Starting to lose my mind with going from intermittant no-run to no start issue

N

Nascar83Fan

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Here's a link to my posts in another section that gives alot of details of what has gone on in the last week and what has been done to try to without success fix the issues. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/in...aso-area-that-can-assist.405089/#post-3325053

I have a constant 38 to 39 psi of fuel pressure at the fuel rail via the fuel pressure gauge tester i have. The fuel pressure doesnt drop any during cranking or after i stop cranking so i am good there. I'm getting fuel pump priming and have a fully charged battery. I have checked various wires and pins to see if any were loose & then checked for voltages with my volt meter, but coming up short on a solution to my problem. I replaced the crank sensor and made sure the bracket was secured tightly in place to avoid it wobbling & to avoid the sensor getting scarred by the ring.
Went from having a working ses light the day before the trouble started to it not lighting up anymore. No codes but she just cranks, checked for loose wires and cant find anything broken or loose. I've utilized various troubleshooting trees off here and 2 other turbo buick sites, read countless posts and still coming up without a solution. Checked under the cam shaft sensor cap to see if the ring was loose but the screw holding it down was tight. Can't find the link that had the pictures to test the pins that the injector harness plugs into to see if there was a problem in that part of the wiring or not. As the noid light test on the injector signal came up as no pulses, not even getting any blinking or solid test light during cranking. Really wished i was alot closer to some of the turbo buick guys out in las cruces, especially since i don't have another vehicle to go out there and try to catch one of the members that stay over there so i could nip this in the bud. Anyone have a way to reach one of the members that lives over in las cruces besides via a pm on this site, would like to try to workout a deal with one or more of them to get this car running again.
Thanks.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
No CE light means no ecm power. At the ECM plug, check A6 and C16 for power with key on. A6 gets power from the IGN-ECM fuse. C16 is the orange wire by the battery.
 
TurboBuRick said:
No CE light means no ecm power. At the ECM plug, check A6 and C16 for power with key on. A6 gets power from the IGN-ECM fuse. C16 is the orange wire by the battery.
Click to expand...
How many times C16 has been the culprit, we probably couldn't count. Check it close. Especially right at the ends on the fusible link.
 
Update, i am still getting power to both a6 and c16 pins that i verified with my volt meter hooked into the back of the connector on ecm. With volt meter hooked up to c16 i cranked the motor over to see if i'd lose voltage readings and the voltage dipped down to around 10.4 to 10.6 which i believe is normal under cranking load but returned to voltage reading battery shows after going back to key on engine off position. Have around 12 volts at the battery still, i have gotten the car to start with 11.0 to 11.2 volts left in the battery many times in the past so i know my yellowtop deep cycle optima isnt the issue. Still have no start and no ses light. I even tried to jumper pins a and b with a paperclip to see if i could get it to go into diagnostic mode & get it to flash the ses light, but no luck with the ses coming on at all. Checked that connector behind the glovebox yet again and checked for voltages on those wires that deal with sending power to the various sensors and the ccci equiptment. Verified those against a diagram with what should be showing voltage wise at the pins and came up with proper readings key on engine off position at each wire. Will do another volt meter test on the wires at the connector behind glovebox that has foam around it and on the connectors that plug into the back of ecm to verify i haven't overlooked anything. The orange wire at c16 that runs to the positive battery cable is directly hooked up to the small wire on the terminal connector, but seeing as i have constant voltage coming thru that wire with the key on at the ecm connector not likely the issue. Will report back updates shortly, gonna now go verify a few things then will post up results.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
My experience if the ses light does not come when you turn key on it will not start , try another pcm

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
You are referring to trying another computer correct or you meaning try another ignition control module? It started up a few days ago without the ses light working, sounds weird but somehow it did run a couple times that day without that light coming on.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Not sure what size the head on the hex head screw holding the tinted instrument panel cover the bulbs sit behind on either side of the speedometer are to get to the bulbs to take a look at them to make sure it didnt burn out. Anyone know off hand what size they are, smallest box wrench and socket i have in metric are 6mm which is too big. Thanks


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Update: Good news is the bulb was just loose and pushed it back in tight. Ses light does turn on as it should with key on, bad news is still havent gotten the no start issue solved.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Sprayed starting fluid and then tried to start it, just cranked with no popping or anything. There's no spark reaching plugs, which has been an issue the last few days. Had injector pulses but those went away also in the last 3 or 4 days.


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