Street stall ?? How much stall are you driving around with??

[robzombie]

up to what horsepower level can it handle everything you throw at it??

I don't know the answer to that I haven't put my car on a dyno, but with my combo I'm making a educated guess that I'm in the low to mid 500 hp territory.

I know that a LU isn't going to take repeated track abuse if running the LU and if that's what you do with your car the NLU is for people that spend more time at the track than on the street.

 

[trailinjake]

1) TCI 3000 stall

2) No not yet, I will be at the track in a couple of weeks after I get the tune where I want it.

3) refer to #2

4) No comparison, off the shelf doesn't hold a candle to something made for your combination.

This is just a BS nonsense post! This guys looking for real world answers, so he can choose a converter that works... not what you were told your converter will do.
I hope your converter performs exactly how you were sold, but coming on here questioning what veterans have proven is just crap.

 

[robzombie]

This is just a BS nonsense post! This guys looking for real world answers, so he can choose a converter that works... not what you were told your converter will do.
I hope your converter performs exactly how you were sold, but coming on here questioning what veterans have proven is just crap.

You're entitled to your opinion, and I'm not doubting the experts.

PTC converters are good converters and I'm not arguing that.

You can't call my post BS as you have no clue what I have for a converter and no information to back that up.

Just because I don't have what is proven on this board doesn't mean that PTC converters are the only company out there that can build a converter for our cars.

I'm sorry I'm not a sheep and follow the flock all the time. There are times that you have no other choice but to follow, like when it's Parts specific.

I would buy parts from people like Bob Bailey, Eric, G body and others like them not only because they are vendors, and not because they are the only game in town but are the best you can get in the products they sell.

I'm all for real world answers and I'm a NO BS kinda person so ease off the attitude and think before you attack.

How the hell do you think the veterans came up with all the answers anyways, you think they never tried something different and just stayed pat with what they thought was the cats ass ten years ago??

No they tried different things and went outside the box and also embraced new technology when it presented itself.

You spouting off like you have is just crap, next time keep it real or keep it shut.

 

[bison]

I don't agree with that as I have just purchased a BLU with carbon clutches and billet lockup mechanism and all the other trinkets that also come inside a PTC that will handle everything that you can throw at it even at the track.

My converter is speced out to 3,200 /0 lbs. and 5000 true stall with less than 5% slip in NLU. I had it built to my cars combination.

The reason I went this way is any NL will build heat in street driving especially at part throttle low load conditions.

So it has a custom stator? I've yet to see a lockup stall to anywhere near 3000@0 and flash to 5000 and couple to within 5% in anything. Please post logs of the engine vs driveshaft speed. Your comment about part throttle street driving doesn't apply to all lockup or non lock converters. It could go either way since the converter isn't usually locked below 45mph. Whatever one slips less at light load will usually heat the trans less. You may be surprised that the high $ non lock will probably slip less than the lockup under those driving conditions. Also the high $ non lockup is very adjustable with the stator and pump combos and can be built to run from just above stock to into the 7's (in the quarter) in the full weight car. Yes the same basic design except for the stator is used in them.

 

[trailinjake]

You're entitled to your opinion, and I'm not doubting the experts.

PTC converters are good converters and I'm not arguing that.

You can't call my post BS as you have no clue what I have for a converter and no information to back that up.

Just because I don't have what is proven on this board doesn't mean that PTC converters are the only company out there that can build a converter for our cars.

I'm sorry I'm not a sheep and follow the flock all the time. There are times that you have no other choice but to follow, like when it's Parts specific.

I would buy parts from people like Bob Bailey, Eric, G body and others like them not only because they are vendors, and not because they are the only game in town but are the best you can get in the products they sell.

I'm all for real world answers and I'm a NO BS kinda person so ease off the attitude and think before you attack.

How the hell do you think the veterans came up with all the answers anyways, you think they never tried something different and just stayed pat with what they thought was the cats ass ten years ago??

No they tried different things and went outside the box and also embraced new technology when it presented itself.

You spouting off like you have is just crap, next time keep it real or keep it shut.

My point is that your already stated that your converter will handle "any HP" slip less than 5% and couple in every and any situation. That's BS unless you have proof to back it up. I'm by no means saying PTC is the best converter out, but I can say that there is REAL PROOF to back up what has been said with its performance.
If you came into this conversation with your opinion and facts to back it up...I'm sure people would listen.
And I am keeping it real... That's my reason for wasting my time writing this post!

 

[robzombie]

Really , please show me where I stated and I quoted ;

My point is that your already stated that your converter will handle "any HP" slip less than 5% and couple in every and any situation

You can kiss my converter. Go start your poop with someone else.

 

[trailinjake]

I don't agree with that as I have just purchased a BLU with carbon clutches and billet lockup mechanism and all the other trinkets that also come inside a PTC that will handle everything that you can throw at it even at the track.

My converter is speced out to 3,200 /0 lbs. and 5000 true stall with less than 5% slip in NLU. I had it built to my cars combination.

It's not recommended to use the LU at the track even though it has the carbon clutches in it and can handle high tens and low elevens using the LU without a problem.

So for people like me that actually drive 100 miles a day or take long trips this is the closet you can get to having your cake and eat it to.









Here you go Tough guy!

 

[bison]

No more bickering here or it's closed. Post the numbers. Nothing else matters.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

The 9.5 LU can couple at 5% if the rpm and the hp are in the right ranges for the spec'd stall speed. The issue is the Buick motors rarely run in that range unless the boost is turned down.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

my current stall

 

[we4Mateo]

I've ridden around my area in cars with PTC NLs and they are great at cruise...as long as you don't get into a hill! It won't be argued that the more hp you make, the better a NL is at the track, but for a true STREET car, a LU TC gets valuable gas mileage and nicer hill climbing manners as long as the turbo is still small enough to spool in the low 2k to 3k rpm range. I give up ET at the strip by running my VIG, but it cruises up and down the hills on the way home perfectly. I'll go to a PTC NL when I stop driving so much on the street, but all aspects of driving and car use need to be considered before making these decisions.

I agree the TC should be chosen first based on use and goals, then a turbo that will work with the TC, then a motor that can handle all the mass flow the turbo can take when maxxed out. Good combo every time.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

After hanging out with a much more knowledgeable Buick guy most of today and talking to my Trans/Engine builder a few days ago. I will step up to a larger turbo and KEEP this torque converter.
as far as buying a torque converter for the other car i will wait till after the new turbo is in and see for my self on how it works, Then move onto a converter selection.
BTW today I drove the car 45 miles one way and 45 miles back home, next week i am going to Kirbans, i can't imagine driving that much or long with out a LU.
That said
I am going to ask one of the local guys to take me for a ride in their NL car.

So whats the next size UP turbo to go low 11s high tens. (just make believe i have a NL) lets get past this hurdle.

 

[Mr.Spool]

p-ptrim or 65 turbine,your pick on compressor 62,63,64 billet,66,67 cast, as all have been high 10's and low 11's before.doesn't need to be bb but if your worried about the converter go bb.if you stay with the p-trim or 65, you can also dial in the ex housing size for the combo ex:tnetics or garrett.63,garrett.82,tnetics.82,pte.63 and finally tnetics.85..if your car were mine I would run the 60 you have as hard as it can go if you want low 11's,you might be surprised.must also make the car run well(tune) then add the good stuff like plenty of boost.

 

[Mr.Spool]

ive driven a ptc 9.5 nl 3200 for 4 hrs straight with no problems at all,no high heat no super high rpms going up a hill.the converter will behave based on your combo,its all in the way you setup your car.the ptc only raised 50 rpm on cruise compared to a top notch lu that I used to run.just some food for thought guys.

 

[Grumpy]

I've ridden around my area in cars with PTC NLs and they are great at cruise...as long as you don't get into a hill! It won't be argued that the more hp you make, the better a NL is at the track, but for a true STREET car, a LU TC gets valuable gas mileage and nicer hill climbing manners as long as the turbo is still small enough to spool in the low 2k to 3k rpm range. I give up ET at the strip by running my VIG, but it cruises up and down the hills on the way home perfectly. I'll go to a PTC NL when I stop driving so much on the street, but all aspects of driving and car use need to be considered before making these decisions.

I agree the TC should be chosen first based on use and goals, then a turbo that will work with the TC, then a motor that can handle all the mass flow the turbo can take when maxxed out. Good combo every time.

X2 !!!! Bigger isn't always better. Up here in the north east the LU is better for a DRIVER !!! (We also have a non LU PTC we used for a while but missed the LU sooooo ) I know I know I have also beat to death this topic Melissa's GN with well over 20k on her LU converter that we LOCK up at the track 9.9 @ 138 .. Mazda also has one.. Times coming soon AGAIN have a LOT of 9 sec cars up here with Vig's.. They all lock em up so never mind a LU will blow up as soon as ya lock it at the track.

 

[Grumpy]

ive driven a ptc 9.5 nl 3200 for 4 hrs straight with no problems at all,no high heat no super high rpms going up a hill.

I had a converter like that in my Buick/Wagon.. Sorry cruising @ 3200 just isn't for me. Drove mine for a day. Then parked it till I got a new restalled stock D5.. I know I know they suck to

 

[trailinjake]

I guess it's all preference. I drive my car alot here in NY that have hills and windy roads. I don't have any complaints so far. Trans temp is good etc. I guess it depends on the car also.

 

[Mr.Spool]

grumpy that was just the stall rating not what I cruised at,i know I just wasn't clear enough

 

[usetaboost]

I got a 3200 ptc 10" lu. at 24psi I get about a 3-400rpm drop. seems to have a lot of slip around town though. The ptc 9.5 nlu will be on my list of considerations once I get a trans built. Cruising around town at 2300 rpm sucks.