New DW 400 Fuel Pump!

Don't recall seeing any pricing for this pump.

Has it been listed yet?
 
Whatever I can out the 6265, I was hoping around 525 initially. Then I plan on stepping up 67 in a few years and shoot for 600. Some people have told me a single "good" pump with alky should be able to get me to 525. I want the fuel cushion that is why I sold my RA single pump and bought, not yet installed, the double pumper.
Best thing for you to do is call Nick, as he does answer the phone. And or call Richard Clark. If you need RC’s # PM me. I have the DW300 in my car with the stock lines. Now Richard has built me a stroker engine with all the goodies. In the mean time Nick had been telling me the DW400 is coming as it would handle a 9+sec motor.However you need bigger lines,no two ways about it. Now my dumb impatient ass could not wait on this DW400 to come out so I had Nick make me a duel DW300’s pump. To live is to learn. To much is better then not enough
 
Best thing for you to do is call Nick, as he does answer the phone. And or call Richard Clark. If you need RC’s # PM me. I have the DW300 in my car with the stock lines. Now Richard has built me a stroker engine with all the goodies. In the mean time Nick had been telling me the DW400 is coming as it would handle a 9+sec motor.However you need bigger lines,no two ways about it. Now my dumb impatient ass could not wait on this DW400 to come out so I had Nick make me a duel DW300’s pump. To live is to learn. To much is better then not enough
Thanks.
 
Whatever I can out the 6265, I was hoping around 525 initially. Then I plan on stepping up 67 in a few years and shoot for 600. Some people have told me a single "good" pump with alky should be able to get me to 525. I want the fuel cushion that is why I sold my RA single pump and bought, not yet installed, the double pumper.

Are you on Gasoline or E85 ... a DW300 will support enough fuel on Gasoline to cover you and ALOT MORE .. not sure who told you that a single pump is only good to 525 ... they have been pushed PAST 600 on E85 let alone gasoline.

400 is way over kill for what your doing if your on gasoline
 
Are you on Gasoline or E85 ... a DW300 will support enough fuel on Gasoline to cover you and ALOT MORE .. not sure who told you that a single pump is only good to 525 ... they have been pushed PAST 600 on E85 let alone gasoline.

400 is way over kill for what your doing if your on gasoline
Using gas. Actually nobody said it was good to 525, they said it should be good at 525 with a single pump. Husek told me the single should get me to 600, as well as Bruce Alred. Thanks for info. I wish I would've stuck with the RA single pump. In any event I'm looking for a reliable pump. Had a new pump go out on me and popped a head gasket running the 1320. I'm also going to concerned about the pump, especially with all the money I've spent rebuilding my engine and trans.
 
Using gas. Actually nobody said it was good to 525, they said it should be good at 525 with a single pump. Husek told me the single should get me to 600, as well as Bruce Alred. Thanks for info. I wish I would've stuck with the RA single pump. In any event I'm looking for a reliable pump. Had a new pump go out on me and popped a head gasket running the 1320. I'm also going to concerned about the pump, especially with all the money I've spent rebuilding my engine and trans.


Understood ... listen to Husek 600 is no problem on a DW300 on Gasoline ...

just out of curiosity the new pump that went out ... What type was it ?
 
Understood ... listen to Husek 600 is no problem on a DW300 on Gasoline ...

just out of curiosity the new pump that went out ... What type was it ?
XP or an XP Plus. Anyway this was back in 2008 and apparently there was a bad batch of pumps. First time to the track made 5 passes and it went kaboom on the 5th pass. I don't want to get off topic here, but initially I was blamed for not topping of my alky. Not true! Once the new gaskets and heads were installed, the shop called me and said your pump is not working anymore. I was too naive at the time to realize it was the pump not working that caused the popping of my gasket.
 
got a stupid question what' pwm control x?

This is a PWM controller : https://www.boostedrps.com/product-page/weldon-14000-fuel-pump-controller

I will be using that very same controller on my Weldon 2345A fuel pump.

So this pump is too big to for stock lines or are not ideal in other words. I guess I should through the thread again. I was thinking about getting this pump and trying to sell my Red Armstrong double pump, but I guess that is not such a good idea unless I plan on changing out the lines. Now would this include the lines that connect the fuel rail? I just replaced these with Kirban's reproduction ones.

I wouldn't get rid of the double pumper just because you need a new return line.

Tell ya what, I don't like to see someone get rid of something that they will probably regret selling later on, so if you would be willing to let me help you out, I will make you a new -6AN return line for your car with a 90degree fitting under the fuel pressure regulator, and your choice of a 45degree or straight -6AN fitting to connect to the sending unit. You can have black nylon braided or stainless steel braided lines. The fittings are all black, just to let you know.

I would be totally down to help you do this for like $50-$75 or less. I'm not trying to make any money off you, I just don't want to see you sell something that you could use later on if you decide to upgrade your car further.

So if you are willing to accept a quasi-gift from RPS, we would be happy to give you a -6 return line for like $50 or so.

That cool with you?
 
This is a PWM controller : https://www.boostedrps.com/product-page/weldon-14000-fuel-pump-controller

I will be using that very same controller on my Weldon 2345A fuel pump.



I wouldn't get rid of the double pumper just because you need a new return line.

Tell ya what, I don't like to see someone get rid of something that they will probably regret selling later on, so if you would be willing to let me help you out, I will make you a new -6AN return line for your car with a 90degree fitting under the fuel pressure regulator, and your choice of a 45degree or straight -6AN fitting to connect to the sending unit. You can have black nylon braided or stainless steel braided lines. The fittings are all black, just to let you know.

I would be totally down to help you do this for like $50-$75 or less. I'm not trying to make any money off you, I just don't want to see you sell something that you could use later on if you decide to upgrade your car further.

So if you are willing to accept a quasi-gift from RPS, we would be happy to give you a -6 return line for like $50 or so.

That cool with you?

That’s a great offer. I’d be all over it if it was offered to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Or, if you're running an aftermarket ECM that supports a PWM output for the fuel pump, you can grab a Ford module from the parts store for ~$100.

https://www.autozone.com/engine-man...ule/dorman-fuel-pump-driver-module/340566_0_0

The cool thing if your ECM supports PWM fuel pump control is you can go to a dead-head fuel rail and eliminate the return line and regulator completely.
 
Or, if you're running an aftermarket ECM that supports a PWM output for the fuel pump, you can grab a Ford module from the parts store for ~$100.

https://www.autozone.com/engine-man...ule/dorman-fuel-pump-driver-module/340566_0_0

The cool thing if your ECM supports PWM fuel pump control is you can go to a dead-head fuel rail and eliminate the return line and regulator completely.
guys here are the engineering facts. 1---Unlike most AC motors that can be damaged by low voltage due to the lack of back EMF a simple DC motor will not be damaged by low input voltage. In fact it will just slow the motor down and MAKE IT LAST EVEN LONGER due to the adjacent reduction in current--ie heat! 2----when considering using the stock supply line. While the supply line is somewhat small compared to what is generally thought to be adequate for high HP this pump can supply a lot of flow at much elevated pressures. From simple calculations I am confident that it can provide enough flow to overcome line losses (pressure drop) due to friction. While the line may show drops they will easily be regulated at the fuel rail by the regulator as long as they are high enough at the tank end. This pump can easily do this. 3---as for the return line it presents another minor problem. Since it is very small it cannot return to the tank the unused fuel when the injectors are are at low duty cycle. The obvious fix for this is to slow the pump up to a speed that will not overcome the return lines ability to flow enough fuel until the point at which the need to return excess fuel is no longer necessary. 4---This means that with normal driving this pump can loaf along at a modest speed (ie low flow rate and at a loading that will make it last much longer than normal)----Then only when increased injector duty cycle occurs does the pump increase speed and run at full capacity. This full output would usually be in bursts of 10 seconds or less with long intervals in between. Imagine how long the typical pump might last if it ran at 50% most of its life and every once in a while had to do a full 100% for a few seconds. This will also allow for the stock hanger connectors and wiring to be used since they will easily handle the necessary current for short bursts. A single large wire from the front to the back would still be a good idea. Don't make the mistake of thinking that a PWM is simple or even a good idea. Modern cars that use PWM have returnless fuel systems and do not have bypass regulators. Getting a PWM system to track boost and regulate fuel pressure is not a simple task and would require pressure sensor feedback to control the PWM duty cycle. When you think about it what we have currently is kinda silly. Run the pump at full blast and wast most of the gas back to the tank. Then add a second pump to "jump in and help" when the first one can't keep up. The implementation of this is not unlike your stock fan where all you need is a resistor in series with the pump and a bypass relay to short the resistor to bring the pump up to full speed. Pat and I intend to determine the optimum circuit shortly and we will let everyone know exactly how to implement this simple idea.
 
guys here are the engineering facts. 1---Unlike most AC motors that can be damaged by low voltage due to the lack of back EMF a simple DC motor will not be damaged by low input voltage. In fact it will just slow the motor down and MAKE IT LAST EVEN LONGER due to the adjacent reduction in current--ie heat! 2----when considering using the stock supply line. While the supply line is somewhat small compared to what is generally thought to be adequate for high HP this pump can supply a lot of flow at much elevated pressures. From simple calculations I am confident that it can provide enough flow to overcome line losses (pressure drop) due to friction. While the line may show drops they will easily be regulated at the fuel rail by the regulator as long as they are high enough at the tank end. This pump can easily do this. 3---as for the return line it presents another minor problem. Since it is very small it cannot return to the tank the unused fuel when the injectors are are at low duty cycle. The obvious fix for this is to slow the pump up to a speed that will not overcome the return lines ability to flow enough fuel until the point at which the need to return excess fuel is no longer necessary. 4---This means that with normal driving this pump can loaf along at a modest speed (ie low flow rate and at a loading that will make it last much longer than normal)----Then only when increased injector duty cycle occurs does the pump increase speed and run at full capacity. This full output would usually be in bursts of 10 seconds or less with long intervals in between. Imagine how long the typical pump might last if it ran at 50% most of its life and every once in a while had to do a full 100% for a few seconds. This will also allow for the stock hanger connectors and wiring to be used since they will easily handle the necessary current for short bursts. A single large wire from the front to the back would still be a good idea. Don't make the mistake of thinking that a PWM is simple or even a good idea. Modern cars that use PWM have returnless fuel systems and do not have bypass regulators. Getting a PWM system to track boost and regulate fuel pressure is not a simple task and would require pressure sensor feedback to control the PWM duty cycle. When you think about it what we have currently is kinda silly. Run the pump at full blast and wast most of the gas back to the tank. Then add a second pump to "jump in and help" when the first one can't keep up. The implementation of this is not unlike your stock fan where all you need is a resistor in series with the pump and a bypass relay to short the resistor to bring the pump up to full speed. Pat and I intend to determine the optimum circuit shortly and we will let everyone know exactly how to implement this simple idea.

Thanks for the thorough write up. I’m sure everyone that is looking at the 400 appreciates it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Excellent info guys. I can see a 9 second or quicker combo with -8 feed and -6 return lines, the correct regulator and one of these pumps with the right voltage working perfectly. I am looking forward to your test results sir.
One things for sure, the future looks bright vs what we've had to work with in the past.

-Patrick-
 
guys here are the engineering facts. 1---Unlike most AC motors that can be damaged by low voltage due to the lack of back EMF a simple DC motor will not be damaged by low input voltage. In fact it will just slow the motor down and MAKE IT LAST EVEN LONGER due to the adjacent reduction in current--ie heat!

This isn't true. Sure, if you reduce voltage to a DC motor that has no load, the RPM drops.
But apply a load to it, then reduce the voltage, and the current draw to keep it spinning at the lower voltage goes UP, not down. 30A draw at 6V puts a lot more heat into the windings than at 12V. That's what kills the pump if you run it at too low of a voltage.

That's why you control the pump with a pulse width module. You pulse current at it, at the proper voltage. It provides precise control of the pump without the current problems you get by trying to control it with voltage.
 
This isn't true. Sure, if you reduce voltage to a DC motor that has no load, the RPM drops.
But apply a load to it, then reduce the voltage, and the current draw to keep it spinning at the lower voltage goes UP, not down. 30A draw at 6V puts a lot more heat into the windings than at 12V. That's what kills the pump if you run it at too low of a voltage.

That's why you control the pump with a pulse width module. You pulse current at it, at the proper voltage. It provides precise control of the pump without the current problems you get by trying to control it with voltage.
i suggest you do a test to see what happens.........this is an engineering fundamental........i have only been designing electro-mechanical devices for the last 37 years and to date i have averaged nearly one patent per year........the technical data i share is solid.......you can count on it
 
I’ll be firing my new build up tomorrow. Interested to see if this pump is louder than the standard in tank pumps. I will say I feel confident in the pump from all this hype
 
Got the car running today with the DW400. Just as quiet as any other in tank pump! Will go out for some break in miles tomorrow. Happy I went with this pump
 
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