Timing Chain Recommendations

my1stgn

Active Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2005
I know this has been beat to death, but with time comes changes. I know Rollmaster was the one to get but recently I heard their "new" (ever since they got bought out) timing chains are under par and had some failures. Dont know it this is on all Turbo Buick engines or just stage II engines, but either way I would like some info. What timing chains are highly recommended and durable? I have a stock 109 block and looking to upgrade timing chain. Also what else besides the gasket is needed (ie cam buttonm etc)? Im pretty sure I do not need a tensioner right? Thanks guys!
 
Comp 3129 here no problems. Correct no tensioner. Roller cam button also ( cloyes 9-5189) I think is the number.
 
Comp 3129 here no problems. Correct no tensioner. Roller cam button also ( cloyes 9-5189) I think is the number.

How many miles/time you got on the timing chain and what times have you ran with this? So all you did was the chain and cam button? Thanks
 
I know this has been beat to death, but with time comes changes. I know Rollmaster was the one to get but recently I heard their "new" (ever since they got bought out) timing chains are under par and had some failures. Dont know it this is on all Turbo Buick engines or just stage II engines, but either way I would like some info. What timing chains are highly recommended and durable? I have a stock 109 block and looking to upgrade timing chain. Also what else besides the gasket is needed (ie cam buttonm etc)? Im pretty sure I do not need a tensioner right? Thanks guys!

I dont know anyone who has had a rollmaster failure on a stock style build that never went over 6500 rpm. Ive heard of failures but they were not because of the chain being sub par. I actully know of one that did not fail and the main thrust was about 1/8 inch:eek: from a converter pressure problem. That particular TSM engine made 3 or 4 passes shifting at 6400 with that much :eek:end play and the chain did not fail. It was a rollmaster. Imagine the crank gear being .125inch forward of the cam gear. Not a good thing for the chain. For your engine any of the available will work. The stock one has proven to be very durable but the cam gear was not. A stock replacement set with a steel gear is a great option for you. Cheap and they last. Get a roller cam thrust for a FWD. Its a direct replacement. You dont use the tensioner on a roller. Use it if your using a stock type chain though.
 
How many miles/time you got on the timing chain and what times have you ran with this? So all you did was the chain and cam button? Thanks

Have about 5k miles on it. Did water pump and front cover seal at same time.
 
Stock unopened block, single row steel gears with new tensioner. :smile:

Roller cam button and water pump too.
 
Used Edelbrock from Napa on dads engine, used Comp Cams from cam kit I bought for the GN. Both double roller, got rid of the tensioner, and roller cam buttons of course.
 
I just got a Cloyes double roller timing chain:

CLOYES Street TRUE ROLLER TIMING CHAIN-GEAR SET #7194 - 1 $99.95
 
did you also get thefront cam thrust bearing that will go into the nose of the cam and then be installed and butt up to the timing cover housing, you will be using the button, correct, thanks.

Ron
 
So if I go with a double roller from anyone (most likely Rollmaster I guess) I need the following:

1. New Camshaft bolt (Im guessing these are trq-2-yield bolts?)
2. New Crankshaft bolt (Maybe I dunno)
3. Cam Roller Button (What is this and what does it do?)
4. No tensioner
5. Front cover gasket

Anything else?
 
yes on the 2 cam bolts, ARP or GM
re-use crankshaft bolt
new rollerized cam button, keeps cam from walking forward, put spring end into the cam and it will stay when you put the cover back on
on a dbl. roller I do not believe you use the tensioner, some else needs to chime in here!!!
and gasket-gaskets
and new crankshaft seal, and may as well do oil mods to the front cover via
Earl Brown, if oil press. was good before doing this you might be good to go.
again some one else might want to chime in here regarding this one.

Ron
 
Cool, thanks for the reply. Now, if you NEED this stuff (like the gasket, cam button, bolt, etc) why doesnt someone make like a "kit" that has everything you need. I mean its like when you get a transmission oil filter they usually give you a gasket cause you are gonna need to replace the old one right? Anyone know if they have a "timing chain kit" that would include everything I need?
 
Cool, thanks for the reply. Now, if you NEED this stuff (like the gasket, cam button, bolt, etc) why doesnt someone make like a "kit" that has everything you need. I mean its like when you get a transmission oil filter they usually give you a gasket cause you are gonna need to replace the old one right? Anyone know if they have a "timing chain kit" that would include everything I need?

haven't seen one yet. I had to purchase my cam bolts, timing chain, front timing cover gasket, and cam button all seperatly.
 
timing chain

I've recently asked this question, and was told that the stock chain with tensioner is ultimately quieter then double roller, because as the chain stretches out as all will do the tensioner does what it's supposed to and keeps the noise down. If noise cancellation is an issue there is something to think about.
 
new rollerized cam button, keeps cam from walking forward, put spring end into the cam and it will stay when you put the cover back on

You should run a rigid cam thrust setup for a roller cam. No springs. Full throttle lists them on their site as roller cam button for hyd roller cams. About $50. It requires shimming to control endplay. No tensioner on any roller style chain
 
You should run a rigid cam thrust setup for a roller cam. No springs. Full throttle lists them on their site as roller cam button for hyd roller cams. About $50. It requires shimming to control endplay. No tensioner on any roller style chain

I dont have a roller cam, just the stock one. Do I still need the cam button and which one?
 
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