Got a carb turbo torn apart and

[MNcarbturbo]

That is exactly what I am going with. They have a coverter that changes the Urethane to a base coat that makes 5 quarts sprayable base and then you clear over it. Saves a lot and Im not going for a show car level paint anyways, just something that looks as good as a newer car would look.

 

[mat231v6]

That is exactly what I am going with. They have a coverter that changes the Urethane to a base coat that makes 5 quarts sprayable base and then you clear over it. Saves a lot and Im not going for a show car level paint anyways, just something that looks as good as a newer car would look.

if your not going for a show car, why not just leave it single stage? why spend the extra for clear? you can spray the car with 2 or 3 coat (single stage paint) and save your self some cash. then you can use the extra you were going to spend on junk clear for something else. it will look just as good as a basecoat/clear coat paint job for a whole lot less.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Im going base clear to get the safety factor of being able to sand out dust as I am painting it in a garage, not a booth. Ive had some issues using this one stage nason stuff. Doesnt run but the metallic is off and doesnt lay down right. Ive tried a bunch of stuff and it does the same stuff. Plus the clear gives me some safety when I scratch it in the future. Single stage is easy but would rather do it right.

I wont be using cheep clear either.

 

[mat231v6]

Im going base clear to get the safety factor of being able to sand out dust as I am painting it in a garage, not a booth. Ive had some issues using this one stage nason stuff. Doesnt run but the metallic is off and doesnt lay down right. Ive tried a bunch of stuff and it does the same stuff. Plus the clear gives me some safety when I scratch it in the future. Single stage is easy but would rather do it right.

I wont be using cheep clear either.

you know you can wet sand dust out of single stage. you can also buff out small scratchs, in single stage just like basecoat clear coat. if some one keys your car or you get in a fight with a shoping cart neither clear coat or single stage will buff out.
whats your idea of good clear (brand)?
again just trying to save you some cash...

 

[mikemcvaney]

you know you can wet sand dust out of single stage. you can also buff out small scratchs, in single stage just like basecoat clear coat. if some one keys your car or you get in a fight with a shoping cart neither clear coat or single stage will buff out.
whats your idea of good clear (brand)?
again just trying to save you some cash...

If it is a solid color would not recomend to wet sand and buff a mettalic

 

[CamoDeafie]

mike; why not? curious.....my DD needs either a refinish or heavy duty wet sand/buff/wax or the Mequiars treatment; but the old Lacquer is a metallic finish i think..

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Spent most of the last 2 days priming the nose and sanding the car. Needs another 6 hrs or so of sanding on the car itself, and an hour on the hood to smooth out the primer. Fenders and header panel are ready to get sprayed.

And the good news, no hidden rust behind the rocker moldings.

 

[mikemcvaney]

mike; why not? curious.....my DD needs either a refinish or heavy duty wet sand/buff/wax or the Mequiars treatment; but the old Lacquer is a metallic finish i think..

When you wet sand it and buff it you cut into the metalic making it look nasty.

 

[CamoDeafie]

hmmm interesting. I'll have to take the DD to a bodyshop for the old ones' advices in person; as that is usually the best way to determine to what extend the refinish or restoration needs to; as taking pictures does not really do the car justice; it just looks a little faded up top in pictures lol.

and dude; cutlass is shaping into a nice base for painting!

 

[mat231v6]

When you wet sand it and buff it you cut into the metalic making it look nasty.

on single stage? right? because basecoat clear coat it shouldnt.

 

[mikemcvaney]

on single stage? right? because basecoat clear coat it shouldnt.

Yes on single stage only. It will look alright at first but it will relly look like crap later.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Car is all sanded down and ready to be primed, my camera quit and is sitting in a warranty repair center somewhere so no pics.

Should be on the road before memorial day or so. Just needs a coat of epoxy sealer, 2K primer, base, and clear and then get the fenders and hood back on along with lights and stuff.

Was going to spray it today but it took to long for the clouds to burn off and the air was full of bugs.

 

[FlintBuick4Life]

Sounds good... cant wait to see it with the hood bump:biggrin:

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Camera is back, bodywork and sanding is done. Shooting my epoxy primer this weekend if the weather holds.

 

[mat231v6]

very nice! if i may can i make some suggestions to do before you paint? one thing i always do is throw a chain over the rear end; have the chain hit the ground. this will ground the car giving less static energy, that in turn, will give you less dirt in the paint. in addition i suggest you get some prep wipes that removes static charge on the panel. remember buy a tack rag they only cost a dollar or so. i know you are just going to prime the car, but the tips i tell you will make a difference.

some shop prep ideas is to wash the floors, walls and garage door. kill all the dust you can. i use to have some fans that would run a few hours before, i went to paint; sucking dust out of the garage. i now have the really cool, portable spray booth they make. its cost to much for someone, who paint everyonce in a while. i will have to find the site, i bought it from so, you can get an idea of what i am talking about. i think someone could make it out of some plastic sheets 2X4 and some fans with filters.

some tips for your air compressor is to drain all the water out of the bottom. get a water/oil seperator it will pay off its self in the long run. alot of people forget to clean the air hose its self. dirt and oil can live on a dirty air hose. dirt on the floor can also be kicked up by the air hose when it drags across the floor. just want to have you get the best paint job you can get.
matt

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Yeah the garage is decently clean. The floor is fairly clean, was going to mist it down right before I paint to keep all the dust down. The chain idea sounds good. Ive got a water seperator already so im good to go there.

I am going to try and drape some plastic down and cover up some of the stuff on the sides of the garage when I actually paint. Ive gotta decide on a fan.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Got my epoxy primer on last weekend. Just need to scuff it up a bit and shoot the 2k down then paint and clear.

I actually drove it around the block once just to check that the trans line leak got fixed. I was limited to a block so I had no real comparison to last year but considering I have no traction and the timing is probably a little slow it seemed where it was last year. That was with the MSD box turned up from when I stuck 87 in it just to break it in.

Hopefully its rolling by june if everything sorta goes right.

 

[WarWagon]

Your scheduled up for a good completion time frame. Going to be nice having the Olds out with new paint and the drawthru power.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Snapped some pics.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Spoiler is mounted, and the car is ready for 2K. Got my soiler spacers casted up and duraglassed on. Its been about a month since Ive got working on the car but I should make better progress soon. Took a week off, was gone a weekend, picked up the new firebird project.

And the new project after the car is painted. 97 Firebird, Ttops, 3.42 posi, blown 3800. Going to do a L67 supercharger on it so it should be a fun little driver. Would have liked to wait but its pretty nice, needs some new swaybars, a tad of rust repair and to fix the motor but its what I was looking for.