Big letdown.....

[earlbrown]

get it put together, and put together right, and you'll be able to beat on it forever.


In a few years you'll be making fun of newbs and using quotes before you know it

 

[BEATAV8]

get it put together, and put together right, and you'll be able to beat on it forever.


In a few years you'll be making fun of news and using quotes before you know it

This is 100% true. When it's running right it will take one hell of a beating and just keep doing it over and over. I got one here with nearly 170K on the clock, never been apart. She sees 32lbs of boost every time she's driven. So there is hope, just get the bottom end straightened out and start in the basement just like you were doing.

 

[Superrmario]

Car is going down to Dan Smith in Camden tomorrow...

 

[TurboBuRick]

keep us posted...

 

[Superrmario]

Will do fellas

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[Justin85]

It seems that most new owners get hit with some type of bull shit car. When I got mine I had to do a full rebuild right away. Maybe it's the fact people know they messed up then instantly sell a turd and say it was "rebuilt" One thing for sure is I will never buy a "rebuilt car again"

 

[earlbrown]

^this. Every time I see someone post "I just bought a car with only 5/50/500 miles on a fresh engine", I cringe a little....

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

It seems that most new owners get hit with some type of bull shit car. When I got mine I had to do a full rebuild right away. Maybe it's the fact people know they messed up then instantly sell a turd and say it was "rebuilt" One thing for sure is I will never buy a "rebuilt car again"

I was a victim of the same buy a year ago , rebuilt ready to go yea right , thousands of dollars later before getting my car to finally run like it supposed to , that was one reason I bought a unmolested car the second time so if I screw it up I can blame it on myself and not buying a pig in the poke .

 

[Jerryl]

Seems like 90% of people have a similar experience. I certainly don't consider myself an expert, just informed, and let me share this: you can't even trust an expert sometimes. Expert is defined as: someone who makes a living working on these cars.

 

[Superrmario]

It seems that most new owners get hit with some type of bull shit car. When I got mine I had to do a full rebuild right away. Maybe it's the fact people know they messed up then instantly sell a turd and say it was "rebuilt" One thing for sure is I will never buy a "rebuilt car again"

I was a victim of the same buy a year ago , rebuilt ready to go yea right , thousands of dollars later before getting my car to finally run like it supposed to , that was one reason I bought a unmolested car the second time so if I screw it up I can blame it on myself and not buying a pig in the poke .

I guess I lived and learned LOL

Last time I purchased a used toy was my 91 Fox Hatch. I have known the car for years and brought it from my good friends father. It was mostly stock other than Baer Brakes all around, suspension and exhaust. I knew from the get go the engine was coming out as it had 190k on it so I fortunately didn't suffer the hit like I did with the Buick.

Currently waiting on AAA to come get the car, then road trip to Camden....

 

[Jay J]

Better days are coming, Mario!

 

[Superrmario]

Better days are coming, Mario!

Sure are man. Thx!

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[Superrmario]

So I got pretty much the verdict. Engine is out and completely torn down.

Motor doesn't look like it was ever "rebuilt" as the second to previous owner said it was. (not the guy I purchased it from, but the guy he did)

With that said:

Rod bearing cylinder 5 rod bearing failed. That was obviously my knock....
Damage to the crank may be un-turnable, and may need to be replaced. He is going to try like hell to see if he can get away with it without cutting too much off. If it does come to that, i will just get it replaced.
Cam lobes are rounding off and not looking healthy and pretty much wiped out. He said it was the original cam that was in the car.
Pistons were very loose in the cylinder bore (which tells me the engine is high mileage and took a hell of a beating).. Said that since they were loose, he would rather bore the motor and replace with Forged pistons.
Original Valve springs obviously needs to be replaced.
He said, if I wanted to go into the heads and start porting / new valves etc I can. Heads are bone stock.
Crank sensor was the factory original from 1987 LOL..
While he is there, replace the water pump which i would have done anyhow
Timing chain and gears were the original Nylon and needs to go to double roller with button.
Alt bracket is cracked due to the engine strap being too tight.

Basically a full rebuild needed.

Oddly enough I want to give big props the the guy I purchased it from. He has been one hell of a help and is going to throw me a few bones to help get the engine finished.

 

[earlbrown]

The cam going flat was probably the reason everything loosed up, not the victim. No need to go double roller unless you're going to run a big ass roller cam with stiff springs.

Get your machinist to find the worst cylinder and let me know the loosest part of the loosest cylinder.

the original springs are probably what caused the cam to take a beating in the first place (if they have a cup on the bottom of the spring, they probably are stock)

Bowl porting the heads are well worth the money. No need to go berzek spending money on them. You have a turbo to stuff air through the ports.
Back cut the stock exhaust valves, or get a set of SS Ferrea valves. With the Ferrea's you can run exhaust seals.

Make sure to pull EVERY oil galley plug out of the block and CLEAN THE LIVING SHIT out of EVERY nook and cranny in the block.....

then do it again. Cam debris can hide in corners and cause you to do this again.


oh, yeah. NEVER use your existing oil cooler again.

 

[Superrmario]

The cam going flat was probably the reason everything loosed up, not the victim. No need to go double roller unless you're going to run a big ass roller cam with stiff springs.

Get your machinist to find the worst cylinder and let me know the loosest part of the loosest cylinder.

the original springs are probably what caused the cam to take a beating in the first place (if they have a cup on the bottom of the spring, they probably are stock)

Bowl porting the heads are well worth the money. No need to go berzek spending money on them. You have a turbo to stuff air through the ports.
Back cut the stock exhaust valves, or get a set of SS Ferrea valves. With the Ferrea's you can run exhaust seals.

Make sure to pull EVERY oil galley plug out of the block and CLEAN THE LIVING SHIT out of EVERY nook and cranny in the block.....

then do it again. Cam debris can hide in corners and cause you to do this again.


oh, yeah. NEVER use your existing oil cooler again.

Big thanks earl..

Funny thing he said he wants to replace the Exhaust valves too.

I will get a new cooler as well. I know it wont hurt, but do you think I should run a Turbo saver as well since the bearing and cam is shot?

I am going to PM ya...

 

[we4Mateo]

The cam going flat was probably the reason everything loosed up, not the victim. No need to go double roller unless you're going to run a big ass roller cam with stiff springs.

Get your machinist to find the worst cylinder and let me know the loosest part of the loosest cylinder.

the original springs are probably what caused the cam to take a beating in the first place (if they have a cup on the bottom of the spring, they probably are stock)

Bowl porting the heads are well worth the money. No need to go berzek spending money on them. You have a turbo to stuff air through the ports.
Back cut the stock exhaust valves, or get a set of SS Ferrea valves. With the Ferrea's you can run exhaust seals.

Make sure to pull EVERY oil galley plug out of the block and CLEAN THE LIVING SHIT out of EVERY nook and cranny in the block.....

then do it again. Cam debris can hide in corners and cause you to do this again.


oh, yeah. NEVER use your existing oil cooler again.

Do the T/A valves allow for an exhaust seal or how do you tell? Truthfully, I wasn't going to do exhaust seals on the new build as the heads I'm using are pretty tight around the new valves anyway. Or are exh seals just required over 500hp or something? TIA

 

[Pronto]

Well, at least you will know what's in the engine now. You might want to look into a forged rotating assembly from one of the vendors here. Good luck with the build.

 

[earlbrown]

Look at the valve just below the keeper groove. The stock exhaust valve has a step on it that acts as an 'oil shelf'. Putting the money into cutting guides and installing seals is wasted with stock ex valve. The step starves the seal, smokes it, and then it goes back to working like stock.

Installing aftermarket valves without a step or seals (on top of guide wear) will smoke the guides and stems as exhaust energy will shoot up the valve-to-guide clearance. During teardown they will be nice and black with linear witness marks.

 

[Superrmario]

For those that like destruction....

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[earlbrown]

wow. I was expecting much more. Odd that someone reused a stock pickup too. It's a shame because some of the debris probably made it through that trap door.