Translator + installed and extender chip but have settings questions

[Bob Avellar]

Part # on chip is BSC57B1F. This is for 36 lb bluetops. Anyway, I installed the T+ and chip today but did not have time to hook up the timing wires and did not have my laptop with directscan to monitor anything or program some of the chip functions. I have a 3" MAF from an Olds Alero that I got from a boneyard. This was one of the possible MAFS to use that I got from a list of MAFS (I think I got it from Bob Baily's website which I no longer can find). My switch settings are: ON,ON,OFF,OFF. And the dial settings are 3,0,0,0. I found the instructions to be a little confusing so I am not sure if these are correct for my car. It's an 86 GN and I am using an extender chip (Not extreme since I am using 36 lb/hr injectors). After the car was totally warmed up it seemed to idle fairly well but not as stable as my Thrasher chip, It smelled richer to me than the Thrasher with open loop idle. While it was warming up the exhaust seemed to pop quite a bit at both steady rpms and also if I goosed the gas. This was all done with the car in park. Hard to drive around since all the body panels aren' t on yet. I guess my questions are: Do I have the right settings for my car? If I find that the car still idles too rich after looking at Dscan where should I adjust things? Should I just reprogram the chip or should I maybe adjust the MAF base in the box? It actually seemed to run OK on MAF base setting 2 which is a 3.5 MAF (mine is 3"). As you make adjustments to the MAF base setting going from setting 5 down towards setting 0-is the fuel being leaned out each step or what? Also in the instructions the MAF base chart lists settings like 5% rich,10rich, 15% rich up to 25% rich at step 5. Does that mean that we richen the fuel up by those percentages over the whole fuel curve? I guess I am wondering if I may end up with a 3 1/2" setting using only a 3" MAF and if that would be normal or acceptable? Sorry for all the questions but I am obviously a bit confused. as to the best wat to set this up. Now just to throw in a glitch, I may have an injector bleeding down because the car has been somewhat hard to start recently and my FP doesn't hold as long as it used to. When it starts it seems to skip on one cylinder until it clears out after 10 seconds or so and it smells rich during this time. Anyway to tell wether it is leakink at the injector or at the pump? Pretty sure its an injector and I may attempt to run it on a can of injector cleaner soon. Once it clears up it seemed fine.

 

[Bob Avellar]

Anyone?

 

[TurboDave]

It's going to be difficult to get a good feel for where the BLMs should settle in normally since you cant really take it out for some drive around time. You really need some type of scan tool hooked up to tell you what your idle blm's are looking like for each setting.

AND, if you make a change to the MAF BASE setting, you really need to reset the ECM power so it has to re-learn.
Instead of going down in BASE settings, try the two additional 3" settings above 3. Settings 4 and 5 are to "richen" and "lean" base settings for the 3" maf, in that order I "think". I would try those before I would try the 3.5" settings.

You did start with the right settings though.

 

[Bob Avellar]

When I changed the MAF base settings I just shut the ign. off but did not reset the computer. I thought that the translator automatically looks at the base setting at start up. The changes did make a difference so I think that worked. Of course it would have to relearn the blms.Settings 3,4,5 are all enrichment (compared to what though?) 3 is 15%, 4 is 20% , 5 is 25%. Is popping in the exhaust usually from a lean condition? Seemed to pop alot at the higher settings. I will put Dscan on it later today and see what happens. I may be able to drive around the school property a little. Hope I have enough gas still in the tank.

 

[Bob Avellar]

Finished hoking up the timing wires and I did get Dscan on it today but only sitttng in the garage-no driving. Seemed OK but still smells alittle rich but no black smoke. I did have a code 44 or 45 for rich exhaust but I think that may have been ther from yesterday when I had it running on the wrong switch positions and it was reallly rich. Didn't even get a chance to clear the code to see if it was gone cause my buddy helped me charge the AC system. I needed the AC request signal to work in order to finish some other programming of the extender chip. We charged the system but then I had a blown fuse, bad AC cutout relay (or wiring to it) missing blower motor ground cinnection, the heater control door is binding from a wire chase just above the door so that makes the electronic climate control start to blink, and some other stuff to confusing to even mention. Fix one thing and screw up something else! I still think I'm gaining on it though. Full restoration, new body, wiring, etc. was big job but I'm getting closer. Just have to kill a few more gremlins (so I'll be ready for the next onslaught ).
Oh, only thing I saw that might not be right was the idle grams/sec. They were only about 3 I think. Thought they should be 5 or 6? Don't know if that will be acceptable? Is 3 OK??????

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by Bob Avellar
Finished hoking up the timing wires and I did get Dscan on it today but only sitttng in the garage-no driving. Seemed OK but still smells alittle rich but no black smoke. I did have a code 44 or 45 for rich exhaust but I think that may have been ther from yesterday when I had it running on the wrong switch positions and it was reallly rich. Didn't even get a chance to clear the code to see if it was gone cause my buddy helped me charge the AC system. I needed the AC request signal to work in order to finish some other programming of the extender chip. We charged the system but then I had a blown fuse, bad AC cutout relay (or wiring to it) missing blower motor ground cinnection, the heater control door is binding from a wire chase just above the door so that makes the electronic climate control start to blink, and some other stuff to confusing to even mention. Fix one thing and screw up something else! I still think I'm gaining on it though. Full restoration, new body, wiring, etc. was big job but I'm getting closer. Just have to kill a few more gremlins (so I'll be ready for the next onslaught ).
Oh, only thing I saw that might not be right was the idle grams/sec. They were only about 3 I think. Thought they should be 5 or 6? Don't know if that will be acceptable? Is 3 OK??????

Yes, 3 is good. Remember, you're using an extender chip. The MAF readings you see on the scan tool will now be half what's actually flowing into the engine.