2004r 500+hp experience?

[tattoochucky]

Does anyone out there have a 2004r and a 500+hp motor, if so what has your experience been? Have you drag raced it, driven it daily, had problems, worked good, needed a rebuild every 20,000 miles, 40,000miles or more, do you abuse it or baby it? Any info would be appreciated, thanks!

 

[Grumpy]

Does anyone out there have a 2004r and a 500+hp motor, if so what has your experience been? Have you drag raced it, driven it daily, had problems, worked good, needed a rebuild every 20,000 miles, 40,000miles or more, do you abuse it or baby it? Any info would be appreciated, thanks!

around 750 RWHP here in a STREET GN ... We have put over 8k on it this summer (15k totally) . Car ran 9.9 @ 138+ in street trim .. Was used everyday in the summer unless it was monsooning out (ya we did get caught in a few storms) . We do take em apart and "look" at them around 10/15k as long as they feel "right".
... we ran a 450hp car for years (mid 11 driver/beater) .. Every few years we would take them apart.. seal and clutch em

 

[jasjamz]

around 750 RWHP here in a STREET GN ... We have put over 8k on it this summer (15k totally) . Car ran 9.9 @ 138+ in street trim .. Was used everyday in the summer unless it was monsooning out (ya we did get caught in a few storms) . We do take em apart and "look" at them around 10/15k as long as they feel "right".
... we ran a 450hp car for years (mid 11 driver/beater) .. Every few years we would take them apart.. seal and clutch em

Did you ever have to use and special type of trans fluid or the coolers with electric fans and thermostats? Did you ever compare the wear and tear on parts with the use of a non-lockup versus a lockup unit? And one last question...transbrakes...your opinion on them in a 200.

 

[bison]

Does anyone out there have a 2004r and a 500+hp motor, if so what has your experience been? Have you drag raced it, driven it daily, had problems, worked good, needed a rebuild every 20,000 miles, 40,000miles or more, do you abuse it or baby it? Any info would be appreciated, thanks!

200-4R here by me with CK billet parts throughout except the output shaft. Dual fed, 300 psi line pressure, rollerized throughout, blueprinted direct drum with 6 Raybestos clutches, billet apply piston and other modifications done to prevent inertial spin out of direct spring assembly when shifted at high rpm. I have over 30 WOT 2-3 ratio changes at 800+hp on it and have had no problems. I have not inspected it since i dont see a need to because the data logs are still showing very quick shifts under power. I have tested several vb codes on the same trans including BR, CZ, CR8, and KC along with varying governor assemblies. The trans has about 1400 miles on it at this point. i dont drive the car much and when i do its hammer time. I run a very efficient PTC 9.5" NL converter that is almost unbelievable as far as its ability to spool the turbo down low and couple up top. Cruise rpm at 65mph is about 2000. 4% slip at 140mph. Shift rpm is around 6200. At 600-700hp id imagine this trans would last hundreds of quarter passes before it would even need to be inspected.

 

[boostingbuick]

Mine makes 550 rwhp and has been in the car for 8 years. 100+ passes and 15k on the street. I just used GM trans fluid with an ext. trans cooler. I use a stage right brake and have had no issue with it. I did convert my filter to a rear sump style to keep from having air suck in. I run a CK non lock up and like it. Its a little tight but love it on the street. Just takes a few moments longer on the brake. But can leave with 20+ lbs with a big turbo. I have changed the fluid about every two years.

BUT the key with a 200 is not so much the parts, but who builds it. That is the biggest factor with them lasting. Just because they have rebuilt 200 for everyday cars does not mean they can build a performance trans. You would be surprised how much it cost to save a buck with having a everyday shop build one.

 

[Grumpy]

Did you ever have to use and special type of trans fluid or the coolers with electric fans and thermostats? Did you ever compare the wear and tear on parts with the use of a non-lockup versus a lockup unit? And one last question...transbrakes...your opinion on them in a 200.

we run some kind of synthetic junk.. B&M trans cooler ..thats it. we had the LU one apart to see how things were wearing.. It looked great !! Transbrakes are fun on the street playing.. really haven't givin it hell yet on the track :frown: We are still playing with a NON LU to.. No conclusions yet as far as racing with it.. Street driving (like 6/10k miles a year) I feel ya can't beat a LU .. my "own opinion" of course

 

[Grumpy]

BUT the key with a 200 is not so much the parts, but who builds it. That is the biggest factor with them lasting.

BINGO !!!! we have a WINNER !!!:biggrin:

 

[jdpolzin]

200-4R here by me with CK billet parts throughout except the output shaft. Dual fed, 300 psi line pressure, rollerized throughout, blueprinted direct drum with 6 Raybestos clutches, billet apply piston and other modifications done to prevent inertial spin out of direct spring assembly when shifted at high rpm. I have over 30 WOT 2-3 ratio changes at 800+hp on it and have had no problems. I have not inspected it since i dont see a need to because the data logs are still showing very quick shifts under power. I have tested several vb codes on the same trans including BR, CZ, CR8, and KC along with varying governor assemblies. The trans has about 1400 miles on it at this point. i dont drive the car much and when i do its hammer time. I run a very efficient PTC 9.5" NL converter that is almost unbelievable as far as its ability to spool the turbo down low and couple up top. Cruise rpm at 65mph is about 2000. 4% slip at 140mph. Shift rpm is around 6200. At 600-700hp id imagine this trans would last hundreds of quarter passes before it would even need to be inspected.

How do you feel about the different valve bodies? How did each change the shift pattern? What is the closest to the BRF in your opinion?

 

[bison]

How do you feel about the different valve bodies? How did each change the shift pattern? What is the closest to the BRF in your opinion?

None were the exact BR calibration. Even the BR had some tweaks that altered the shift points and kick downs. KZ, CQ, and CR with their corresponding governors arent too far off from a BR but the activity at different throttle angles varies. BR has the latest light throttle 3-4 of all tested. I havent found a true winner yet but the CR8 (its was over the counter vb) is very promising for a 6200+rpm application. It had a 3-1 kickdown at 48mph. The 1-2 shift was fine up to about 650hp but after that it ran away in 1st and would not up shift. The 2-3 remained around 6200. Im playing with the calibration currently trying to get a 1-2 around 6200. CK sent me some shift valve springs, valves and sleeves. If that doesnt work ill look into the TV limit circuit but its a very sensitive circuit to play with. For 5800-5900@650hp the KC wins hands down. Its very active and predictable when mashing the peddle and gives a nice shift rpm when used with a stock GN governor. This is assuming an effiicient converter too. Loose converter will need a heavier governor or it will not upshift

 

[jdpolzin]

None were the exact BR calibration. Even the BR had some tweaks that altered the shift points and kick downs. KZ, CQ, and CR with their corresponding governors arent too far off from a BR but the activity at different throttle angles varies. BR has the latest light throttle 3-4 of all tested. I havent found a true winner yet but the CR8 (its was over the counter vb) is very promising for a 6200+rpm application. It had a 3-1 kickdown at 48mph. The 1-2 shift was fine up to about 650hp but after that it ran away in 1st and would not up shift. The 2-3 remained around 6200. Im playing with the calibration currently trying to get a 1-2 around 6200. CK sent me some shift valve springs, valves and sleeves. If that doesnt work ill look into the TV limit circuit but its a very sensitive circuit to play with. For 5800-5900@650hp the KC wins hands down. Its very active and predictable when mashing the peddle and gives a nice shift rpm when used with a stock GN governor. This is assuming an effiicient converter too. Loose converter will need a heavier governor or it will not upshift

Have you thought about trying to drill holes in the govenor to control shift points?

 

[bison]

Have you thought about trying to drill holes in the govenor to control shift points?

Ive been drilling holes or adding weight to governors for over 10 years but its only for fine tuning once you get the upshifts consistent at all ratio changes. It wont do anything for a late/no 1-2 when other shifts are on time. Drilling holes will only aggravate a late/no shift

 

[charlief1]

So glad I decided to look at this thread. Good info for someone looking to build one in the future. Thanks.

 

[ghall]

BUT the key with a 200 is not so much the parts, but who builds it. That is the biggest factor with them lasting. Just because they have rebuilt 200 for everyday cars does not mean they can build a performance trans. You would be surprised how much it cost to save a buck with having a everyday shop build one.

This is SO true. Boostingbuick built mine, i have some miles and a full track day w/ a 550/hp set-up on my 200r4. The best it has ever shifted!!!



Geoff

 

[Otto J]

Heck i have a stock 65k mile trans in a car making just under 500HP at the crank,it has the proper shift calibrations done to the proper valve body and runs flawlessly,has over 50 dragstrip runs and countless street beating for hte last 15k or so.

Proper calibration is everything!!

 

[stagemonster]

Ive got 5 hard years on mine