Big letdown.....

[Superrmario]

I would say that is a real knock , the SM was telling the truth , that my friend is rod knocking for sure , SAD FACE !!!!! plus you will still have oil pressure with a rod bearing out .

For sure sad face..

Could your belt tensioner be failing? Pull the belt off, and start her up and see if the noise continues.

I find it amazing that you even have to run alky at such low boost levels!! Or that the engine could be hurt at those levels!! What octane is your premium fuel where you're at???????

Pulled belt, same sound. stethoscope on the tensioner with belt on and I heard no knocking. I was told that the Boost was down because he was breaking in Cylinder 6 and the new turbo. I run 93 in My Turbo Focus, my Mustang and in the 1 fill I put in the Buick. LOL

be aware when listed for sale it stated having melted down #6 piston and all pistons were replaced , how long ago this was i dont know but could have been other issues from the meltown beyond pistons or what condition that caused the meltdown went unfixed after the repair ...you say when you got it o2s were very low , could have been hurt boosting it lean either by you or prev owner

In the listing the "rebuild" was done 10k ago and the previous owner was told that all the stuff listed was replaced but I couldn't obtain any receipts for it unfortunately. I actually did call the person that the previous owner purchased the car from.. He hasn't called me back. I am now not surprised.... I'm looking for the documentation, where the engine was rebuilt at etc.

The #6 piston and rings were replaced per the ad, but when speaking to the guy who worked on it, I was told just piston 6 was re-ringed and the cylinder inspected. I attached the potion of that receipt as a photo. The guy that worked on the cylinder 6 issue has been more than helpful. Awesome dude and I can't say he hasn't gone out of his way for me being that he never met me and took all my questions in stride and gave honest opinions.

Yes, the O2's were low when I first got the car which I am sure could have contributed to a meting issue, but a rod bearing?

 

[TT/Ameasap]

I heard clunk......Not Tap....Pull your oil filter and pour it out with a light shining on it to see any particles. If so, it is internal damage.

 

[pacecarta]

1

 

[Pronto]

Well, the engine has some good parts on it. Don't know if I would bother to pull the pan. From it's history it sounds like there is more going on inside. They reused the old rod, maybe it's bent.

 

[QwikStop]

I had a cracked flywheel make that kinda noise before, you can check that by power braking it and see if the noise goes away

 

[Superrmario]

10k ago there no sense mentioning the shop but yes he's a good guy .
, reciept shows 1 used piston/ rod , seller stated all pistons were done on CL ad

I didn't mention the shop. The person who did it 10k ago is unknown... I only have a receipt for who did Cylinder 6 200 miles ago and he was a huge help. Awesome guy for sure.

I have the CL ad backed up and reviewed it after I started getting the knock. Only #6 was done, I have a box of rings in the trunk with 5 cylinder sets left.

For sale 1987 Buick T-type with rare factory asto roof. Like the Grand National but more rare. Motor has less then 10,000 miles on rebuild, all bearings, rings, cam, etc, were replaced. Motor was just refreshed and tuned by XXXXXXX. Had an issue with alcohol injection(pump went new pump in car now) and the #6 piston failed. XXXXXX tore the motor down and replaced the piston and rings, and replaced the seals and gaskets.
Have receipts for $,6000 put into the car in the past 4 months less then 2,000 miles. Has the following brand new parts TE60 turbo, 3" downpipe with dump tube. 60# injectors with matching custom chip, Alky injection with new pump, LS MAF sensor with translater, O2 sensor, Hallman Pro RX boost knob, gas tank, Walbro fuel pump, fuel pump sending kit all professionaly installed over the summer have the receipts. Also has hot wire kit for fuel pump,adjustable fuel regulator, New F-body radiator and fan set up, front mount intercooler, KYB shocks, adjustable air bags, pinion snubber, Boxed adjustable rear contol arms, Level 10 trans with 9" Vigilante convertor, 145 mph speedometer calibrated correctly, aluminum Kenny Bell valve covers, line lock, scanmaster, boost, volts, oil, water, exhaust temp guages, monster tach. Car has a custom stereo system with DVD player, 2 amps and Bass box mounted in the trunk. Car has power windows, door locks, astro roof, A/C, cruise, etc. The windows go up and down real nice and quick astor roof opens and closes fine, interior and body are clean, headliner is not sagging, 1 spot of rust on right rear quarter panel and a few small bubbles on the drivers door. The car will run mid to low 11s all day long. New bumper fillers front and rear just needs the body work and paint done. Have new weatherstripping that goes with the car for the body work. Has wiring and switch ran for electric exhaust dump tube as well. I'm sure there is more I may be missing still. Car runs and drives great, drive train is all re-done. I have close to $15,000 into the car with the price of purchase price $12,000 or B/O, cash in person only. May consider trading for a 1970-72 chevelle of the same value. No scammers or alternate emails not shipping the car or taking your check etc.

 

[earlbrown]

I have the CL ad backed up and reviewed it after I started getting the knock. Only #6 was done, I have a box of rings in the trunk with 5 cylinder sets left.

That sounds like a "patch it up so I can sell it" job.

 

[Superrmario]

So here is my dilemma.

Find a 109 shortblock or build this one with forged internals even though it wont be at the track every weekend. The car is going to be a street car / cruise night car for the most part. But I want the ability to take it to the track on a set of Drag Radials a few times a season and have a little fun on the street as well.

 

[earlbrown]

Right now, you have to get your learn on before you can make a game plan. If it is a bottom end knock, once you verify that, the engine is going to have to come out. Once it's apart, THEN you can formulate a plan. You just can't be accurate right now until you check everything for collateral damage.

A decent back up plan would be to find a (provable) good running engine and swap them out. Then take your time rebuilding the current unit the way you want it. 10 years ago that was a pretty easy thing to do, but notsomuch these days.

 

[TLIMITED]

Check for a cracked fly wheel first.Will not take a few minutes if dust cover is off.Look for cracks where it bolts to the crank!!

 

[Superrmario]

Right now, you have to get your learn on before you can make a game plan. If it is a bottom end knock, once you verify that, the engine is going to have to come out. Once it's apart, THEN you can formulate a plan. You just can't be accurate right now until you check everything for collateral damage.

A decent back up plan would be to find a (provable) good running engine and swap them out. Then take your time rebuilding the current unit the way you want it. 10 years ago that was a pretty easy thing to do, but notsomuch these days.

I agree completely and I am slowly but surely picking up things here and there with this car as I know it is a finicky SOB. LOL

The engine is coming out regardless and is going to a reputable builder that I was pointed to in my area. Unfortunately I don't have the room in my two car garage right now to fit a second car to pull apart. (27 years of my in-laws nonsense is sitting in that bay).

Honestly, this isn't my first rodeo with this nonsense . Built the engine that is in my current Foxbody, built the engine that was in my Monte, in my Camaro as well.

I'm struggling with this car because I just got it and didn't even have a chance to get familiar with it other than what I already know and learned so far. The questions about the knocking sound is because I read there is a host of other tidbits with this car that would cause a similar knocking sound.

I truly felt that it was a bottom end issue from the get go. Been there, and done that in the past.

I appreciate the help man!

 

[20psiofevil]

I spun a bearing and it sounded like this. ls swap time!! lol

 

[LSTTYPE]

Check your flywheel! That's exactly how mine sounded when mine cracked. Don't start tearing it all apart without checking for loose torque converter bolts or a cracked flywheel.

 

[hiboom]

30 minutes !! ?? I just got back up stairs from pulling mine. Took substantially more than an hour, probably closer to two. But then again, I pulled the crossover, AND the starter to make access easier.

2 post lift 1/4 electric ratchet drain oil spin out 20 bolts 30 minutes piece of cake lol

 

[earlbrown]

I'm struggling with this car because I just got it and didn't even have a chance to get familiar with it other than what I already know and learned so far.

I call that "the newbie curse". The problem is these cars still haul ass when they aren't right. And the time to blow them apart is less than the time it takes to learn not to blow them apart.


Once you get it right, they really aren't as finicky and the reputation lets on. The trick is to get them right before they hurt themselves.

 

[PSID6]

Start the car and pull one plug wire at a time and blimp the throttle until you hear the noise quiet down. I believe you lost a rod bearing also but at least you will know what hole you are dealing with. Same thing happen to me but I also lost the crank...it couldn't be saved.

 

[QwikStop]

Check for a cracked fly wheel first.Will not take a few minutes if dust cover is off.Look for cracks where it bolts to the crank!!

This is a good idea

 

[ITSAV6]

the rod end is probably out of round already so resizing them would be a good investment

 

[Pronto]

Probably why it failed in 200 miles.

 

[Phoneguy]

IF you find that it is indeed a rod bearing make sure you send the crank out to be checked even if it appears not to be hurt. When I melted mine I sent it out for a rebuild, the crank was not checked, took out the number 4 rod bearing in about 40 miles. Found that the crank was bent in the original meltdown. Had the crank not been sent out i would have had another failure pretty quickly. Hopefully you find something other than a rod knocking....Good luck !!

Bryan