Does anyone know what size studs to use with the stock headers and GN1 heads, if this makes a difference? I took my headers off to coat them and I can't remember what I did the studs when I pulled them from the heads. I know the top ones on the top were longer than the ones on the bottom. I can't remember much else. In terms of stud diameter, I am pretty sure they either a 10mm x 1.5 or 3/8 - 16". If any one has the specifics please let me know. I primarily need to know the length of the top and bottom, I can check the diameter with some 10mm or 3/8" bolts that I have in my bolt bin.
Stock Header Stud Size(s) - GN1 Heads
- Thread starter MCH86GN
- Start date
You know if I had my stock headers, the DS who is ceramic coating them has them since June 26th, I could measure and figure it out myself. Talk aboot piss poor service, I have never had even the most dishonest business person provide such shotty service as this dude. Once I measure out and replace my studs, threaded rod, I will post the diameter and thread size. As a matter of fact I have replaced quite a few fasteners on my beast and I will post them all for my good friends in the TB community.
go get them
Well, that is the issue. Supposedly he has them prepped for ceramic coating. You're right, enough is enough, I didn't pay in advance so we can square up and be done with it. Like my wife said, grow a pair and go get what's yours or I will. I am too much of the guy who wants to try to give people the benefit of the doubt, but this is a lost cause.
As it turns out I did not pay in advance.
TIMINATOR
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2020
Good for you!
"Prepping for coating" is either acid dipping or 15-20 minutes in a glass machine. If he wants more than 60 bucks or so for doing the blasting, it's too much. Dipping them is cheaper but doesn't give the ceramic as much "tooth.".
Ask him nicely for them, or offer to sic the wife on him!
JMHO, TIMINATOR
"Prepping for coating" is either acid dipping or 15-20 minutes in a glass machine. If he wants more than 60 bucks or so for doing the blasting, it's too much. Dipping them is cheaper but doesn't give the ceramic as much "tooth.".
Ask him nicely for them, or offer to sic the wife on him!
JMHO, TIMINATOR
So what material do you use for studs, nuts or setscrews if not some form of SS? I have a variety materials for the different fasteners, nuts, etc.
I bought some titanium studs for the PS header the turbine housing. I have heard the same thing aboot titanium, that it will sieze. The studs that I removed, primarily to clean them up a bit, were SS. They had anti-sieze that my engine builder had used when he installed them aboot 8 years ago. They were easy enough to remove.
Well I said threaded rod, but I would most likely use studs. TItanium studs or something to that effect. McMaster-Carr has a wide variety of different grades and alloys of fasteners, studs, set screws, etc.
TIMINATOR
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2020
Grade 5 or 8 with never sieze on both the stud/bolt into the head and on the threads for the nuts. I recomencd studs because if the nut siezes and it breaks off the stud, you can still remove the header and the shank of the stud. For whatever reason bolts tend to break off flush with the head and are usually harder to remove.
My shop usually does 1 or 2 broken exhaust bolt/stud removal per month, and most of the heads that come in here have 2 or more broken off.
And the first question is, "can you do it on the car". No, and if you try to do it on the car, most often you end up having to remove the head anyway because you usually wallow out the hole, requiring a helicoil, timesert, or larger insert.
Most often the customer tries to drill it first for an easy out and the hole is not centered all the way down and gets into the threads, locking it into the head.
Then they break off the easy out flush with the head too.
We have ceramic and carbide mills to plunge those out too, but again it's done in a bridgeport mill, threading for an insert and more$$$.
We usually get 4 or 5 calls about the same job from different shops after the owner has called us for an estimate, and we are told "thats too much, if I had the tools I'd do it myself. Go buy a mill and you can do the next one too!
The other shops mark up our work, so we always get the job anyway. Call a machineshop first. Never sieze is cheaper.
BTW, never sieze won't make the bolts/studs loosen up in use. The reason you have to periodically tighten the fasteners is because the gasket crushes with heat against the fasteners and when it all cools the gasket gets smooshed with every heat cycle. Check/ tighten, but not overnighten them, it won't help.
Remember that the exhaust pressure is about twice or more than the boost is, you will get to a point where gaskets won't work and then just clean the surfaces and use hi temp silicone instead. You will still have to retighten the fasteners as they will stretch with the heat cycling.
TIMINATOR
My shop usually does 1 or 2 broken exhaust bolt/stud removal per month, and most of the heads that come in here have 2 or more broken off.
And the first question is, "can you do it on the car". No, and if you try to do it on the car, most often you end up having to remove the head anyway because you usually wallow out the hole, requiring a helicoil, timesert, or larger insert.
Most often the customer tries to drill it first for an easy out and the hole is not centered all the way down and gets into the threads, locking it into the head.
Then they break off the easy out flush with the head too.
We have ceramic and carbide mills to plunge those out too, but again it's done in a bridgeport mill, threading for an insert and more$$$.
We usually get 4 or 5 calls about the same job from different shops after the owner has called us for an estimate, and we are told "thats too much, if I had the tools I'd do it myself. Go buy a mill and you can do the next one too!
The other shops mark up our work, so we always get the job anyway. Call a machineshop first. Never sieze is cheaper.
BTW, never sieze won't make the bolts/studs loosen up in use. The reason you have to periodically tighten the fasteners is because the gasket crushes with heat against the fasteners and when it all cools the gasket gets smooshed with every heat cycle. Check/ tighten, but not overnighten them, it won't help.
Remember that the exhaust pressure is about twice or more than the boost is, you will get to a point where gaskets won't work and then just clean the surfaces and use hi temp silicone instead. You will still have to retighten the fasteners as they will stretch with the heat cycling.
TIMINATOR
I am considering the following - Hardened Super-Corrosion-Resistant 316 Stainless Steel Studs/Threaded Rod - Grade B8M. I can't seem to locate any 3/8 - 16" titanium studs or threaded rod. JD Customs has metric and RaceTech has the standard, but only in select sizes.
LMAO! I decided I wanted the cool guy parts and bought a GN-ECU and the few other odds and ends that were needed. Problem was I didn't have all the parts needed in June, 2022 and instead of enjoying my car until the remaining parts arrived I decided to park it and doing the upgrades. I mean here I am a year later and applying elegent or not so elegent solutions to a bunch of non existent problems.
TIMINATOR
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2020
I got my t limited Dec. 2019 with a new motor, not running. Was gonna buy roller cam, exhaust, hotwire kit, gauges, tires, convertor, etc. Drive it till the parts came in, but it kicked out the headgaskets at 10 lbs due to poor machining and parts. Sooooo While covid/ flu was happening I couldn't get what I needed, so I bought what was available too. Big turbo, big SLIC, 70 mm T body, cold air kit, Scat crank, billet mains, trans and convertor, race headers, dual 3" ex, rebuilt the front end, steering box, brakes, 9" rear, seat Y brace, LED headlites, alky kit, alum radiator, wheels, tires, and tons more!
Remachined the engine to my specs and ported heads and intake too.
Sometimes this stuff gets away from us!
Pardon my snarkiness!
TIMINATOR
Remachined the engine to my specs and ported heads and intake too.
Sometimes this stuff gets away from us!
Pardon my snarkiness!
TIMINATOR
Well, you had a reason to at least do some work. I had no recent to switch to an aftermarket ECU and now I have went through and replaced all kinds of parts that need replaced and "fixed" a bunch that didn't need fixed. My car was running perfect summer 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021 and 2022. Now it is a complete mess with old parts everywhere and new parts waiting to be installed. I am feeling like a complete moron!
TIMINATOR
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2020
I did what I did because the "normal" parts I needed were on back order, so I figured that I'd buy the more "out there" parts that I thought I might want later, while those were still available and no one was buying them till they got the normal, needed stuff.
So, in the 3 years of back orders, my original mild street build ended up being way beyond where I intended. Which of course threw the combination way out of whack, I.E. not enough convertor for the custom .584 lift/213 deg. roller, ported, filled, valved, unshrouded, etc. irons, ported intake, 70 mm TB, race headers, etc. Although I can (with the big brakes on the 9",) get 8+ boost about 10 ft. out.
I really need about 3000 stall to make this thing sing!
I build my blower and turbo motors for a lot of flow to keep the boost down, that gets the HP in the cylinders where it does the most good, not just making an impressive # on the gauge. At 14 lbs, it runs like my pals GN does at 20 lbs.
He gets me out of the hole, but I pass him at the 1-2 shift, and the long chirp of the 275-60s (R compound) woke his ass up on my way around!
No K.R, and I think I'm gonna add some fuel, then timing(carefully, or just add boost.) I gotta finish installing the alky kit before much more fun!
Getting there!
TIMINATOR
So, in the 3 years of back orders, my original mild street build ended up being way beyond where I intended. Which of course threw the combination way out of whack, I.E. not enough convertor for the custom .584 lift/213 deg. roller, ported, filled, valved, unshrouded, etc. irons, ported intake, 70 mm TB, race headers, etc. Although I can (with the big brakes on the 9",) get 8+ boost about 10 ft. out.
I really need about 3000 stall to make this thing sing!
I build my blower and turbo motors for a lot of flow to keep the boost down, that gets the HP in the cylinders where it does the most good, not just making an impressive # on the gauge. At 14 lbs, it runs like my pals GN does at 20 lbs.
He gets me out of the hole, but I pass him at the 1-2 shift, and the long chirp of the 275-60s (R compound) woke his ass up on my way around!
No K.R, and I think I'm gonna add some fuel, then timing(carefully, or just add boost.) I gotta finish installing the alky kit before much more fun!
Getting there!
TIMINATOR
