Voltage Issue

[Haynesie]

Hello,

I'm having a voltage issue, and I'm trying to diagnose the. When I run the car, the voltage meter stays around 10 volts, until I rev the engine then it goes to maybe 11 or 12, however the engine can't get to high of RPMs as the car then sputters (perhaps because its not getting enough power to plugs?). So far I have replaced the battery, replaced the positive and negative cables, and took the alternator off and had it tested at an autozone.

I'm not sure if this is related but my scan master also no longer works (perhaps also because the voltage is so low it can't get a signal?)

One thing that I felt was also odd was that when I disconnected the hotwire kit to the fuel pump and ran the pump off the normal wires, it smoothed out the idle, when I disconnected the pump completely the car ran much better...

If anyone has any advice as where to look next I would greatly appreciate...also the voltage light in the car does flicker on and off spuratically.

 

[TLIMITED]

Hello,

I'm having a voltage issue, and I'm trying to diagnose the. When I run the car, the voltage meter stays around 10 volts, until I rev the engine then it goes to maybe 11 or 12, however the engine can't get to high of RPMs as the car then sputters (perhaps because its not getting enough power to plugs?). So far I have replaced the battery, replaced the positive and negative cables, and took the alternator off and had it tested at an autozone.

I'm not sure if this is related but my scan master also no longer works (perhaps also because the voltage is so low it can't get a signal?)

One thing that I felt was also odd was that when I disconnected the hotwire kit to the fuel pump and ran the pump off the normal wires, it smoothed out the idle, when I disconnected the pump completely the car ran much better...

If anyone has any advice as where to look next I would greatly appreciate...also the voltage light in the car does flicker on and off spuratically.

Sounds like a voltage regulator in the alternator,as far as the scanmaster check all your fuses.

 

[Haynesie]

Hi,

Would the alternator still test as "good" even if the voltage regulator was bad?

 

[GNONYX]

I just finished rebuilding my alternator about couple of months ago, replaced both bearings, brushes, regulator, and diodes.
before rebuilt the voltage at idle was around 10.5v-12.50v, and after the rebuild the voltage at idle is around 13.25v-14.0v
Try taking the alternator to Advance Auto and see if the result are the same or different, and if the results are the same then it's time for a rebuilt job, or replacement.

 

[GNVenom]

A weak connection to the field "VOLTS" lamp will cause a low voltage condition.

Read:
http://www.installationinstructions.com/FYI/alternator_charging_tech.pdf

 

[Haynesie]

Cool, thanks John, I'll check the connection, the light still comes on, but since it is flickering from time to time, hopefully that is the issue!

 

[Haynesie]

Well I hooked up a multimeter to the red wire connection to the battery and the it read 11.9 volts at idle and stayed around there up till 2500 rpm (engine wont go any higher without sputtering).

So I think that means te regulator is fried?

Also I tried taking the gauge cluster out to take a look at the voltage light connection, any tricks to get the cluster to clear the steering wheel??

 

[GNONYX]

The black panel that is underneath the AC vent need to be taking off so you can loosen both nuts that holds the steering wheel column up. No need to remove the both nuts just drop down enough to clear dashboard.

 

[ALVAROG1983]

make sure all ur grounds are good did u get the scan master to work.

 

[turb0buick57]

Cool, thanks John, I'll check the connection, the light still comes on, but since it is flickering from time to time, hopefully that is the issue!

If its flickering while the cars running that is your issue. I would buy the field fix harness caspers Just posted in the thread above...issue solved.

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