Comp Roller cam button too thick
- Thread starter fast400
- Start date
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Never had that problem, but we have always used a spring loaded button with a stock-type cam with the integral gear. 
GNONYX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2009
I just finished installing the timing chain, gears, chain tensioner, spring loaded cam button from Napa and timing cover with seal.
After removing the timing cover I notice where the cam button seats there was a ridge or center tip causing the new cam button to rock side to side. I used a Dremel grinder to flatten the tip off and made the surface level to match the face of the cam button. Upon installing the timing cover I had roughly 1/4" space before matching both timing cover and engine block.
After removing the timing cover I notice where the cam button seats there was a ridge or center tip causing the new cam button to rock side to side. I used a Dremel grinder to flatten the tip off and made the surface level to match the face of the cam button. Upon installing the timing cover I had roughly 1/4" space before matching both timing cover and engine block.
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counterman
Member
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2006
Recheck the fit of the button to the camshaft, and make sure the button is fully in place. Make sure there is no casting flash on the cover, as others have said, that could be causing the interference. Keep in mind that shimming requirements will differ from cover to cover, engine to engine, cam to cam, etc. Most importantly, verify that the cam is properly machined. There are improperly machined cams out there that have extra thick thrust surfaces, that will push the cam forward, causing this lack of clearance, as well as lobe to adjacent lifter contact if not corrected. This can ruin your engine if present and undetected!! I, and others, have posted of this in previous posts. In my case, the thrust surface of the cam was .040 too thick. I had my local shop cut it down to the specs found on my old oem cam, as well as a flat tappet Edelbrock I had here. They were identical, but the Comp was thicker by the .040 I mentioned.
It's a spring loaded button. Yes of course, the front cover is going to come in contact with the front cover BEFORE the front cover comes in contact with the block. If it didn't there wouldn't be much use for the spring and it wouldn't be keeping the cam back in place as it should. A quarter inch isn't terrible.
austinibew145
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2008
If you are using the shim style button. I had a similar problem. The button did not fit in cam all the way. There was .080 sticking out. I had to have some machine work done. To get the button in. After that you just need to find a few gaskets different thickness. That will help when finding right combo to get the clearance you need.
wantattype2
Member
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2010
If the Comp Cams button is like the Meling cam button and you are not using the spring, you can remove the retainer and take out one of the shims.
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turbodave231
Moderator
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Dave, I'm fairly sure the OP was about a roller button run on a cast roller cam (not a billet roller with the oddfire nose).
I ran into the opposite problem with a roller button. I had too much cam endplay and shims were NOT going to correct the problem. The front cover was re-machined in the cam thrust area to eliminate grooves left by previous use. I took the button apart by removing the tiny C clip and made a new thicker body for the button out of 300M steel.
If the previous suggestions don't pan out, disassemble the button and have somebody with a lathe, face off the area that touches the cover. I'll be glad to do the machine work if you want to send me the button. I'll need a dimension that will work for you. PM me if you need my help.
I ran into the opposite problem with a roller button. I had too much cam endplay and shims were NOT going to correct the problem. The front cover was re-machined in the cam thrust area to eliminate grooves left by previous use. I took the button apart by removing the tiny C clip and made a new thicker body for the button out of 300M steel.
If the previous suggestions don't pan out, disassemble the button and have somebody with a lathe, face off the area that touches the cover. I'll be glad to do the machine work if you want to send me the button. I'll need a dimension that will work for you. PM me if you need my help.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
We use a roller button on a spring for stock-type cams, flat tappet or roller.
After maybe a hundred or so ductile roller cam installations, so far no issues, and a LOT simpler/easier than the shim type with no spring.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Nick, do you sell those?
RL
RL
We use a roller button on a spring for stock-type cams, flat tappet or roller.
After maybe a hundred or so ductile roller cam installations, so far no issues, and a LOT simpler/easier than the shim type with no spring.
Understood.
Completely understand. I guess I forgot that the ductile rollers have a standard nose. I just made sure on mine (new flat tappet install) that I had the surface inside my front cover machined flat for an area around where the button contacts it so I had about a 2" nice flat circular area for the button to ride.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
TA Performance has them for under $20 last I checked.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Hmm, I don't see them on the website. I will give them a call. Thanks!
RL
RL
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
Any parts store can oreder the roller trust bumper from Sealed Power. It is spring loaded and usually around $10. Good to hear that Nick has had that kind of success with the spring loaded thrust bumper on an austemper roller cam. I have done it once with success and have been afraid to try it anymore. Now I will. Also........Make sure the oil transfere hole on the cam thrust face is deburred. I find them with big burs all the time. It will grind a groove in the front of the block if not de-burred. Also make sure the screw in pipe plugs in the front oil galleries are flush or below the surface of the cam thrust surface of the block. (you DID tap the oil holes for pipe plugs, right? You didn't use the factory press in plugs, RIGHT?) (TA sells the special screw in plugs)
(TA sells the special screw in plugs)stagemonster
R.C. entourage
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2005
How much clearence do u recommend between the button and cover on a shin type button
