1987 pro-touring grand national, from the ground up

Wow....I am drooling! Man, you have an endless amount of incredible changes to your GN. Everything is done with much taste, and is very clean. Keep it up and keep us updated as you have been doing.

When you get it on the track or highway, post some vids for us to see.



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hello; The climate control that came with some of our cars is a digital touch deal. It's a whole diferant look to what is in your car and IMO would add to it. There's no sliding controls but I'm sure you know about them.
IBBY
 
hello; The climate control that came with some of our cars is a digital touch deal. It's a whole diferant look to what is in your car and IMO would add to it. There's no sliding controls but I'm sure you know about them.
IBBY

I don't think so. The only one I've ever seen was a retrofit that was very involved into an el camino here in Vegas. I talked to the guy but it was to much work. Plus it will be hidden 99% of the time
 
hello; I don't know about GN but alot of T-Types definately have the touch devise from the factory. If the GN never came with it it was a mistake that GM made as it gives your controls a better look. I can't believe that GM never had them in the GN. One thing thou is you ever needed a blower resister the climate control one is over $200.00 just for the pc. I hope mine don't crap out.
IBBY
 
bleh, vintage air is too much work for too little gain lol. Electronic would be nice but I'm done modifying for now, I want to drive this damn thing!!

Ok, actual issue and question... Not sure if I should start another thread or ask here.

So, today was a tuning day. I got the IAC, TPS, Fuel pressure, blm's etc etc all within specs. I also tuned the transmission and set that up correctly. It has a heavy duty actuator and boost has been at about 17-18 pounds with the alky set at its base number, 6 I believe. Car starts, idles, and drives amazing. Has an amazing amount of power for 18 pounds of boost and I haven't seen any knock retard yet even with no alky at all but I had it on for the test drive to be safe.

So after getting it dialed in we went on a 20-30 mile test drive. Freeway, side streets, WOT, idling etc... Just to make sure all the bugs are out of the system. Then all of a sudden I get a weird shudder and the car starts sputtering and backfiring and dies. Car will start easily but immediately dies with a nice backfire. After it cools all the way off it starts and runs fine for a minute then the problems start back over as soon as it heats up.

Fuel pressure is fine, no malfunction codes, alky is working fine and tried turning it off, all the scanmaster readings are fine with the key off (car wont run long enough to check the numbers while its running). Balancer bolt is tight, camshaft sensor is tight, its not vapor locked, it has gas etc. Thought maybe the coil pack so we changed it but thats not it. I have a camshaft sensor and coil module on the way since those three seem to be the most likely culprits but were guessing.

Am I missing something, any ideas!??!
 
Mine started doing the same thing last Friday on my way home from work. Haven't had time to trouble shoot yet. Try to get to it this weekend I'll post if I find the problem. And please post if you find your problem.


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Mine started doing the same thing last Friday on my way home from work. Haven't had time to trouble shoot yet. Try to get to it this weekend I'll post if I find the problem. And please post if you find your problem.


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I will, hopefully someone will chime in with some information
 
Sounds like an overheating ignition module. When you changed the coil pack did you change the ign module (with a known good unit) too?
 
Check your MAP sensor, vacuum lines, etc.

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No, I didn't have one to test. I'll get one tomorrow. Funny thing was when I was changing it there was a bit of discoloration under the coil pack on the ign module, so hoping thats it.
 
My MAF made my car run like that but I see you have a newer one already. I have seen translators go bad too so that could be an issue as well. I agree with Earl though that it seems like ignition if it only does it hot but my MAF did the same thing; only when hot, would restart ok, and backfire if you tried to drive it. Check the AF numbers on the SM and see if they rise smoothly if you can keep it running while it's acting up.
 
Would like to see the hood latches on the hood. I'm around the corner from doing mine and would like to see what you did :)

I have ordered the Vintage air kit from Nick and boy is it expensive. I'm kinda at a point of no return with the dash and A/C box

already removed.
 
Well ignition coil and ignition module were changed, same issue. Tomorrow the crank sensor and camshaft sensor show up... After that I'm out of ideas lol
 
What O2 sensor are you using.. I chased an issue with a Brand New sensor.. Would run perfect in open loop. As soon as the car warmed up and went into closed loop the "fun" began, sputtering and stalling at idle, at stop signs and lights. The only way I caught it was I was watching O2s on the scanmaster and noticed that randomly the reading would drop out and go to 000. Put a new cheapie Bosch in and was fine. The culprit : a new ACDelco

aaron


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If you can keep it running long enough to idle I would wiggle the connects at each sensor and listen for a change in idle I can't count the number of problems that I have fixed on a variety of cars over the the last 10 years because of a wire or a connection problem
 
Put in the camshaft sensor and it still did it, replaced the crank sensor and its fixed. So for future searches the crank sensor will let the car start and move and is affected by heat, go figure
 
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