Turbo bolts
- Thread starter Dr.rinco
- Start date
Reapersgbodys
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2017
Any muffler shop, or auto parts store will have them, exhaust flange bolts and springs is what I always called them, we used to stock them by the hundreds back in the day when we owned our “muffler man”, if they got pulled out of a customers car, they got replaced with new.
Anthony P
sharing knowledge with those who care to listen
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2007
they are shoulder screws...you could choose a replacement from a supply house like McMaster-Carr
OR
on ebay now there are some good, used original ones for $10 each, free shipping from a good seller
OR
post a thread in the parts wanted section.
Carbon in the turbine section and on the turbine wheel....there is always going to be carbon. unless you are going to remove the turbo and disassemble it, I'd leave it be. If you remove it from the header, you could wash down the turbine housing and turbine wheel with brake cleaner, but there will always be some carbon residue from engine operation and power enrichment under boost.
OR
on ebay now there are some good, used original ones for $10 each, free shipping from a good seller
OR
post a thread in the parts wanted section.
Carbon in the turbine section and on the turbine wheel....there is always going to be carbon. unless you are going to remove the turbo and disassemble it, I'd leave it be. If you remove it from the header, you could wash down the turbine housing and turbine wheel with brake cleaner, but there will always be some carbon residue from engine operation and power enrichment under boost.
Reapersgbodys
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2017
Also helps when you have to remove them again
Anthony P
sharing knowledge with those who care to listen
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2007
Looked at the 3rd pic again...need to run a tap thru the threads on the elbow where that boogered-up shoulder screw was removed. size is M10 x 1.50. use a plug tap, not a bottoming tap. It's a thru hole but the threads are not fully cut on exit. most tap and die sets only have plug taps where first 3 or 4 threads are tapered. just run the tap thru so that 2-3 tapered threads are sticking out. don't fully cut the threads in the elbow.
when the stock components are assembled with a new donut gasket (Felpro 60755), only the starting thread plus one thread on the shoulder screw emerge from the threaded hole on the elbow.
In pic 3, the boogered-up screw threads on left got rounded over from the remains of the the 8th thread left behind upon removal and/or deformed the rest of the threads upon removal. Threads on the right screw are pointed and have the correct pitch.
If you don't run a tap to chase the threads in the elbow, the replacement shoulder screw will get rounded threads as well.
You may be able to run a die over those damaged threads to correct the rounding over and cut a new 8th thread albeit that 8th thread won't be complete. Only need 4 threads to secure a part. Damage is at 8th thread and the first two threads pass thru the hole. Plus, it's a shoulder screw and you have the spring. Not a lot of torque or sheering forces in play here.
However, as the die cuts those rounded threads, material is removed, so the resulting thread pitch will be less and may cause the screw to seem to wobble in the hole.
might be something to try while you are waiting for the replacement to arrive in your mailbox. you do need to chase the threads in the elbow so that the replacement screw fastens cleanly.
when the stock components are assembled with a new donut gasket (Felpro 60755), only the starting thread plus one thread on the shoulder screw emerge from the threaded hole on the elbow.
In pic 3, the boogered-up screw threads on left got rounded over from the remains of the the 8th thread left behind upon removal and/or deformed the rest of the threads upon removal. Threads on the right screw are pointed and have the correct pitch.
If you don't run a tap to chase the threads in the elbow, the replacement shoulder screw will get rounded threads as well.
You may be able to run a die over those damaged threads to correct the rounding over and cut a new 8th thread albeit that 8th thread won't be complete. Only need 4 threads to secure a part. Damage is at 8th thread and the first two threads pass thru the hole. Plus, it's a shoulder screw and you have the spring. Not a lot of torque or sheering forces in play here.
However, as the die cuts those rounded threads, material is removed, so the resulting thread pitch will be less and may cause the screw to seem to wobble in the hole.
might be something to try while you are waiting for the replacement to arrive in your mailbox. you do need to chase the threads in the elbow so that the replacement screw fastens cleanly.
Instead of using a tap or die and removing metal it's possible to knock them back pretty close to right.
On the bolts, run a 10mm nut over the threads (don't bottom it out), grab a hammer and knock it squarly in one direction, then knock the bolt to load it the other direction. On the female threads, same thing, run a bolt in there and knock it back and forth. Keep in mind, cast iron can be brittle, don't wallop it with a sledge and crack the ear off.
Sounds barbaric but it can actually be a fix. I used to do it all the time when frat boys couldn't pay me to change spark plugs on their streetbikes and buy beer at the same time.
Bad part is was a LOT more expensive to pay me to remove the head and thread a plug in from the bottom and fix the first two threads back where they belong. (plugs are 10mm on bikes and waaaaay down in a hole. It's not hard to cross thread such small threads when space is tight)
On the bolts, run a 10mm nut over the threads (don't bottom it out), grab a hammer and knock it squarly in one direction, then knock the bolt to load it the other direction. On the female threads, same thing, run a bolt in there and knock it back and forth. Keep in mind, cast iron can be brittle, don't wallop it with a sledge and crack the ear off.
Sounds barbaric but it can actually be a fix. I used to do it all the time when frat boys couldn't pay me to change spark plugs on their streetbikes and buy beer at the same time.
Bad part is was a LOT more expensive to pay me to remove the head and thread a plug in from the bottom and fix the first two threads back where they belong. (plugs are 10mm on bikes and waaaaay down in a hole. It's not hard to cross thread such small threads when space is tight)
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