Need some input on using arp studs

ersin87

Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Hi guys needed some input about using arp studs vs arp bolts any help would be appreciated
 
studs cost more
with studs the torque is applied to threads above the head with lube on them instaed of threads that have sealer so the torque is more accurate with studs
 
The torque procedure is much more accurate with studs because the leverage of the fine thread is less than the coarse thread. Additional clamp load is aquired and it's more consistent fastener to fastener
 
Thanks guys that's what I thought and what I was reading The guy working on my car is telling me not to use the studs saying its problems
 
I already bought the studs and want to use them and he's telling me to sell them should I be worried about having this guy work on my car also telling me I shouldn't use cometics
 
Is he a Buick guy? Does not sound like it...run..............:)
 
Yes he's from he's from turbobuick well known member I don't know Iam getting worried now
 
The only downside to studs .vs bolts is cost to buy them. You already have them so that's a moot point.


Cometics are great....... IF you have a SMOOTH, FLAT surface that's setup for Cometics. They seal well enough to crack pistons if you detonate hard enough. If you just slap a set on an unmachined deck with an unmachined head (or ones with the wrong kind of surface texture) then, yes, "Cometics are crap".


If you have flat smooth surfaces to work with, hit both of them with a diamond stone and make them even smoother, countersink the hell out of the head stud holes, remove the rivet on the ex side of the gaskets and coat all the inner and outer surfaces with copper coat (yes, I know... Cometic says not to...) and bolt them down. For added insurance torque cycle the studs a few times so the threads can get good and married. Then see if you can shoot the crank out of the oil pan!
 
Also studs have a issue if you still have AC and need to pull the head on the passenger side.
Really not an issue as much as a pain.
 
ARP studs have a hex socket in then now. You crack the nut loose then back the whole assemble out just like a bolt.
 
Thanks guys that's what I thought and what I was reading The guy working on my car is telling me not to use the studs saying its problems
Time to find somebody else to work on your car
 
Thanks guys that's what I thought and what I was reading The guy working on my car is telling me not to use the studs saying its problems
Time to find somebody else to work on your car
 
ARP studs have a hex socket in then now. You crack the nut loose then back the whole assemble out just like a bolt.
You can only back them out so far with the head on and a AC box in the way. Hell sometimes it's a pain just to get the valve cover off.
 
The person you're dealing with may have been reading about the ARP studs not allowing the nut to 'bottom out' on the end of the heads. It just requires a extra washer or two, but if you're not paying attention the bolt will hit the stud flange before bottoming out. I haven't removed the heads in car but I'd imagine removing the heat shield by the a/c unit would make the job easier.
 
I recently took my heads off. Rolling the motor on passenger side made it a lot easier to remove that head.
 
Having experience on both sides of these gasket types I would agree that stock style head gaskets are a better choice as they act like a fuse if the tune gets too far out of whack from bad gas etc. Much rather change the head gasket then run over your crank or cave a cylinder wall....
 
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