Never been cracked driver's header, how to keep it that way?

[INEEDAGN]

I have a long dormant low mileage engine that I'm going to use for a LC2 swap. Driver's header has never been cracked or welded, doubt it's ever been removed from the head. Is there any sure fire way to keep it from cracking? Weld a gusset in there? Ceramic coat it? Cosmetic appearance doesn't mean squat on this project but I don't want to have to yank it back off when the inevitable crack happens. It's not a collector's piece because the heat shield is all banged up and I don't want to replace a nice header with a pile of crap. The story is that it hasn't been to full operating temp or boost since about 87-88 and this header alone probably confirms it.

Ideas?

 

[Phoneguy]

HR motor mounts and tranny mount will help. If you keep it from flexing it should be fine. My factory headers are uncracked and the motor is for from stock.

Bryan

 

[turbonut85]

don't use it....that's the only way to be sure it won't crack...

 

[pacecarta]

HR motor mounts and tranny mount will help. If you keep it from flexing it should be fine. My factory headers are uncracked and the motor is for from stock.

Bryan

absolute absurd to think the mounts will help

heat expands metal and boosting causes extreme heat , more boost more heat more expansion , not uncommon to see headers glow red with even short term boosting , and those temps at headers can run to 1800+deg F, so going from about 500 DegF at an idle state to 1800 in seconds takes its toll and as soon as you lift the injectors shut down and you pump cool air through them and they shrink

 

[williamsGN]

Gusset between the 3 & 5 tubes

 

[Phoneguy]

absolute absurd to think the mounts will help

heat expands metal and boosting causes extreme heat , more boost more heat more expansion , not uncommon to see headers glow red with even short term boosting , and those temps at headers can run to 1800+deg F, so going from about 500 DegF at an idle state to 1800 in seconds takes its toll and as soon as you lift the injectors shut down and you pump cool air through them and they shrink

Now add the torque back into the equation that is put on the crossover pipe with weak factory mounts. Why do you think gussets are put on when welded?

 

[pacecarta]

in my best buford T justice voice ... " the mounts got nothin to do with it!"

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Unless you can stop heating and cooling cycles...then they're gonna crack.

 

[TurboBuRick]

in my best buford T justice voice ... " the mounts got nothin to do with it!"

X2

Once again I have to agree. The headers are pretty much isolated from torque stress. Overheating is the blame.

To the o.p. A gusset and coating can help but no guarantee's. It all depends on what kind of heat it's seeing.

RL

 

[kidglok]

so theoretically, aluminum headers would take the heat better?

 

[pacecarta]

oh and FYI my 86 has had HR mounts since paul first made them , if i had a dollar for every time i welded my stockers back up or every time i blew the crossover flange off or split it id ..well id have a lot of dollars

 

[INEEDAGN]

With this particular project, I plan to drive the crap out of it. Might be my DD. Pump gas motor, at least to start with. Do not care at all about looks but I can't have any leaks. I guess I'll coat them.

The crossover and stock downpipe still have the GM part number stickers on them. It's getting an ATR downpipe. I'll coat the headers and crossover. If it's cheap enough. There's always TA stock replacement if coating gets rediculous.