The official tips you've learned from experience thread.

Opinions are like a$$holes, everyone has one!..So don't be offended when somebody farts!..:D

GC
 
Use studs to attach T&D rocker shaft stands to 14 boly GN1 heads, drop kick that stupid little tool they supply with the kit and do it right. If you are not checking the geomety accross the valve once you believe you have the right shaft stand hieght and push rod length, you are guessing.
Don't plan on installing the T&D rocker system on GN1 heads without removing them, the push rod holes must be enlarged as all the pushrods hit the head.
Just because you built 5 or 6 NA engines does not mean your turbo Buick engine rebuild is going to work. A wise man calls one of the few quality turbo Buick engine builders and buys one ready to go (DLS, RPE, Weber, TA).
If your GN1 heads are leaking oil its coming from the headgasket surface where the oil drainback holes are located (dab of RTV in this area before heads are installed will fix) or you will drive yourself mad replacing intake/rear seal/oil pan and valvecover gaskets trying to fix.
Mike
 
-If you have a stock balancer, take the bolt out, red loctite it in, and Tq to 250ftlbs, then check every oil change!
-If you are putting poly axle housing bushings in get a tool and dont do it when your sick!
-Turbo Buicks always squeek on rough roads.
-timing seems to make more power than boost
-Get a W/B o2, EGT and Data logger tool!
 
WD40 is the bomb when removing tire rubber from the 1/4 panels. Pep boys sells it by the gallon. Spray it on wait 10 minutes and the rubber wipes right off. Still a VERY messy job, I usually do it out in the street. I use prep sol or PPG wax & grease remover to take WD40 off after cleaning. 1 hour job now takes 15 minutes.
 
True. It's also good for removing hard undercoating even on really old stuff. Another tip is using Pam to keep the rubber from sticking, but clean it off when you get BMW or it gets real gooey. Even better, just mask your quarters with blue tape.
 
My tip for removing burnout boogers is Meguiars Body Solvent. Spray it on the quarters before you start your wash. When you work your way back to the quarters they'll be soft and easy to remove.
 
If your car backfires, stop and make sure it didnt backfire through the intake causing the MAF screen and clip to blow into your air filter. Because the next time you go into boost you will be buying a new turbo
 
Only two of the bolts holding the horn button in are real bolts.

A TV cable that's too tight can keep the throttle from going true WOT and therefore keep the TPS from reading enough WOT voltage.

The drivers floor mat can do the same thing.

If you need to start a bolt that you can't reach with your fingers, cover the socket with a piece of notebook paper and push the bolt through it. the notebook paper will hold it tight allowing you to hold it at any angle without it falling out.

a self drilling screw or epoxy can save your loose GN center cap.

Every engine is different, but on my car I can turn the motor over by hand using the IC fan IF I have someone else keep tension on the alternator bolt with a ratchet. It gives just enough assistance to do it without damaging the fan. You can also see if it is on compression stroke by watching the #1 valvetrain through the oil filler hole.

Threadserts installed in the doors with real bolts can keep your door pull straps tight.

A big old blanket tucked in your drivers inner quarter panel can save you lots of headaches with outward dents, and can come in handy in an emergency situation.
 
Not everything you hear on tb.com is true. It took me awhile to figure this out a few years ago. There is some very good advice here as well very bad advise. Trick is to sort through it:)

Amen. Same as any internet source.
 
IN-CAR OIL PAN GASKET REPLACEMENT, Extra string hanging down is important!

I use white sewing thread (easier to see) and tie a knot with extra string hanging down in most of the oil pan holes, than snip the string and pull out after the bolt is in a few threads.
 
kirban 2 cents worth

I wrote two books covering tips I have learned along the way of buying 300 plus of these cars....all the above info is great including the one about oil leaks....how true....

Now that I have bought over a dozen dead ones.....I am amazed at the ones I bought that owners too apart to restore in a unheated hardly lit, single bay garage thinking they had enough time and room to reassemble the car in a reasonable amount of time.

In other words....if you buy someones unfinished project....chances are quite good you will never get all the original parts with the car.

Dead cars are seldom a disappointment.....as long as you view them to dismantle for parts.

kirbanperformance.com

denniskirban@yahoo.com

Heres a tip....if you are looking at buying a T-Top car check the floors for dampness and rust.
 
WD40 is the bomb when removing tire rubber from the 1/4 panels. Pep boys sells it by the gallon. Spray it on wait 10 minutes and the rubber wipes right off. Still a VERY messy job, I usually do it out in the street. I use prep sol or PPG wax & grease remover to take WD40 off after cleaning. 1 hour job now takes 15 minutes.

It's also great to spray on your opponent's tires at the strip. I sneak out of my my GN when the other car just pre-stages, and spray big globs of WD-30 on his rear tires....for some reason, he always goes up in smoke.:rolleyes: Of course, I'm not allowed back at that particular track anymore. Guess they don't like WD-40.:redface: But that one race was nice to win.:cool:


Bruce '87 Grand National
 
2 Primary Black Holes

There are 2 primary black holes in the TB engine compartment.


One is down the drivers side frame rail. A socket dropped will often roll down the frame rail and wedge itself between it and the body. The only way out is with is back the way it came.

The other is the cross member under the oil pan. Stuff dropped with make it's way in there with alarming regularity. Retreive it through the hole in the center.
 
What?

-If you have a stock balancer, take the bolt out, red loctite it in, and Tq to 250ftlbs, then check every oil change!
QUOTE]

I have never done this and don't know anyone who has. My car has over 100,000 mi on it. Never had an issue with the balancer. :confused:
 
-If you have a stock balancer, take the bolt out, red loctite it in, and Tq to 250ftlbs, then check every oil change!
-If you are putting poly axle housing bushings in get a tool and dont do it when your sick!
-Turbo Buicks always squeek on rough roads.
-timing seems to make more power than boost
-Get a W/B o2, EGT and Data logger tool!
Eliminate one of the biggest squeaks and keep some grease on that little round bumper under the hood at the center near the windshield. That loud squeak you hear on cold mornings is not a loose dash or windshield!
 
Put Vaseline on your quarter panels before going to the track. Rubber wipes right off.

Mike B.
 
Go to one of those dollar stores and buy the cheap lemon (DO NOT USE ORANGE OIL) furniture spray wax.

It has UV protectant in it and you can spray it on anything. It does not change the appearence of the interior vinyl. It is a great quick wax on a car and lasts for a month in a pinch on the exterior if you leave a vehicle outside. Fast and easy way to protect your car from the sun. My silver 90 Lincoln Town car with 180K miles still looks like new in and out with the original paint here in Florida. I only seriously wax it once a year and use the quick spray monthly (takes 3-4 minutes to dust the car with it). It never dries and leaves white residue in the trim or screws with your windshield wipers in the rain.

DO NOT THINK YOU NEED TO SPRAY IT ON HEAVY, YOU WILL BE WIPING OFF THE EXCESS FOR TWO DAYS!



When it comes to electronics, paint/body or mechanical work always buy the best you can afford. It is cheaper in the long run.

Mikey
 
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