Power loss

E

edmonds27

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2010
Every time I lay into the gas, RPM's come up like normal and turbo spools up and then it just falls on its face, shuddering and sometimes backfiring. All the sensors are ok and the timing is good. My machanic friend said to check the waste gate. It moves freely but when we checked it with the car running the thing was barely moving. And it doesn't pulse or studded like all the others cars I've seen. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
No I don't have a ls1 or a translator, what exactly is that? I've heard of guys using that. Is there a way to test the MAF to see if it works or not?
 
You can use the later model MAFF/MASS but you need a translator for it to work with the earlier system. The LS1 unit flows more and that helps. Reliability is also better than the original.
 
Ok, little bit more information on the problem. The car will handle the boost. The only time it starts studdering, valve chatter and back fires is when you call for a lot of fuel and air. For some reason it just does not like a lot fuel.
 
do you have a scan master or powerlogger? alot of the guys on here can tell you alot with the readings....ufortunately i'm not one of them since i am still in learning process myself. lol!
 
It sounds like it's running lean. The valve clatter is probably not valve clatter, it's pre-ignition from running lean.
Backfire through the intake also indicates lean.
Many things can cause that. That's why someone asked about fuel pressure.
You're going to have to do some detective work to drill down to the cause. If it doesn't do it when the engine is cold,
it may not be the MAF because it should run off presets in the computer until warm, so the MAF is not in play at that time.
If it does it cold also, it could be somewhere in the fuel delivery area such as fuel pressure, bad injector etc.
 
i used to have the same problem turned out my tank was dirty as hell and i had to buy a new one. it was full of little chunks of rust and no matter how many times i cleaned it, it would do it again eventually (sock gets clogged, fuel filter gets clogged) and you will have bad fuel pressure and when you try to stab it, it will run like complete shit
 
Guys I'm telling ya it's gotta be a timing, you lay into it and it advances the time so much it causes all that chatter. OR my valve springs are to weak for the upgraded cam. Is there anyway to adjust the timing degree?? What about this PowerLogger? Can you actually program the TurboTweak chip? I've seen these guys, they don't even pop the hood on the car, instead they plug a laptop up to the thing and run 10's all day long?
30 psi at idle
34-36 at 1/4 throttle in gear.
 
If i remember correctly, there is a pdf you can download off the turbo tweak site that will tell you how to adjust your chip...
 
edmonds27 said:
Guys I'm telling ya it's gotta be a timing, you lay into it and it advances the time so much it causes all that chatter. OR my valve springs are to weak for the upgraded cam. Is there anyway to adjust the timing degree?? What about this PowerLogger? Can you actually program the TurboTweak chip? I've seen these guys, they don't even pop the hood on the car, instead they plug a laptop up to the thing and run 10's all day long?
30 psi at idle
34-36 at 1/4 throttle in gear.
Click to expand...
do you have an adjustable fuel regulator you need one then take the vacuum line of the regulator should be 42/43 psi at idle then hook up the line and at w/o throttle you should have 43 psi plus what ever boost you are running!
 
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