What's FRAM's oil filter# = AC PF52

Instead of the Pure Power I bought a System1 filter to use on my TurboSaver, part number 209-512561.
System 1 Filters
Haven't actually got my engine fired up yet, so I can't report any actual results, but I love the concept:
- easy to disassemble for inspection
- clean it and reuse it - never buy another filter again!
- never have to dispose of used filters
- all metal construction, stainless internals, should last a lifetime
- should perform better than a standard filter with a paper element, low pressure drop and high flow

I bought mine for ~$100 I think (maybe $125) from my local speed shop. Summit or Jegs had them for about the same price, though with shipping (or was it free shipping plus outrageous handling?) it was more. Saw some used units on Ebay as well, but they were going for 2/3-3/4 of a new one, so why not buy new...

And for the guys that change their oil often, the price is equal to what, 15 or so high quality filters? For those guys that buy filters by the case I would think this is a better deal.

I learned about these filters from a BBB buddy of mine, he said there was talk about these things on their board, V8Buick.com - Buick V-8 Performance and Restoration Web Site!!!, and they seemed to like them. He bought one and liked it. I think they use the short one in the stock location, and if the short one is good enough for them, it is good enough for us too. Not sure how well it fits in the stock location on a TR though, someone else will have to figure that out.

John
 
Just for a note i have blown up internally the baldwin b29 race filters also. I have my bypass plug blocked in the oil pump so everything must go though the filter, so if you have done the same mod, beware even the good baldwin filters can't handle a cold start, even with the internal bypass the paper will just tear inside. I also have blown up a canton race filter worth $150 with a special filter heavy steel filter. The purepower is tested to 1000 psi. You would have to call them and see what thread sizes they have. But they don't have a antidrain back valve thats why i suggest use them on a turbo saver because they sit vertical.
 
I looked on the filter for a number, nothing there. ITs just there standard one for passenger cars it has a 13/16-16 thread thats all i know.
 
Oil filters

Finally went through my personal stock of PF52's so I went to Wal Mart to get an AC PF52 oil filter(longer than stock). I guess they quit carrying AC filters! What's the FRAM # that cross references with the 52?

Hi,
I work for Fram filters as the technical manager. There is quite a bit of misinformation here on this site. The best fram to use for street use is the Extended guard filter. It is a 10 dollar filter, maybe 8 at Wallyworld. This filter is 99% efficient and can trap and hold up to 28 grams of dirt. It is a two ply full synthetic glass filter wrapped around a stainless screen. it has a full flow bypass valve and a silicone antidrainback valve.
 
Just for a note i have blown up internally the baldwin b29 race filters also. I have my bypass plug blocked in the oil pump so everything must go though the filter, so if you have done the same mod, beware even the good baldwin filters can't handle a cold start, even with the internal bypass the paper will just tear inside. I also have blown up a canton race filter worth $150 with a special filter heavy steel filter. The purepower is tested to 1000 psi. You would have to call them and see what thread sizes they have. But they don't have a antidrain back valve thats why i suggest use them on a turbo saver because they sit vertical.

If you plug the bypass you must have a filter that either contains a bypass (Fram racing filter) or use a very large Race filter that has the ability to flow whatever your oil pump can put out. This would be an HP6 in Fram. These are regularly used by sprint car drivers, the hold 2qts of oil, have a 11/4" outlet and 500psi burst strength. BTW- Bypassing or blocking off the bypass valve is 1970's thinking. There is simply no reson or benfit to doing this other than blowing up pass car filters.
 
Fram failed your engine?

NO FRAM FILTERS!!!!!!! Those filters cost me a engine. A fresh engine. The filter inside came apart and went throught the engine. My 100 mile motor had to come back out. But its your money. Only wix for me now. And zero issues..

Hello,
I am the technical manager at fram. Did you bypass or remove your filter bypass valve from your oil pump? If you did, you need to use a Fram racing filter with a bypass built in. If you didnt and Fram "ruined' your engine, did your file a claim with fram? We warranty all of our filters and if our filter caused your engine to fail, we would have bought you an engine. Now, if your going to tell the people on this forum you are postive that Fram failed your engine and decided to just eat the cost of a new one, that is really hard to believe. If you have the old filter and documentation of the engine failiure, I can help you file a claim. removing the filter bypass valve is a bad idea on any engine that does not use a racing or high volume filter. It is old school hot rodding trick that has no benefits whatsoever.
 
The use of our cars extends past "street" use. We race them. Now what would be a better filter?
 
The use of our cars extends past "street" use. We race them. Now what would be a better filter?

Use the Fram HPK filter adapter, the HPK6000 filter mount and the 2 qt HP6 filter. The whole setup costs less than 225.00. This setup is regularly used by 800hp sprint cars that run 9000 rpm. That is what I run on my 600hp Mustang stroker with another 250 shot on top. The engine currently has over 100 drag strip passes and 10k street miles and runs pefect.

As a guy who builds plenty of hot rods, including a regal that is driven daily and runs 12.80's, I never understand why people spend a fortune on engines and 3 buck on a oil filter. Summit sells our racing filters for 8 bucks. They are very different than a standard filter. They have higher flow, much thicker tapping plate, burst strength goes from 300psi to 500 psi and they have a built in bypass valve with stainless screen over it for those whi still think it is a good idea to remove the factory bypass valve.
 
Hi,
I work for Fram filters as the technical manager. There is quite a bit of misinformation here on this site. The best fram to use for street use is the Extended guard filter. It is a 10 dollar filter, maybe 8 at Wallyworld. This filter is 99% efficient and can trap and hold up to 28 grams of dirt. It is a two ply full synthetic glass filter wrapped around a stainless screen. it has a full flow bypass valve and a silicone antidrainback valve.

Wow, do I want to talk to you!!!

We've taken the time to cut open a cross-section of oil filters available on the market for use in our engine classes (I teach Automotive Technology at a Community College). The standard fram filters clearly have the LEAST desireable construction of any filter I've found!!! I have not cut open the race versions. But based on what I see inside your standard filters. I will continue to buy WIX.

My own personal experience is that I imploded one of your Fram filters on my Stage 2 race engine. It happened on a warm engine in the burnout box. I dragged oil up to the starting line. Luckily, I shut down before I hurt the engine. I cut that filter open and found the filter element had collapsed upon itself blocking oil flow and blowing out the seal. This happened several years ago, and I still have that filter.

Trust me when I tell you, I am the WORST advertising your company has!!
I am that one unhappy customer who tells everyone about your product!!
I tell every student coming through my program to avoid FRAM oil filters at all costs and I back up my statements using your own products !!!

David Roland
 
SO

which is better..?

A quality racing oil filter?

or a heavy Duty, cleanable/reusable filter?

which will give me better filtration?

A.j.
 
Wow, do I want to talk to you!!!

We've taken the time to cut open a cross-section of oil filters available on the market for use in our engine classes (I teach Automotive Technology at a Community College). The standard fram filters clearly have the LEAST desireable construction of any filter I've found!!! I have not cut open the race versions. But based on what I see inside your standard filters. I will continue to buy WIX.

My own personal experience is that I imploded one of your Fram filters on my Stage 2 race engine. It happened on a warm engine in the burnout box. I dragged oil up to the starting line. Luckily, I shut down before I hurt the engine. I cut that filter open and found the filter element had collapsed upon itself blocking oil flow and blowing out the seal. This happened several years ago, and I still have that filter.

Trust me when I tell you, I am the WORST advertising your company has!!
I am that one unhappy customer who tells everyone about your product!!
I tell every student coming through my program to avoid FRAM oil filters at all costs and I back up my statements using your own products !!!

David Roland

Wow David,
That is really too bad that you would take your experience and use it to promote a falsehood. Is your bypass valve blocked off? Are you running higher than normal oil prssure? if so, why arent you using a racing filter? cutting open a filter tellls you nothing about how much dirt it can trap and hold, we deal in engineering facts, not a very biased opinion. we make racing filters for raing, we do not advertise our least expensive filter as being suitabe for a 9 second race car. I wonder how you would explain to your students all the racers using fram race filters at a typical NHRA or World of Outlaws event? The standard Fram filter you find at retail is a 95% efficient filter and does not belong on a race car.
 
SO

which is better..?

A quality racing oil filter?

or a heavy Duty, cleanable/reusable filter?

which will give me better filtration?

A.j.

depends on how often you plan to change oil, if your oiling system is modified and what you are using the car for. Give me the answers to those questions and I can steer you in the right direction. (with facts, not internet tribal knowledge0
 
I use the vehicle for HEAVY street performance

Oil gets changed once a month regardless of milage. (extreme heat thins oil quickly)

vavoline 10w-40

TA perf external pan pick up oil pump cover stk volume, galleys enlarged to 3/8", average oil pressure around 45lbs hot.

everything else stock.

A.j.
 
Motorking, thank you very much for visiting our board and sharing your knowledge and experience. Like you said, lots of mis-information and bad info has been spread here, and other boards about oiling systems, oil and filters.

For over 30 years I have studied and experienced oils and all the other items that keep our engines alive, and many opinions or statements are very broad and not specific, and do not pertain to the narrow range of use how the vehicle is being operated.

Our turbo engines are "performance" oriented from the factory, and as soon as we modify them, another level of requirements would be needed.

For years now, we have done specific mods to our cars and engines to help make the live longer. I look at 3 levels of performance in the turbo Buicks, street, street/strip and race cars.

In the hundreds of engines we have built, and the many cars we have constructed and modified, we have NOT had a failure due to oiling problems. :)

As I have stated, we, and many other local racers, have used the Fram racing filters with no problems.

In our higher HP and RPM race cars, we use a full-flow filter, some are cleanable stainless, with no by-pass. We by-pass the oil at the pump returning it to the pan so no unfiltered oil gets to the engine or turbo.

For street cars, and street/strip cars, we have specific mods we perform to the oiling system to provide the necessary protection.

Again, thanks for your input. :biggrin:
 
Wow David,
we deal in engineering facts, not a very biased opinion.

And your opinion isn't biased??? Please. Don't treat us like idiots.

There have been enough filter studies done over the years by "independent" entities that have shown just how bad the over the shelf Frams really can be.
Now, as far as fram racing filters are concerned, it's likely a completely different story.
But for those of us that no longer race, and use over the counter filters, you can at least let us make our own decisions and recommendations based on real world expereince, and independent studies.
 
i wonder if Fram has people going around to all of the bigger automotive forums to resurrect 3 year old threads try to do some damage control?
if so, i can only assume it's because sales are down and people are looking to keep their jobs.
and do they need any help? i know how to use google and am very familiar with the process of signing up to automotive forums..

i've never cut an oil filter open just to see what's inside, but i can tell you that a Fram from Wal Mart doesn't feel as heavy as the equivalent Wix part, and just looking at the business end of the filter they look a lot cheaper.
the last AC Delco filter i looked at- a PF52- looked identical to a Fram that was sitting on the same shelf at Walmart not even a foot away. but it was painted blue instead of orange and had an extra dollar tacked onto the price.
the only thing that Fram has going for it is the price and the bedliner they sprayed on it to make it easier to take it off.
 
I use the vehicle for HEAVY street performance

Oil gets changed once a month regardless of milage. (extreme heat thins oil quickly)

vavoline 10w-40

TA perf external pan pick up oil pump cover stk volume, galleys enlarged to 3/8", average oil pressure around 45lbs hot.

everything else stock.

A.j.

AJ,

If you want to use Fram, on your setup I would recommend the Fram HP11 racing filter. That is the equivelant of the PH3980. It does have a built in bypass that opens at 22psi pressure differential. this allows your engine to get oil regardless of whether the meida can pass oil or not. It also has a stainless screen over the bypass to keep chunnks out of your turbo if things do come apart.
Have a great day.:biggrin:
 
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