spooling a T66 turbo with a stock D-5 converter
- Thread starter Race Jace
- Start date
strikeeagle
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2001
Jace,
A couple of questions, if you please. Please forgive me if you've already answered these:
1. I assume you're using an HD wastegate actuator?
2. How do you adjust your controller? With the knurled portion? Does it have to be disconnected from the vacuum tubing to prevent the tubing from twisting (I'd think not)?
3. Doesn't the controller get hot? Do you have to let it cool down before attempting an adjustment, in order to avoid a burn?
4. Even though your controller assists spool-up, wouldn't you agree that it's not a substitute for smaller, lighter, stronger, high stall torque converter? That is, a higher stall converter serves more than one purpose?
That's it, and thank you.
strike
A couple of questions, if you please. Please forgive me if you've already answered these:
1. I assume you're using an HD wastegate actuator?
2. How do you adjust your controller? With the knurled portion? Does it have to be disconnected from the vacuum tubing to prevent the tubing from twisting (I'd think not)?
3. Doesn't the controller get hot? Do you have to let it cool down before attempting an adjustment, in order to avoid a burn?
4. Even though your controller assists spool-up, wouldn't you agree that it's not a substitute for smaller, lighter, stronger, high stall torque converter? That is, a higher stall converter serves more than one purpose?
That's it, and thank you.
strike
Grainger valves come with a steel ball. with these style valves they have steel balls. in a short amount of duty the steel ball developes a "ring" where the brass seat has worn into it. this causes it not to seal and it is usless. Plus the steel ball is heavy and causes poor reaction times durring opening and closing. Ours has a light weight ceramic ball (this is what most of the cost in our controller comes from) it reacts quick. It does not get worn from the seat in fact the more you use it the more the ball "laps" the seat and it actually seals better. this ball won't wear out just don't drop it.
when you get your controller you will notice that there is a pinhole drilled in the 90 deg end. this is a special orficed pressure relief. the size of the hole was determined by countless hours of testing. to big or to small and it doesn't work right.
Strike.
#1 no any type of diaphram activated waste gate
#2you turn the 90 deg end in for more boost. (just puts more preload on the spring)
#3 it is on the intake side of the turbo so it really does not get hot, not any hotter than the intercooler. I have never seen one that has been to hot to adjust with your bare hands.
#4 when choosing a converter efficiency is the key. you want a converter that is as tight as you can get it and still spool the turbo. the looser it is the more it slips and the less you put to the ground
"spooling" and building boost fast from zero are two different things...Jace's 7 to 8 sec "spool" is like waiting for something to happen.........and you lose!
I would think with a '61 something around 3000 stall would be dandy (2800 "may" work)
just depends if you wanna leave on the green at launch boost or not
I would think with a '61 something around 3000 stall would be dandy (2800 "may" work)
just depends if you wanna leave on the green at launch boost or not
this controller won't fix any mismatched components. it was not designed to take the place of a stall converter.
It will however compliment any turbo wastegated system.
If you are getting boost creep even with my controller and you set your WG rod according to the instructions then you are outflowing the WG hole.
It will however compliment any turbo wastegated system.
If you are getting boost creep even with my controller and you set your WG rod according to the instructions then you are outflowing the WG hole.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
I had the opposite, i couldnt get the boost up high enough and was told to stretch the spring, put the same controller on another very similar car and the boost was sky high-
You did set your wastegate LOOSE correct?
BW
You did set your wastegate LOOSE correct?
BW
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
Bri, I need a turbo. Can you hook me up? email me buddy
Bo
Bo
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
TE45a from limit is going on. 2800 stock D5 vertor. We will see what this controller can do till I get a 3200 stall.
Bo
Bo
BlackBandit
God loves Buicks!
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2003
I've been running this type of boost controller for about 2 years now. It does work well and it will make your turbo spool quicker. It can be a pain in the ass to tune sometimes as it does get hot and there is no way to know what the boost is set at untill you hit the gas. This could be eliminated by running a bleeder on the waste gate side of the controller and then setting Race Jaces controller to your minimum boost level and using the bleeder to set your max boost.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
i thought of this earlier since i still use a ELECTRIC boost controller on my car, the boost command /BSTC
if the small hole that RJC uses to bleed off the pressure could be metered and sent back to the solenoid/ s to allow my boost control, then i would be happy-
change the RJC fitting from 2 FITTINGS to 3 FITTINGS so i can stick a hose on the bleed off and still allow my BSTC to give me 0-35 psi of boost control and have quick spoolup
this will be a total control of spool up and electric control of boost creep since the BSTC has 3rd gear knock down built in to it and control with the chip.
i know the RJC will control boost creep, it doesnt work on every car and depends on the chip.
im still working out some details with the two, i know both work VERY well but there already needs to be a hybrid between the two-
Let me know if you can build a bleeder with the "orifice" with a 3rd tit off the side-
I know Fast Eddie Brewer went his fastest with your valve,i loaned one to him and he made the fastest stock turbo pass known to man.
can you help me out?
BW
if the small hole that RJC uses to bleed off the pressure could be metered and sent back to the solenoid/ s to allow my boost control, then i would be happy-
change the RJC fitting from 2 FITTINGS to 3 FITTINGS so i can stick a hose on the bleed off and still allow my BSTC to give me 0-35 psi of boost control and have quick spoolup
this will be a total control of spool up and electric control of boost creep since the BSTC has 3rd gear knock down built in to it and control with the chip.
i know the RJC will control boost creep, it doesnt work on every car and depends on the chip.
im still working out some details with the two, i know both work VERY well but there already needs to be a hybrid between the two-
Let me know if you can build a bleeder with the "orifice" with a 3rd tit off the side-
I know Fast Eddie Brewer went his fastest with your valve,i loaned one to him and he made the fastest stock turbo pass known to man.
can you help me out?
BW
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
Not Avg 6
i do think that the 3 way fitting would work great in our case because we have already purchased the BSTC and would benifit from the quicker spooling with the RJC valve- hopefully Jace will respond if he can make another controller???
i took the RJC valve off my car because i couldnt control the tire spin, IT WORKS on spool up... yet with the RJC i couldnt get my boost past 21psi in first and second, once the convertor locked in 3rd it would peg 27psi of boost and the wastegate was LOOSE- put the valve on Ed Brewers car and immediately he was past 28 psi in first and second?????
Works great on my dads WE4 his is perfect at 20lbs of boost-
Got a call from a buddy today at BG, he turned his valve in all the way and could only muster 20PSI, his car was rich, but he turned the wastegate rod in 7 times to get it back up to 23-24 unlocked.
Next he will stretch the spring to increase the boost, but that didnt help me out on my car....
Would i benefit from reinstalling the factory Y fitting after the RJC bleeder,set the RJC to 15 psi, and use the third tit to send to the BSTC to up the boost from there and still control my 16-28 lbs of boost?
That would work right?
Kinda what BlackBandit just said-
just use the RJC to set the minimum, and use my BSTC to control 16-28 psi electronically...hmmmmmm
Thoughts?
BW
i do think that the 3 way fitting would work great in our case because we have already purchased the BSTC and would benifit from the quicker spooling with the RJC valve- hopefully Jace will respond if he can make another controller???
i took the RJC valve off my car because i couldnt control the tire spin, IT WORKS on spool up... yet with the RJC i couldnt get my boost past 21psi in first and second, once the convertor locked in 3rd it would peg 27psi of boost and the wastegate was LOOSE- put the valve on Ed Brewers car and immediately he was past 28 psi in first and second?????Works great on my dads WE4 his is perfect at 20lbs of boost-
Got a call from a buddy today at BG, he turned his valve in all the way and could only muster 20PSI, his car was rich, but he turned the wastegate rod in 7 times to get it back up to 23-24 unlocked.
Next he will stretch the spring to increase the boost, but that didnt help me out on my car....
Would i benefit from reinstalling the factory Y fitting after the RJC bleeder,set the RJC to 15 psi, and use the third tit to send to the BSTC to up the boost from there and still control my 16-28 lbs of boost?
That would work right?
Kinda what BlackBandit just said-
just use the RJC to set the minimum, and use my BSTC to control 16-28 psi electronically...hmmmmmm
Thoughts?
BW
BoostKillsStres
TIRE-FRYER VIA HAIR-DRYER
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Quick6,
Thats kinda how I'm planning on using the RJC unit. I'm going to set it to 15-16psi or so and feed its output into the factory Y input that normally goes to the compressor that way I can have the fastest spool along with factory electronic boost control and have 3rd/4th gear boost control. I should also then be able to hook an electronic valve in the line somewhere w/ a bleeder attached for activation for alky and a higher boost setting so no race/non-race adjustment would be needed on the RJC unit.
The plan is also to hook up my boost logging on Directscan again and log 2 launches, one w/ the factory boost control setup and fast spool chip code then the other launch w/ the RJC unit added to the factory setup so that would be the only variable and chart time to boost data in excel and see what works best.
Should be interesting but I have to fix my posi first and order some stickys as mine are dead.
Thats kinda how I'm planning on using the RJC unit. I'm going to set it to 15-16psi or so and feed its output into the factory Y input that normally goes to the compressor that way I can have the fastest spool along with factory electronic boost control and have 3rd/4th gear boost control. I should also then be able to hook an electronic valve in the line somewhere w/ a bleeder attached for activation for alky and a higher boost setting so no race/non-race adjustment would be needed on the RJC unit.
The plan is also to hook up my boost logging on Directscan again and log 2 launches, one w/ the factory boost control setup and fast spool chip code then the other launch w/ the RJC unit added to the factory setup so that would be the only variable and chart time to boost data in excel and see what works best.
Should be interesting but I have to fix my posi first and order some stickys as mine are dead.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
sounds great,, i want to hear how it works-
so what you are saying is that you will have the RJC bleeder inline just as the directions say, then install the Y fitting "straight" AFTER the RJC bleeder "closer to the wastegate" and the "dogleg" portion of the factory Y will lead to the BSTC/another controller???
now the Factory Y fitting is orificed on the "straight" section...
?? Perhaps a T fitting would be better instead of the factory Y??
i dont know thats why im posting.
where do we go from here? i need both!
Thanks for the interest
BW
so what you are saying is that you will have the RJC bleeder inline just as the directions say, then install the Y fitting "straight" AFTER the RJC bleeder "closer to the wastegate" and the "dogleg" portion of the factory Y will lead to the BSTC/another controller???
now the Factory Y fitting is orificed on the "straight" section...
?? Perhaps a T fitting would be better instead of the factory Y??
i dont know thats why im posting.
where do we go from here? i need both!
Thanks for the interest
BW
BoostKillsStres
TIRE-FRYER VIA HAIR-DRYER
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Simply stated what I'm planning to do is replace the compressor rubber line w/ the RJC unit(on the compressor side of the Y) and leave everything else the stock. I figure once the boost is above my RJC 15psi setting it is then basically just a open valve so I believe the rest of the factory setup Y fitting and all shouldn't need to be changed.
I've never played w/ a BSTC but it sounds like your plumbing will work. I imagine a T fitting could also be used you just have to figure on how not having a metered orafice anywhere would effect your BSTC boost control.
I've never played w/ a BSTC but it sounds like your plumbing will work. I imagine a T fitting could also be used you just have to figure on how not having a metered orafice anywhere would effect your BSTC boost control.
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