TurboTdr3.8
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2013
At this point need to try a Coil and module .
Starting to lose my mind with going from intermittant no-run to no start issue
- Thread starter Nascar83Fan
- Start date
Nascar83Fan
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2010
I have tried new working coil packs and ignition modules without any change. She is being stubborn.
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- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
If you hit with starting fluid and got no response, theres no spark. Check ccci fuse and ign/ecm fuse.
Rick
Rick
I had that same issue with the ignition switch--not the one you put the key in--the one down on the column.
Nascar83Fan
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2010
No cracks in any part of the harmonic balancer or any other pulleys. Where would i be looking on the steering column or dash area for the ignition switch that was mentioned as being something to inspect? I am hearing the fuel pump prime tho, so not certain that it would be due to that.
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Rustyregal
Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2012
Did you check the 3 fused power wires connected to the starter. My lug was loose and the car would die for no reason and very sporadically it seemed until I found it. You may have already been there but I just feel for you and that's the only personal experience I've had with that issue.
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Nascar83Fan
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2010
The lugs are tight on the starter, just had starter recently replaced. Alittle back story; Initially after the starter replacement at first the car ran fine, then started actting up on the way towards oreilly's so i pulled into the oreilly's to get a couple things to hopefully cure it.
So car continued actting up when i came back out with parts, changed a plug wire out and thought it was cured as it actted normal again. Dropped stuff off at room mates place, 10 minutes go by, start car again and it was actting up badly again. Got over to oreilly's and changed coil pack out in parking lot, problem was gone so i thought as i wasn't getting any back-fire under 10+ psi boost that i would get at times before. Couple minutes go by after i had shut her off and started her up again the problem showed it's ugly head, so swapped ignition module out and same thing car seemed ok. Then after a couple minutes back to actting up. So after letting her sit alittle while that day, swapped ecu then cranked her and all was good, then had to adjust idle after a few minutes because she'd stall once the rpm's dropped too low and could refire her just had to hold gas pedal a tiny bit until we got her idling at 700-800 rpm with the adjustment screw without my foot touching the gas to where she ran over 15 minutes without backfire or stalling once idle was fixed.
Put alittle load on her by driving around parking lot area, with-in 10 minutes after having drove towards a gas station in a near parking area not far from oreilly's car decided to idle 500 to 550 rpm which she idled alittle rough and lower rpm's and then 2 minutes later died. Would stall as soon as she got refired, then ran crappy before stalling, she tried to fire up but wouldn't run long. Had checked plug on crankshaft sensor, went from trying to start to nothing but cranking. Been that way for awhile since and it's frustrating to say the least.
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Nascar83Fan
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2010
The car didn't act up until 10+ psi of boost was built, otherwise it didn't miss or start bucking so i was avoiding building boost near that level so i wouldn't hurt anything on the way to the parts store. The day before i had the starter replaced it got alot worse with bucking at less level of boost; so i had her towed to a shop that replaced the starter free of charge under warranty the next day because the bendix went south the night before, as i was on my way to oreilly's when it stalled at a light & after 4 times of refiring then stalling again the starter quit on me. It ran ok after the starter was replaced that day then it had started missing again on the way from the shop to the oreilly's where she has been since.
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I have had this EXACT same scenario ... on a customers car ... Spent about an hour trying to figure it out ... was a bit tricky ...
Here is what I found .. the connector by the Cam sensor --- one of the wires was broke and had intermittent contact ... depending on how it was angled and
how it was stressed sometimes the car would run sometimes not ...
CHECK THESE WIRES CAREFULLY ... it would show it was good when just sitting there.. but upon cranking with some vibration it would be intermittent and the car wouldn't start all the time.
Nascar83Fan
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2010
Was it on the camshaft sensor cap side wiring connector or the harness connector that plugs into the sensor cap wiring connector?
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Nascar83Fan
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2010
I had around at least a half a tank in her, i also added 6 gallons to her after she stalled in the parking lot area of the texaco gas station. There's a texaco gas station couple hundred feet or so from the oreilly's the car is sitting at.
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Was on the CAR HARNESS SIDE ... and it did the SAME EXACT thing you are describing ... when we found the wire inside the harness .. it was split.. but depending on how the harness was laying or the vibration or even temp .. it would make intermittent contact ..
when the car started sometimes it ran fine.. but when you got into boost it would start breaking up and run goofey .. when you shut the car off it wouldn't restart ... sometimes it would restart .. total hit and miss.... CHECK those wires CAREFULLY .. as depending on how I held the wires it would pass a continuity check and visually there was no signs of the insulation being bad ... but internally the wire was severed... when I peeled the insulation back and found it
it all made sense as to what was happening .. clipped the wire .. reterminated it ... ALL GOOD and car ran and started as it should ...
Drove the owner nuts for a few weeks !!!
