Full Engine build advise

GN918

Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
First of all I am new here so please be patient with me if I am not knowledgeable about some aspects of this build and your help and input is greatly appreciated to get this thing done right!

I'm doing a full rebuild on this motor and need some help on picking out some parts. I already bought the turbo which is a turbonetics 67 mm ball bearing made for the grand national which doing some research (correct me if I am wrong) will produce about 650hp with a decent built motor, now you have an idea of the hp I'm trying to achieve.

Here are the parts I need help with assuming that the stock parts will be up to par if we use them. If there is a better recipe or avenue please let me know.

1. Rods - stock or upgrade?
2. Pistons - forged alum of course
3. Crank - stock or upgrade?
4. Cam - flat or roller?
5. Heads - stock heads but getting them redone
6. Plenum - 70+ tb
7. Headers - stock?
8. Gridle - do I need it?
9. Plenum spacer - do I need it?
10. Timing chain - double roller
11. Harmonic balancer - stock?
12. Roller lifters - do I need them?
13. Fuel rail - ?
14. Intake manifold - port?
15 . Chip/injectors - turbo tweak
16. Alky - good idea?
17. Radiator - 3 row dual electric fans
18. Down pipe - 3" enough?
19. Blow off valve - ?
20. Rjc deep oil pan - ?

Thank you for taking the time to help me and if I am missing anything please let me know!
 
And this is just my opinion..
-Rods andCrank should be forged
-Cam should also be atleast a hydraulic roller with MOREL lifters (stay away from Comp lifters ask me how i know)
-RJC Girdle or at the very least steel caps would be a smart idea
MAKE SURE ALL BEARING CLEARANCES ARE DONE PROPERLY, AND FIND A GOOD MACHINIST/ENGINE BUILDER WHO KNOW'S THESE ENGINES!!!!!
-Yes port the intake manifold and heads
-You dont need a new fuel rail, BUT i would get a good FUEL PUMP and Hot Wire Kit
-3" Down pipe and stock headers will be good for the power your looking for
-Alky would also be a wise choice along with a good tune

- A good healthy Transmission and Stall Converter along with an upgraded suspension is also something to consider.
Hope this helps
 
And this is just my opinion..
-Rods andCrank should be forged
-Cam should also be atleast a hydraulic roller with MOREL lifters (stay away from Comp lifters ask me how i know)
-RJC Girdle or at the very least steel caps would be a smart idea
MAKE SURE ALL BEARING CLEARANCES ARE DONE PROPERLY, AND FIND A GOOD MACHINIST/ENGINE BUILDER WHO KNOW'S THESE ENGINES!!!!!
-Yes port the intake manifold and heads
-You dont need a new fuel rail, BUT i would get a good FUEL PUMP and Hot Wire Kit
-3" Down pipe and stock headers will be good for the power your looking for
-Alky would also be a wise choice along with a good tune

- A good healthy Transmission and Stall Converter along with an upgraded suspension is also something to consider.
Hope this helps

Great advice thanks! You think art carr 3500 stall is good for this setup?
 
First of all I am new here so please be patient with me if I am not knowledgeable about some aspects of this build and your help and input is greatly appreciated to get this thing done right!

I'm doing a full rebuild on this motor and need some help on picking out some parts. I already bought the turbo which is a turbonetics 67 mm ball bearing made for the grand national which doing some research (correct me if I am wrong) will produce about 650hp with a decent built motor, now you have an idea of the hp I'm trying to achieve.
have you looked into pricing out a short block or long block from one of the vendors...
First of all I am new here so please be patient with me if I am not knowledgeable about some aspects of this build and your help and input is greatly appreciated to get this thing done right!

I'm doing a full rebuild on this motor and need some help on picking out some parts. I already bought the turbo which is a turbonetics 67 mm ball bearing made for the grand national which doing some research (correct me if I am wrong) will produce about 650hp with a decent built motor, now you have an idea of the hp I'm trying to achieve.

Here are the parts I need help with assuming that the stock parts will be up to par if we use them. If there is a better recipe or avenue please let me know.

1. Rods - stock or upgrade?
2. Pistons - forged alum of course
3. Crank - stock or upgrade?
4. Cam - flat or roller?
5. Heads - stock heads but getting them redone
6. Plenum - 70+ tb
7. Headers - stock?
8. Gridle - do I need it?
9. Plenum spacer - do I need it?
10. Timing chain - double roller
11. Harmonic balancer - stock?
12. Roller lifters - do I need them?
13. Fuel rail - ?
14. Intake manifold - port?
15 . Chip/injectors - turbo tweak
16. Alky - good idea?
17. Radiator - 3 row dual electric fans
18. Down pipe - 3" enough?
19. Blow off valve - ?
20. Rjc deep oil pan - ?

Thank you for taking the time to help me and if I am missing anything please let me know!
with all those question marks, another option is to price out a long or short block from one of the vendors if your building around the turbo.
 
What are your goals, tuning experience, performance car experience and how deep are your pockets?
Much will depend on those important variables. No matter what you do you will need all the supporting actors too ie; fuel, tuning device, trans/converter, suspension, tires and safety equipment.
 
have you looked into pricing out a short block or long block from one of the vendors...

with all those question marks, another option is to price out a long or short block from one of the vendors if your building around the turbo.

I have not priced one out, I will look into that thanks!
 
PM eticket. He has a proven, drop in, proven low 10 turn key setup for sale, at a price you can not ever built it. You can see it run before deciding.
 
What are your goals, tuning experience, performance car experience and how deep are your pockets?
Much will depend on those important variables. No matter what you do you will need all the supporting actors too ie; fuel, tuning device, trans/converter, suspension, tires and safety equipment.

My goal is to have a a fast car !;) Hopefully 10 sec quarter mile? I am no tuner but my builder has done many syclone and turbo regal builds and I trust him. I am experienced with modern naturally aspirated motors but the turbo motors scare me so I would not touch one myself. I am thinking about $10K :dead: in the motor alone fully built.

As for the supporting factors I am still working on but this is what I have planned out so far

Fuel: High Flow pump, regulator, injectors
Tuning: turbo tweak with injectors to match
Trans/Converter : I have 2 trannys im not sure which one yet (has a monster 700R4 in it right now) or the original 200r4 and a 9.5 Art Carr 3400 stall
Suspension: still putting this together but will be a full setup with coil overs
Tires: 255/40/18 Front 285/35/18 rear
Safety equipment: what d you mean?
 
Safety equipment: what d you mean?

I ask that that same question everytime they tell me to "take that thing home" when I go too fast at the drag strip.:D

You need at least a drive line loop and roll bar to go faster than 11.50
 
Stick with the 200r/converter from a TB vendor. You should include a Powerlogger in your list. A "10 second car" safety equipment would include a roll bar/harness at a NHRA track. Other things to consider are c-clip eliminators, jacket and of course a Snell rated helmet. Those tires are not going to cut it at the track. You are going to need a better than stock intercooler. You shouldn't build an engine around a turbo, better to build the engine to make/handle the hp you need for your goals then pick a turbo and converter that will get you there. A smaller cam and turbo might be a better match for your driving habits and still run 10s. If you just want a stout street car and go to track once a year a 500 hp car can be a ton of fun and easily run 11s without much drama. Don't get hung up on a hp number.
The fact it has a 700 in it now shows the previous owner was ill informed.
 
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Stick with the 200r/converter from a TB vendor. You should include a Powerlogger in your list. A "10 second car" safety equipment would include a roll bar/harness at a NHRA track. Other things to consider are c-clip eliminators, jacket and of course a Snell rated helmet. Those tires are not going to cut it at the track. You are going to need a better than stock intercooler. You shouldn't build an engine around a turbo, better to build the engine to make/handle the hp you need for your goals then pick a turbo and converter that will get you there. A smaller cam and turbo might be a better match for your driving habits and still run 10s. If you just want a stout street car and go to track once a year a 500 hp car can be a ton of fun and easily run 11s without much drama. Don't get hung up on a hp number.
The fact it has a 700 in it now shows the previous owner was ill informed.

Ok I was leaning towards the 200r as well, as for driving I won't be going to drag or track this car much maybe once to see what she does, 95% street driving. I for sure will have a front mount intercooler with a large radiator and electric fans. The cars is bone stock right now except the tranny so it does not have any extra power. I bought a bigger turbo since I can always control my boost and not over work the turbo keeping it at midrange if I wanted too.

Do I really need a roll cage? As for the exterior and interior I really wanted to keep everything bone stock down to the radio except the wheels. I will have extra bracing here and there but it won't be visible.
 
There is no such thing as overworking a turbo at midrange. Whats the fastest you have ever gone down the track? If you run at an NHRA track you will need a roll bar at 11.49. My track is very strict on that.
 
I guess I didn't make my self clear, this is Not a track car, I'm not over working it, I'm keeping the boost at midrange
 
If it's not a track car then forget 650 hp and forget that turbo. You'll be plenty happy with a small roller cam, ported iron heads, alky and a 6262. It will have "10s" potential and be a blast on the street at 26psi.
 
If it's not a track car then forget 650 hp and forget that turbo. You'll be plenty happy with a small roller cam, ported iron heads, alky and a 6262. It will have "10s" potential and be a blast on the street at 26psi.
Noted. thank you for your input!
 
If it's not a track car then forget 650 hp and forget that turbo. You'll be plenty happy with a small roller cam, ported iron heads, alky and a 6262. It will have "10s" potential and be a blast on the street at 26psi.

Pronto is right, that's good advise.
 
If it's not a track car then forget 650 hp and forget that turbo. You'll be plenty happy with a small roller cam, ported iron heads, alky and a 6262. It will have "10s" potential and be a blast on the street at 26psi.

Pronto, what's a 6262 by the way?
 
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