AXIS TRANSLATOR/TUNER

[TIMINATOR]

I have a 3.5" plastic MAF and an AXIS tuner/translator, with the proper programmable "chip," my question; is the programmed and "learned" memory permanent until rewritten, or will it need to relearn if the computer power is interrupted?
It has run perfectly when hot and "learned." Once in a while, then upon restart it runs like crap until the engine is at operating temp. Keep in mind, l live in Phoenix,AZ. and it's been over 105-110 outside, and 90 in my shop.
I have disconnected the battery due to doing some welding on the car, but I am wondering if it's that or there is an issue with "cold" start (if 110 degrees is "cold"...).
I couldn't find any info either way in my instructions,(version 1.0).
It has transition issues (lean popping) on free Rev, unless it's done slowly, especially when "cold."
Ideas, experiences, answers?
Thanks!
TIMINATOR

 

[mblum]

To my knowledge the only way to change fuel and timing offsets are done by the dials in the Translator when running the axis controller with a matching chip. These settings are not lost if the battery power is disconnected. Most of the areas in the base map of the tune, other than WOT fuel enrichment, still allow BLM learning, so if your chip is spot on and all BLMs hang around 128 then there should be very little difference noticed if battery power is lost. These "learned" BLMs will be lost when battery power is lost and should only take alittle driving to relearn.

This has been my experience so far, maybe others can confirm.

 

[TIMINATOR]

BLM is 126, chip was ordered for this combo, but it's just a crap shoot from start up to start up to know what it's going to do when restarting it. I've done wiggle tests, continuity tests and have replaced every sensor when I redid the engine, and haven't driven it yet since I don't trust it.
I have checked and verified everything by wideband and scanmaster, one in the car, and one underhood so I can watch everything, and they both agree too. Wideband is new and temporarily underhood, so I can watch as I adjust the Axis. I have recleaned all the grounds, and have run individual temporary jumper grounds back to the battery.
I'm running out of ideas, as all parameters are within recommended limits, so I'll just keep plugging at it.
TIMINATOR

 

[mblum]

Are all 16 BLM cells at 126 when viewing them in Powerlogger or just the idle cell?

If they are all close to 128 then the ECU isn't having to do much compensation.

When I disconnect my battery all 16 BLM cells default back to 128 until they relearn and usually end up between 126 and 132 once learning is done. But once learned they are not lost from shutting the car off and re-starting.

 

[XracerX]

I just installed the Axis interface V1.1 with an Axis chip and an LS1 3.5" Maf last week. So far so good. I figured if I'm gonna buy a translator, I mine as well get the Axis and Axis chip for $80 more than a regular translator alone, and see what it can do, and not have to worry about loosing programming if I cut power to the ECM.

How did you end up making out with it TIMinator? Did you find the culprit?

 

[dynoman]

I have a 3.5" plastic MAF and an AXIS tuner/translator, with the proper programmable "chip," my question; is the programmed and "learned" memory permanent until rewritten, or will it need to relearn if the computer power is interrupted?
It has run perfectly when hot and "learned." Once in a while, then upon restart it runs like crap until the engine is at operating temp. Keep in mind, l live in Phoenix,AZ. and it's been over 105-110 outside, and 90 in my shop.
I have disconnected the battery due to doing some welding on the car, but I am wondering if it's that or there is an issue with "cold" start (if 110 degrees is "cold"...).
I couldn't find any info either way in my instructions,(version 1.0).
It has transition issues (lean popping) on free Rev, unless it's done slowly, especially when "cold."
Ideas, experiences, answers?
Thanks!
TIMINATOR

Give Greg a call , he loves his Axis and knows it very well .

 

[TIMINATOR]

Called Greg, sent him info,he hasn't come up with anything yet.
It's absolutely lean anywhere off idle, and changing the adjustments hasn't hardly helped at all. Dip switches are set for the MAF as per version instructions 1.0. Tried a few #s richer on the base and LO, it's better but nowhere near correct.
Disconnected every vacuum line and capped one at a time with no change.
Tightening all manifold, plenum, and T body bolts while running. No change.
Spraying brake cleaner at: manifold to head, plenum, t body while running.
No change.
Spray into just uncapped vacuum line, idle speeds up.
Ran with the 5.7 chip and these 60# injectors before, all perfect.
60# injectors, 5.7 chip, Axis box and chip, 3.5"plastic MAF, all new from Eric.
Tried 5.7 chip and Axis box as a Translator only (its sold for that) with the new 3.5" MAF first, it ran and RPM'd lean.
Figured that the chip and dials would cure the lean condition, it didn't.
Checked all Axis adaptor plugs and wiring, wiggle pull/push test, tap on and wiggle MAF while running, no change.
Been gone for two days, just got back, gonna try any new ideas tomorrow.
Eric called before I left, asked for #s, and I sent them to him, forwarded shop fone to cell, and had no calls about this deal.
Am I the only guy with this issue?
TIMINATOR

 

[TurboWh1]

I'm about to try this set up on my car. Had it laying around for a few years. My stock MAF is cutting out under WOT track conditions so wanted to see if I can get this Axis going. Just bought a new 3.5 LS1 MAF from Eric as well. I had a 4" pipe with a carriage type MAF and could not get it to work right on my car. It was super rich at idle. Thinking it was probably the sensor. More to come.... Hopefully you get yours figured out this weekend!!

 

[TexasT]

Have you tried a different maf or two? They seem to be plentiful when I go to the wrecking yard. I also pick up sensors and such(map and iat and the like). I try to make em give me a price for the lot. Like $50 for a couple mafs and some sensors. If they ask what they came from I never know, just some cars out on the lot. Always have cash for this type trans action.

 

[TIMINATOR]

I bought new matching parts from the same source to minimize problems.
It may be time for a different strategy.
I'm taking the weekend off to drop my stress level, and read what ideas ya'all have. Then back at it Monday.
TIMINATOR

 

[TexasT]

I feel ya but even new stuff has probs sometimes ime
always good to take a break and get a fresh look when you have simmered down.

 

[XracerX]

I bought new matching parts from the same source to minimize problems.
It may be time for a different strategy.
I'm taking the weekend off to drop my stress level, and read what ideas ya'all have. Then back at it Monday.
TIMINATOR

Curious what your combo is, and what you have the switches set to on the Axis. Also fuel pressure setting vac off.

 

[TIMINATOR]

Warm street car.
+.020, comp custom hyd.rlr. 213/216 .582/.590. 8.7 comp, ported irons, unshrouded valves, polished chambers, ported intake,3" D.P, T/A race headers, Precision slic, dual 3" ex, 70mm T body, 62/62 bilet, Wiseco, ferrea, 60 lb injectors, 255 lp, hotwired, 7 qt. Pan, BHJ, line hone, Scat 4340 stock stroke, billet caps, ARP everything, .024 Cometics, 3.5" plastic MAF, cold air, all pumps alt, etc,
are new. 3 row alum radiator, dual fans.
Usually runs fine over 170 degrees, below that pops and leans out. Done wiggle, pull, poke, prod, test, all grounds are clean.
Idles fine, IAC at 10, idle speed 850, 13.4 idle. All dials and dips on Axis set for MAF, as per ver. 1.0 instructions.
New fuel filter, 43 lbs w/vac off, 38 w/vac on. Never changes with winging or running RPMs up.
I have run the base and LO richer with little change. It leans out as the RPM rise, and then pops lean at 3000/3500.
I have a scanmaster and wideband in the car, and a temporary pair underhood to watch as I'm tuning. And pulling my hair out.
Sometimes it will run OK after shutoff, other times it seems as if it has to relearn everything.
I am afraid to try to drive it until I know what's happening. I am not happy with running or winging it (when it actually "takes the throttle" without popping/ leaning out on the wideband.)
????????????
TIMINATOR

 

[XracerX]

Try bumping up the fuel pressure to 46-47 but put MAF lo/high back to "0". I don't have what you have and I have mine set to 47psi vac off.

 

[hensleyt]

IAC @ 10 is in the ballpark. My car likes 25 @ .46 TPS water temp above 160
I have a spear 3 in MAS if you want to give it a try

 

[TIMINATOR]

I've had my iac from 78 as installed new, to 10 now, it seems to like lower better. Tps voltage at .45 now and 4.68 open too.
I'll try higher pressure after more checking if I don't find anything.
XRACERX, what size injectors do you have? Tim, same question.
THANKS GUYS!

 

[hensleyt]

60's in my car. Yes you are correct each car is different and if you have gone that big of a swing you have exhausted ever posable IAC setting

 

[XracerX]

Seimans 60's. Everything else I have is in my signature. My TPS is at .47/4.6wot and my IAC's are 23 at idle. Idle BLM's 127 and other sections around 126-128. MAF lo/hi on "0"

 

[XracerX]

60's in my car. Yes you are correct each car is different and if you have gone that big of a swing you have exhausted ever posable IAC setting

where do you have your MAF hi/low set to? And do you have your Spark high at 3?

 

[TIMINATOR]

I will check Monday.
No spark adjustment.
I thought I would get it running without that till I got a handle on it. Bad idea?
TIMINATOR