Full Engine build advise
- Thread starter GN918
- Start date
turbodave231
Moderator
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I've done this a few times and Here are my suggestions:
JE, Diamond or Wiesco forged pistons
H beam rods (K1 or Molnar, these will allow you to use full floating piston pins)
Forged crank (stock 3.4 stroke or 3.625 stroker)
Ported Champion iron or Aluminum GN1 heads
Reworked stock intake manifold
Hemco upper plenum
T&D rockers, 214/214 hyd roller cam, Morel lifters
3 billet main caps (#1,#2, #3) ARP studs
Cometic head gaskets, ARP bolts or studs.
As stated previously, Bearing clearances are critical in these engines. The typical .0026-.0032" clearances that work in most V8 engines WILL NOT work in the Buick V6! Most engine builders are not comfortable building an engine with tight clearances, but that is what is needed with a Buick V6 for it to live.
Mike at Full Throttle Speed sells matched rotating assemblies, best to buy the full kit.
Good luck!
JE, Diamond or Wiesco forged pistons
H beam rods (K1 or Molnar, these will allow you to use full floating piston pins)
Forged crank (stock 3.4 stroke or 3.625 stroker)
Ported Champion iron or Aluminum GN1 heads
Reworked stock intake manifold
Hemco upper plenum
T&D rockers, 214/214 hyd roller cam, Morel lifters
3 billet main caps (#1,#2, #3) ARP studs
Cometic head gaskets, ARP bolts or studs.
As stated previously, Bearing clearances are critical in these engines. The typical .0026-.0032" clearances that work in most V8 engines WILL NOT work in the Buick V6! Most engine builders are not comfortable building an engine with tight clearances, but that is what is needed with a Buick V6 for it to live.
Mike at Full Throttle Speed sells matched rotating assemblies, best to buy the full kit.
Good luck!
jasjamz
THS Racer
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2004
I can't resist asking, if your builder has done other Turbo Regal engines, why can't he suggest a solid combo? Who is he, and where is he located? Someone here may know of him and can offer some assistance.
Secondly that Turbo is too big for a 95% street car. A 62mm Turbo from Bison or Precision would make for a more entertaining street car.
Secondly that Turbo is too big for a 95% street car. A 62mm Turbo from Bison or Precision would make for a more entertaining street car.
Very nice combo, this is very close to what I have come up with and appreciate the fine details and advice!
Yes he has and has done some amazing builds, I'm doing the parts shopping so I was getting some input on good brand, combos, price points etc. and getting a feel for how these cars operate since I am new. Also figuring out if I want to go mild or wild so I know what I am getting into financially.
As for the turbo, why do you suggest is too big?
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jasjamz
THS Racer
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2004
I maintain a few TR's for local friends. Various combos, not to include my own which has changed/evolved repeatedly. In comparison 67mm turbos take a mild car combo closer to a 1/4 mile machine. The billet 62mm turbos still put you in the small responsive unit feel but can raise eyebrows without much effort.
You can pop in a real loose converter and wake the 67 up early, but it will feel softer on the highway that it should with the right combo and converter.
Dont get me wrong, 67mm units kick but in the right place, like a THS class car. You are not building that though. So a 6262 is more than enough with room to grow. If you search my post you will find a simple combo like Pronto suggested and the time slips.
You can pop in a real loose converter and wake the 67 up early, but it will feel softer on the highway that it should with the right combo and converter.
Dont get me wrong, 67mm units kick but in the right place, like a THS class car. You are not building that though. So a 6262 is more than enough with room to grow. If you search my post you will find a simple combo like Pronto suggested and the time slips.
Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
1. Rods - stock or upgrade? Stock checked and resized
2. Pistons - forged alum of course Budget go TRW, spending coin go for J&E, Wiseco or Diamond
3. Crank - stock or upgrade? Stock, gone over, balanced rotating assembly
4. Cam - flat or roller? Small roller like 206/206
5. Heads - stock heads but getting them redone Ported/polished, larger intake valves, matching springs, etc
6. Plenum - 70+ tb Stock ported tb
7. Headers - stock? Yes, checked for cracks and flatness
8. Gridle - do I need it? No
9. Plenum spacer - do I need it? No
10. Timing chain - double roller Yes
11. Harmonic balancer - stock? Yes
12. Roller lifters - do I need them? Yes, need with a roller cam, stock rockers
13. Fuel rail - ? Stock
14. Intake manifold - port? Gasket match, block EGR
15 . Chip/injectors - turbo tweak TT 6.1 and 60lb injectors
16. Alky - good idea? Absolutely
17. Radiator - 3 row dual electric fans F-body radiator
18. Down pipe - 3" enough? Yes including a free flowing exhaust
19. Blow off valve - ? Not needed
20. Rjc deep oil pan - ? Not needed
21. Earl Brown timing cover
22. RJC Power Plate
23. Fresh coil
24. Fresh sparkplug wires
25. Mini Starter
26. Fresh battery cables
27. Dutt neck intercooler minimum, extended stock location, small front mount
28. Hot wire kit
29. 255 minimum fuel pump, 340 with return line mods or new return line
30. Smaller turbo in the 6262 range
31. Wide band O2 sensor
32. Powerlogger
33. Drag radials
34. 12" l/u converter with 2800 stall
35. Decent build tranny ready to install when the stocker starts slipping, which is will.
This will give you great power on the street and run mid 11s all day. With more tuning and boost, high 10s. Some do it with more, some with less. Just my opinion what would make a strong, reliable street car if you need to rebuild the engine. Bring your wallet.
2. Pistons - forged alum of course Budget go TRW, spending coin go for J&E, Wiseco or Diamond
3. Crank - stock or upgrade? Stock, gone over, balanced rotating assembly
4. Cam - flat or roller? Small roller like 206/206
5. Heads - stock heads but getting them redone Ported/polished, larger intake valves, matching springs, etc
6. Plenum - 70+ tb Stock ported tb
7. Headers - stock? Yes, checked for cracks and flatness
8. Gridle - do I need it? No
9. Plenum spacer - do I need it? No
10. Timing chain - double roller Yes
11. Harmonic balancer - stock? Yes
12. Roller lifters - do I need them? Yes, need with a roller cam, stock rockers
13. Fuel rail - ? Stock
14. Intake manifold - port? Gasket match, block EGR
15 . Chip/injectors - turbo tweak TT 6.1 and 60lb injectors
16. Alky - good idea? Absolutely
17. Radiator - 3 row dual electric fans F-body radiator
18. Down pipe - 3" enough? Yes including a free flowing exhaust
19. Blow off valve - ? Not needed
20. Rjc deep oil pan - ? Not needed
21. Earl Brown timing cover
22. RJC Power Plate
23. Fresh coil
24. Fresh sparkplug wires
25. Mini Starter
26. Fresh battery cables
27. Dutt neck intercooler minimum, extended stock location, small front mount
28. Hot wire kit
29. 255 minimum fuel pump, 340 with return line mods or new return line
30. Smaller turbo in the 6262 range
31. Wide band O2 sensor
32. Powerlogger
33. Drag radials
34. 12" l/u converter with 2800 stall
35. Decent build tranny ready to install when the stocker starts slipping, which is will.
This will give you great power on the street and run mid 11s all day. With more tuning and boost, high 10s. Some do it with more, some with less. Just my opinion what would make a strong, reliable street car if you need to rebuild the engine. Bring your wallet.
Pronto, that is some great information I appreciate it I will post my final parts list and get your opinion you're very knowledgeable thank you for your input!
Good advice. Eticket knows what he is doing.
