83 Regal into Turbo

We need Charlie to chime in here. The differences from the turbo carb aside from being a feedback computer controlled carb it has an electronic solenoid to bump up "enrichen" the fuel mixture when the load is on and boost is up.

Rich can probibly answer this question better than I can but at the bottom you'll find a few pics of the differences. I highlighted where the differences are and the last pic is of an E4ME base that can be modified to work if you're willing to put it in a drill press or have a steady hand to drill the port. The highlighted tube on the front is the turbo carb.

how would you do that?

My thoughts exactly...I did post a diagram of how Holley suggested i do it...go back about 10 posts...or even better yet I will try to attach what they sent me.. i am still trying to figure it out..where to hook up that vac line anyway ....hope the attachment comes through..

A quick search of the forum led to this excellent link:
petesbuick.html

My explanation:
Most carbs have a circuit to adjust fuel mixture based on load. The Q-jet uses a metering rod/power piston setup. At cruise or deceleration, there is a lot of vacuum that will pull the metering rods into the main jets to lean the mixture. At WOT, vacuum is near zero, the metering rods move out of the main jets, and the mixture is rich.
Our draw-thrus will lean out at 60-80% part throttle.....there is still enough vacuum at the power piston port to keep the metering rods too lean. The PECV valve will switch the vacuum signal to atmosphere (zero vacuum) so the metering rods will go full rich.

Adam...the Holley uses the Power valve to do the enrichment, right? So that should also be run thru a similar vacuum switch?

You just missed this turbo Q-jet auction. Good deal!:
REBUILT QUADRAJET CARBURETOR CHEVY BUICK TURBO 3.8L V6 : eBay Motors (item 270518083161 end time Jan-29-10 11:50:48 PST)

You dn't need a specific turbo carb if you know about how it works. No one ever posted the way it's designed so I did it in another thread. I still have to do the rest of the work so you can see how it works.

What you are talking about here is Vacumn operated secondaries....That is the carb that holley recomends to use.. I orginally put one of these on my motor, it was a 750CFm and it really drowned my motor...way to big of the car.. not to mention the carb self destructed because I had to boil it out so long to remove all the crud that it destroyed the carb....It was a cheepie I purchased on E-bay...at least I got good fuel bowels... If I would of had my choice I would of went with the vacumn operated secondaries...but you know that is really like an automatic trans...it does the thinking for you.. I think that a mechanically operated secondaries would take a little longer to setup but then be like rock solid...That vacumn stuff gets crud in it and sticks and is sluggish and has a lot of problems....price you have to pay to get lazy man...

The factory Q-jet is rated at 800 CFM so I doubt that the 750 was the problem. It's a jetting issue or a timing issue with the carb, not the distributor.
 

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Smokin the Buick

My holley 650 has a vac port in the same position as this rochester, so would I still have to modify it ...it goes right to the power valve too.. Your probably right about that 750 cfm...the car was probably running at 3000 RPm at idle, when I had to pull it off... ..It must of been dumping a lot of gas even before that point.. Is there a different PV I would have to use for a turbo ?? I called holley and they said the carb came off an Olds 350 engine
 
Smokin the Buick

Just read that PDF file ...looks like I will have to get a distributor with a mechanical advance....I might still have my orginal distributor laying around...but that was controlled by the computer...I am wondering if I could use that or would I have to get one with just mechanical advance.. ??:eek:
 
Vince, Holley is CRAZY, Didn't they realize they never had any of their carb on any Olds.
You would be suprised at how a distributor with no advance at all can beform on a turbo buick. A Vac/Mech or just a Mech only distributor IS nice to use.

Fuel is KEY, that is the #1 secret I can give to everyone about using or wanting to use carbs. It isn't going to matter weather your carb has vacuum or mechanical secondaries if the fuel isn't present.
 
Smokin the Buick

Yea, I think you are right on the holley...I'm think back now..they mostly put them on fords and a bunch of trucks.. They probably ment a replacement for that car... Good to hear a normal distributor will work.. I will give it a try.. I have 2 for that buick now ...the vac advance one and the standard one that came with the car..
Did you ever hear of anybody actually polishing a early 80's turbo manifold ?? I was just wondering if they came out well...its aluminum right so I guess aluminum is aluminum and you can polish it.. Still reading up on turbos...3 book now.. reading up on the tuning of it too.. but most applys for the later model with the fuel injection... they are talkin individual cylinder monotering now.. I mean temp, gas/ spark o2 and you name it.. Its a heavy setup now and a ton of numbers and charts to read... Of course its no good to me without a computer..:)
 
Are you talking about polishing inside or outside of the intake? Making a shine on aluminum isn't hard but polished parts hold heat in more which can cause detonation issues.
 
Smoking the buick

Yes I was talking about the outside... are you kidding about shinning the outside up?/ I never heard that.. Why is that?? I am all ears.. I see alot of Eldebrock are done like that...Would painting it black get rid of heat or take it in.. ?? :)
 
A polished surface will reject heat if it directed at it but if it's on the outside then it rejects it back inside. Things like chrome valve covers can cause over heating issues and polishing an intake for a turbo car will cause even more problems.
 
Smokin the Buick

Makes sense, I have been doing some diging on Heat coatings...One company said to use a Thermal Dispersent Black Coating on the top to get rid of the heat and on the bottom of the manifold to use a Thermanally Lubricated Thermal Barrier to block the heat from even geting into the manifold.. They had some tests postated and with coating the exhaust pipes and intake they were to reduce under the hood temptures between 20 and 30 % But the stuff is expensive and a lot is baked on, they say that the coating is very very chip resistant. Just to do my intake would be $142.00 plus shipping. And he was the cheapest guy I could find.
There must be a product that I could spray myself ....will keep looking...Thanks for the heads up on that...wasn't looking foward to polishing that manifold anyway:biggrin:
 
Here is your Intake Vince,

If it looks good enough send me your address and the email address you want me to invoice too. manifold will go out today.

36f.jpg


9c1.jpg


c99.jpg


5f3.jpg


:biggrin:A.j.
 
Smokin the Buick

AJ..Manifold looks great...nothing looks broken...Go ahead and ship it.. Just send the bill to the same address as the shipping address. Vince Iacouzze, 1607 Pine Ridge, Bushkill, PA 18324....Thanks a million...You just saved me a ton of fabrication and head scratching..:biggrin:
 
Its on page 2....holley says to connect the vacumn line to the lower intake...I will have to wait till I get the manifold from Dr. F. to see if there is a vacumn port there... check out that pdf file I attached on page 2..
Hook it to the turbo bell where the boost guage hooks up
 
Lots of good info here.. Mat, that photo of that adaptor plate would actually work.. you don't have a link for that plate do you...is it still for sale on e-bay??
One problem that I have read about with the carb though...The power valve...if it senses no vacumn it wont work.. where can I pick up a low vacumn souce...if I could make some kind of a vacumn reducer and plug into that it would work...I should give the guys at Holley a call and see what they think since I will be using a holley carb.
i dont have a link for it anymore but i will try to find it again for you. i just went to page 2 to find the pdf and i found that message sorry for not getting back to you sooner.
 
Makes sense, I have been doing some diging on Heat coatings...One company said to use a Thermal Dispersent Black Coating on the top to get rid of the heat and on the bottom of the manifold to use a Thermanally Lubricated Thermal Barrier to block the heat from even geting into the manifold.. They had some tests postated and with coating the exhaust pipes and intake they were to reduce under the hood temptures between 20 and 30 % But the stuff is expensive and a lot is baked on, they say that the coating is very very chip resistant. Just to do my intake would be $142.00 plus shipping. And he was the cheapest guy I could find.
There must be a product that I could spray myself ....will keep looking...Thanks for the heads up on that...wasn't looking foward to polishing that manifold anyway:biggrin:

Contact rmar (Ronnie Martin) on the board. He does power coating for a living and should be able to give you the info you need about it. He's doing the powder coating on the turbo, valve covers, and alt brackets for me. He should be able to help you and is in Centrailia Il-noise (LOL) so he's not that far from you.
 
boy your just chomping at the bit to get a bigger wheel arent ya? have you gotten a better turbine yet matt?
no im just seeing if anything will work. im still in it for the trade. i need your address so i can send you my 301 for your 301 housing and blades. i sent you a pm a while back i dont know if you got it.

[charlief1 Quote:
Originally Posted by mat231v6
sorry for all the dumb questions but will any of these blades work in my 301?
Wow! NEW Performance T3 60 Turbo Compressor Wheel : eBay Motors (item 400055174315 end time Feb-05-10 10:36:36 PST)

Wow! NEW Performance T3 50 Turbo Compressor Wheel : eBay Motors (item 400055174929 end time Feb-05-10 10:39:36 PST)

Sorry but neither one of those are for the 301 turbo Matt. Just wait until Aj send you the swap he's told you he'll do. /QUOTE]

i will
 
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