breather and the hose for the catch can. You guys agree I don't need both? Running just the breathers is good enough?

 

[TurboBuRick]

This is how I set up valve cover catch.

 

[WHTTRSH]

Thanks for that. That looks very nice. Ill do the same. -10AN?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Actually -12
Jack Cotton has the valve cover adapters that fit into grommets. No welding or valve cover removal required.

 

[Nick Micale]

As long as the oil pressure resounds quickly with RPM I would not worry about it. I would run Mobile1 15w-50. It's a much better oil than VR-1 IMO!...........

Please elaborate if you can why Mobil 1 is "much better" than VR-1?

In many years on the board I have never received a factual answer.

I have a list of reasons NOT to run Mobil 1.

No. 1 A full synthetic oil is cohesive, not adhesive like normal oil. After the engine sits for a couple days, synthetic will drain down off the cylinder wall and bearings. Regular oil with stay in place indefinitely.

After dis-assembling 1000's of engines it is simple to tell the difference, synthetic is in the pan, but all the internal surfaces are coated if regular oil.

No. 2 The flash point of synthetic oil is ~550 deg. F, regular oil about 500 degrees, no significant value there?

No. 3 Generally the same weight/viscosity the synthetic oil will have a tendency to leak more than regular oil, and will almost always have less oil pressure, and drains like water when changed.

No. 4 The cam and lifters need all the help they can get in a performance build no matter if it is a flat tappet or roller lifters. The added spring pressure and RPM loads on the small needle roller bearings is tremendous in many cases, and unless there is an EP oil or additive, they can and will give up.

No. 5 The price of synthetic oil is more and "they", the ad guys, say it will last longer? In a turbo application oil gets contaminated long before the additives give up in either oil. Oil in a GN is usually done about 2000 miles, and even sooner depending on how much and often in boost.

 

[fastblackracing]

I just took the oil pan off of my engine that has been sitting for 8 months and looking up in the engine from the bottom I could see the oil still clinging to the camshaft and bottoms of the Pistons. Brad penn 10-40.

 

[WHTTRSH]

Brad Penn 20W50 is partial synthetic... This oil ok?

 

[WHTTRSH]

As far as the AN fittings for a TTA stock valve cover goes -12 is way to huge! I'll be running -8AN in the valve covers to a catch can. Plus I'll have those breathers w baffles now. Can't wait to get them on. Sick of oil dripping onto my headers.

 

[ITSAV6]

Have you checked the pcv? If it's bad boost passes though and pressurizes crankcase. Had to install a check valve, tried several and they all leaked boost. My breathers are dry now.

 

[WHTTRSH]

You have a pic of that check valve you installed? I believe I already have a check valve installed. I have a check valve installed onto the rear vacuum line of the vacuum block. It sits right above the 6-7" of the tape measure in this pic

 

[ITSAV6]

I don't have a pic but that's about where it would be. The large line from vac block turn into a 90 deg rubber line and runs down to the pcv valve.

 

[vacuum 6]

My opinion is to run Valvoline 20W-50 oil as this is an expensive performance build.

Our performance engine builds usually have 35-45 PSI oil pressure at operating temp, and as much as 90-100 PSI at start-up. The lowest I see on my race engine after a 9 sec. pass is 35 PSI and back to 50 PSI by the time I return to the pit.

What about WOT oil psi (5-6k)?

 

[bison]

Too much oil pressure will be a common problem with a high volume gear set. I commonly see oil pressure in the 75-80psi range at 6000rpm. Talking hot oil here. As hot as it will ever get during a hit. 10w-30 or 10w-40 or a mix of the two. I've had some cars come through and had to mix in 5w-20 to get the oil pressure down. I'm sure it does a better job of cooling the bearings and Pistons with the lower viscosity oil though I have no direct proof. I even pre-heat the oil on a fresh started engine. Anything to get it flowing faster can only help.


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[007gn]

Please elaborate if you can why Mobil 1 is "much better" than VR-1?

In many years on the board I have never received a factual answer.

I have a list of reasons NOT to run Mobil 1.

No. 1 A full synthetic oil is cohesive, not adhesive like normal oil. After the engine sits for a couple days, synthetic will drain down off the cylinder wall and bearings. Regular oil with stay in place indefinitely.

After dis-assembling 1000's of engines it is simple to tell the difference, synthetic is in the pan, but all the internal surfaces are coated if regular oil.

No. 2 The flash point of synthetic oil is ~550 deg. F, regular oil about 500 degrees, no significant value there?

No. 3 Generally the same weight/viscosity the synthetic oil will have a tendency to leak more than regular oil, and will almost always have less oil pressure, and drains like water when changed.

No. 4 The cam and lifters need all the help they can get in a performance build no matter if it is a flat tappet or roller lifters. The added spring pressure and RPM loads on the small needle roller bearings is tremendous in many cases, and unless there is an EP oil or additive, they can and will give up.

No. 5 The price of synthetic oil is more and "they", the ad guys, say it will last longer? In a turbo application oil gets contaminated long before the additives give up in either oil. Oil in a GN is usually done about 2000 miles, and even sooner depending on how much and often in boost.

Too much oil pressure will be a common problem with a high volume gear set. I commonly see oil pressure in the 75-80psi range at 6000rpm. Talking hot oil here. As hot as it will ever get during a hit. 10w-30 or 10w-40 or a mix of the two. I've had some cars come through and had to mix in 5w-20 to get the oil pressure down. I'm sure it does a better job of cooling the bearings and Pistons with the lower viscosity oil though I have no direct proof. I even pre-heat the oil on a fresh started engine. Anything to get it flowing faster can only help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk