Cars getting dyno tuned tomorrow!!!
- Thread starter Onalky87
- Start date
There is a high probability that crank would have failed a mag test prior to even going on the dyno. The thrust was out a bunch and it's not typically common to run a .030 cut crank but doubtful it failed because it was .030 under. .020 has been 9's. You never know what you're going to get
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Weber racing sells a forged rotating assembly complete with bearings, rings for $1500.
You ain't have to worry about the motor after that. FYI
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
You ain't have to worry about the motor after that. FYI
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
I'd love to do that but I have no block or time to wait for it at the builder
Man that sux!!!! Was it a fresh build?? Anymiles on the motor at all? I dont even have a Buick yet and im already petrified of this happening!!! good luck!!
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Understood.
Between Otto, Nick Micale and Cal Hartline I bet they can find what you are looking for. I would call them.
Duttweiler may have something laying around that might work too.
For what your goals are and the hardware you are putting in this car I would not go cheap and use a stock block with stock parts. You will blow it up and be further in the hole than you are now.
I would recommend a stock block with billet caps. A girdle is optional. Get a forged assembly in the block. This will allow you to run a bit more displacement than stock. Weber makes a 3.59 or 3.625 stroke crank. Forged pistons and forged rods are a necessity.
Know this up front. A stock block will only take so much before you push all of it out of the bottom. Stage 1 and 2 blocks crack along the freeze plugs. The only block that holds up to the abuse is a TA block. And those are $4000 to start.
Good luck
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
Sorry to hear this, it was putting up some good numbers too at moderate boost.
I agree with Bison, I'd bet it never got a Mag test and it was probably already too weak/flawed to be in a FI engine like yours. Though I'm not a fan of the 30 under bearing for us due to the cranks age and wear considering it's past.
Here's a link to an example of a shop that does Magnaflux tesing.
Crankshaft Magnaflux & Grinding
I'd go with what Reggie layed out for you, decide Stroker or not first. Then find all the forged parts you can afford and redo it.
One thing though I'd consider, a 9:1 or up compression engine.
I agree with Bison, I'd bet it never got a Mag test and it was probably already too weak/flawed to be in a FI engine like yours. Though I'm not a fan of the 30 under bearing for us due to the cranks age and wear considering it's past.
Here's a link to an example of a shop that does Magnaflux tesing.
Crankshaft Magnaflux & Grinding
I'd go with what Reggie layed out for you, decide Stroker or not first. Then find all the forged parts you can afford and redo it.
One thing though I'd consider, a 9:1 or up compression engine.
I think you might be going a bit far, I mean I have a stock shortblock (kinda, actually a NA crank) and my car makes upwards of 550 at the wheels.
Now would I rather have a built shortblock? Of course I would. Is it going to break one day? Of course it is unless I can get the funds to put a nice shortblock together before that happens (probably not going to happen), but a TA block is a bit overkill for a guy with a 67 turbo like I have.
Ooooooooooouuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuccccccccccccccccccchhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
I've been lucky enough that I've never been around catastrophic failure like that (knock on wood), but looking at these photo's makes me wonder where the pistons are??
I've been lucky enough that I've never been around catastrophic failure like that (knock on wood), but looking at these photo's makes me wonder where the pistons are??
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
If you're not going to go for a complete forged assembly with at least steel caps I'd save the time and aggravation and source a used stock short block. Jasper will not be better than a stock shortblock and it will likely be punched .040 over. I've taken apart 2 jaspers. Nothing special. I'll take a stock over theirs all day long
I don't know what's the budget he has. It's always easy to spend someone else's money. One thing for sure, what was in there wasn't rebuilt properly.
So the two questions are how much are you budgeted to spend and how much power do you want it to live too. I kept hearing 550-600 rwhp and this type of power on a V6 doesnt happen on junk thrown together. Example the broken crank.
A lot of us have gone very far and fast with limited parts. In the end I wish you luck on your decision. You get what you pay for on these motors.
I would take a nice low mile used shortblock over a Jasper rebuild any day. Be glad you didn't take out the transmission
So the two questions are how much are you budgeted to spend and how much power do you want it to live too. I kept hearing 550-600 rwhp and this type of power on a V6 doesnt happen on junk thrown together. Example the broken crank.
A lot of us have gone very far and fast with limited parts. In the end I wish you luck on your decision. You get what you pay for on these motors.
I would take a nice low mile used shortblock over a Jasper rebuild any day. Be glad you didn't take out the transmission
From what people r telling me (Otto,bison). A factory unopened shortblock with good miles will take that much power for the 1-2 summers b4 I can go forged easily So building one or having one built us not an option. Not to mention I need to have it done and ready for Otto by in 8 days
x2
that's why i'm saying don't go cheap cheap on your replacement. if this had been at the track, and you join the "drive over the crank" club (not a member myself, yet) you'll then be replacing not only another engine, but also a trans.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
I was recommending using a stock block with forged internals for what Onalky has in mind and the amount of money he has to do the job. And yes I believe that will hold up pretty well.
The reason I suggested the TA block was only because I feel ( flames will fly after this) that the Stage blocks do crack and that is more money down the tubes when you have to buy another block.
And once you max out a 67 turbo what do we all do? Get a bigger one!!
Dude, you need to PM WesS and see if this bottom end is still available...it is a complete steal for the price man, built buttom end girdled, you just have to assemble it. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/parts-sale/342359-86-87-parts.html
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