Street stall ?? How much stall are you driving around with??

DAVID , I SMOKED MY 2800-3000 LOCK UP AT JUST OVER 550 HP . HELD UP FINE FOR LESS THEN 1000 MILES . IF YOUR UPGRADING . DO IT . GO NL 3000-3200 PTC 9.5 .. AFTER THE SWITCH MY CAR WAS 2 10TH FASTER AT THE BIG END .
 
Getting a lock-up to couple well can be done as others here have mentioned. They will couple well at hp levels in the mid 11's and slower with a motor that spins over 5500 rpm. A lot of the so called 2800-3200 stalls won't stall over 2400-2500 rpm which will also keep slip low. As long as the turbo is small you can spool it with a 2400 rpm stall. In a case where someone wants to retain lock-up, the combo needs to be built around the converter rather than buying a converter for a combo. I still advise anyone wanting a 10 second car to go non lock. Slower street cars can get away with a lock-up if the turbo and rpm range match the available stalls.
 
Dave, I think I seen you said you are looking for another turbo, you want my TA66 about 1k miles on it good price?
 
qws2000 said:
Dave, I think I seen you said you are looking for another turbo, you want my TA66 about 1k miles on it good price?
Click to expand...

Not looking to buy just yet, looking to nail down a direction first. THEN

BTW I prefer the look of the TE covers
 
When using a PTC NL and cruising at 60, 65 and 70
1- What is your engine RPM?
2- What is your engine temp?
3- What is your trans temp?
4- Which trans cooler do you have?
Thanks.
 
TURBOPOWERED68 said:
When using a PTC NL and cruising at 60, 65 and 70
1- What is your engine RPM?
2- What is your engine temp?
3- What is your trans temp?
4- Which trans cooler do you have?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

1. 2400 2600 2800
2. Whatever I set the fans to come on at (175-180)
3. Below 170*
4. Derale w/ 170 tstat for automatic fan control.
 
I had one, I replaced it because i thought it was the source of the classic "blue smoke from exhaust" syndrome. Turned out to be valve seals. Go figure.
 
TURBOPOWERED68 said:
When using a PTC NL and cruising at 60, 65 and 70
1- What is your engine RPM?
2- What is your engine temp?
3- What is your trans temp?
4- Which trans cooler do you have?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
I bought my car over a year and half ago and it had a terrible combo (turbo, converter, tune). Like you, asked alot of questions and read...read...read !!! After all my homework, I now have a PTC 9.5 Non lock up and a Bison built, billet turbo. Brian is also going to be dyno tuning my car here next few weeks.
I had a Art Carr 9" NLU converter and a T-netics 66-62 JB turbo. Car was real lazy on the street
The PTC converter has a little slip around town but by no means sloppy.
It spools the turbo better than I ever hoped.
When the two couple, it pulls like a freight train.
The entire ride is just scary for the street!
If I had to do it again, I'd pick the same 2 guys and the same 2 pieces.
Both built and shipped them quick
At 70 MPH I'm at 1900 RPM in OD. 28" tall DR tire
Car and Trans run cool, but I haven't run this combo in the heat.
Hope this helps
 
The problem is the LU. There isn't a lockup out there that will work properly on both ends.They need to be locked to get efficiency out of them. That's the difference between a $550 converter and a $1000 PTC 9.5" which works throughout the quarter mile and cruises with very low slip %.
Click to expand...

I don't agree with that as I have just purchased a BLU with carbon clutches and billet lockup mechanism and all the other trinkets that also come inside a PTC that will handle everything that you can throw at it even at the track.

My converter is speced out to 3,200 /0 lbs. and 5000 true stall with less than 5% slip in NLU. I had it built to my cars combination.

The reason I went this way is any NL will build heat in street driving especially at part throttle low load conditions.

It's not recommended to use the LU at the track even though it has the carbon clutches in it and can handle high tens and low elevens using the LU without a problem.

The LU will take the abuse for awhile, just not a steady diet of drag strip runs if you're in the mid tens or lower.

So for people like me that actually drive 100 miles a day or take long trips this is the closet you can get to having your cake and eat it to.

Both types of T/C have their place, true race NLU all the way, but if you drive the street and want the mileage the LU is still the way to go, for me anyways.
 
robzombie said:
I don't agree with that as I have just purchased a BLU with carbon clutches and billet lockup mechanism and all the other trinkets that also come inside a PTC that will handle everything that you can throw at it even at the track.

My converter is speced out to 3,200 /0 lbs. and 5000 true stall with less than 5% slip in NLU. I had it built to my cars combination.
Click to expand...

up to what horsepower level can it handle everything you throw at it??
 
robzombie said:
I don't agree with that as I have just purchased a BLU with carbon clutches and billet lockup mechanism and all the other trinkets that also come inside a PTC that will handle everything that you can throw at it even at the track.

My converter is speced out to 3,200 /0 lbs. and 5000 true stall with less than 5% slip in NLU. I had it built to my cars combination.

The reason I went this way is any NL will build heat in street driving especially at part throttle low load conditions.

It's not recommended to use the LU at the track even though it has the carbon clutches in it and can handle high tens and low elevens using the LU without a problem.

The LU will take the abuse for awhile, just not a steady diet of drag strip runs if you're in the mid tens or lower.

So for people like me that actually drive 100 miles a day or take long trips this is the closet you can get to having your cake and eat it to.

Both types of T/C have their place, true race NLU all the way, but if you drive the street and want the mileage the LU is still the way to go, for me anyways.
Click to expand...

What converter did you previously have?
Have you run your car at the track to confirm your TQ slip %?
What were your 1/8 and 1/4 ET gains from your old converter?
How is the around town converter slip and turbo spool up?
 
What converter did you previously have?
Have you run your car at the track to confirm your TQ slip %?
What were your 1/8 and 1/4 ET gains from your old converter?
How is the around town converter slip and turbo spool up?
Click to expand...

1) TCI 3000 stall

2) No not yet, I will be at the track in a couple of weeks after I get the tune where I want it.

3) refer to #2

4) No comparison, off the shelf doesn't hold a candle to something made for your combination.
 
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