Got a carb turbo torn apart and

[MNcarbturbo]

Been busy but I just picked up the block from the machine shop. Put in the main berings and the crank. The rope seal was a PITA to put in. Fit it in the slot and tired to cut off the extra and it didnt cut nice. Might have to pull out the crank and fix it. BTW, I noticed the kit doesnt come with a valley pan or intake gaskets. Is that something that just needs to be ordered?

 

[charlief1]

Do yourself a favor and see if you can find a neoprene rear main and get rid of the rope. Post some pics if you can.

 

[usetaboost]

Yes i ntake gasket is seperate and I think the gaskets for the turbo are also. Do yourself a favor on that aspect and check out which intake gasket is preferred. either look at the b4black website or the carb turbo recipe on gnttype.org If you have trouble finding it let me know.

 

[charlief1]

I've got a McCord #40140N. It has the restricted center EGR hole but I'm thinking about going ot Felpro 1200? instead.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Yes i ntake gasket is seperate and I think the gaskets for the turbo are also. Do yourself a favor on that aspect and check out which intake gasket is preferred. either look at the b4black website or the carb turbo recipe on gnttype.org If you have trouble finding it let me know.

I hate to sound helpless but I couldn't locate it All my gaskets are fel pro so Id like to stay with fel pro obviously.

BTW, The machine shop bill was Over $900, ohh well, I knew it wasnt going to be a cheep build. Since I had 3 spun rod berrings I had to get a new crank. It is a stock turbo replacemnt. Should I have gone with a different crank? I itsnt too late to get a better one yet.

 

[usetaboost]

Holy Sh!t That's rediculous. You could have picked up an n/a crank for cheap on the board and had it polished and thrown it in. What else did you have done to the assembly and block?

Did you ever post pics of your ride???

 

[MNcarbturbo]

That $900 was for the master rebuild kit, pistons, crank, block work, everything pretty much. I was surprised to find out the High flow iol pump was $100. All Ive got done is the crank berrings in and the crank bolted in.

I was looking at my heads and is it worth to port them? Same goes with the lifter valley. The casting looks really rough where the oil returns are.

Heres some pictures of the cutlass it will be going in. Im going to be painting it a dark almost black green with some gold snowflakes off a TA on it. Getting rid of the chrome moldings, painting the grills and headlight bezzels black, putting a wing on it and putting a cowl hood on it is on the list too. Might try to find some aluminum parts too. It is now off the trailer. Drove the thing a little and it runs good. The 455 its got now has a backfire in it but even with that it is pretty fast.

 

[usetaboost]

Hell I would leave it the way it is and drive it

 

[LilSpann601]

LOl u gotta be joking why in the hell would you go from a man's 455 to a small fry buick v6 carb turbo?? you have any more pics like the 455 or carb turbo stuff

 

[usetaboost]

That's a clean cutlass. I would leave it alone

 

[Freddie's Buick]

....It is a stock turbo replacemnt. Should I have gone with a different crank? I itsnt too late to get a better one yet.

No one makes a stock replacement turbo fillet crank...NO-ONE, not even GM. At least that's the last I heard. Unless they knew you were coming and made it special. Even then it would at least cost you more than an entire new car.

Chances are they got an N/A one and those may still be available, they are just as reliable and sturdy as a rolled fillet. (The turbo fillet ones were over-kill thats why they are so vaunted and desired).

They are b/s'ing you with that story. Get the invoice and have them prove that. And like the other members wrote, you could of pulled one from a junked 3.8 or 4.1 and had it re-cut. Any good machine shop would of told you that in advance. Did they physically show you that your oem crank was un-repairable? I'd ask for it back. Rolled fillet cranks have alot of meat on them.

I had mine re-cut for $40.00, (mine is an N/A crank). Spun one rod and the rest were worn. Brand new when they finished.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

It probably is a NA crank. I jsut guessed. The old one had 4 spun rod berrings and the guy said the max for rebuilds is 2. I still have old crank if I need it. The new one was $120 so for a new crank its almost made more sense to do it that way than get a used one and have it cut.

Why not keep the 455? This will be a daily driver and the 455 just doesnt get the fuel milage and honestly, is kinda a pig to start and drive around. I'd love to keep it but it isnt practical. Plus, today while getting it running better, the th350 trans lost all forward gears. Had to drive home backwards. Don't ask how it happened....

 

[usetaboost]

olds, buick, or pontiac--455?

 

[MNcarbturbo]

olds, buick, or pontiac--455?

Olds, almost a shame to tear apart an old powered olds but oh well.

 

[usetaboost]

Dude I'm tellin ya. Work with what you got. If you hook up an OD trans amd get the carb tuned in, you will get nearly as good gas mileage as the buick v6 with a 350 trans

 

[LilSpann601]

i would kill to have a 455...lol jk how much hp does a olds 455 have compared to a buick 455

 

[dr_frankenstein]

toss that pig of a V8 ...... you waste more hauling the weight around than if you had a nice and light V6.

weight can be mighter than horsepower if payed attention to .

 

[MNcarbturbo]

UPDATE:

Got Pistons on the rods, pistons in the block and the cam and lifters in. Also, the valves are out of the heads, and I did just a tiny bit of porting in the intake passages. Nothing to crazy though. Hopefully I can get the heads put back together next weekend and put them on.

 

[charlief1]

Been a while

UPDATE:

Got Pistons on the rods, pistons in the block and the cam and lifters in. Also, the valves are out of the heads, and I did just a tiny bit of porting in the intake passages. Nothing to crazy though. Hopefully I can get the heads put back together next weekend and put them on.

Do yourself a favor and port the snot out of the valve pocket and guide area. That's where you get the most benifit for flow. Go to the engine section and do a search on porting. Some good info before you put it back together. If you've already had a valve job done take some silicone and put it where the valve seat is to protect it and shove some in the guide hole to keep crap out of it. A pain to remove but cheap insurance. Welcome back to the dark side and keep us informed.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

I think I am going to stick the heads as they sit on, and get the motor in the cutlass and get the motor running good. Then I will have more time to do a great job porting them. After that I think I will get around to getting a higher lift cam and getting a valve job done. I'll probably get new lifters then too.