sealed power oil pump kit???

Auto store. buy a new pump kit. 15 bucks includes the spring. The new gears and spring will help.

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.....unless the new gears lock your pump up. With the cover on the car, you most likely won't know it until catastrophic failure with an engine full of metal shavings.

You've got plenty of oil pressure at idle. If you just absolutely have to go into the oil pump, the stock engine is LONG overdue for a timing set. Pull the cover, inspect it and if it's still good, do some oiling mods and put it back together.
 
I can pull the cam sensor out before I run the car and test the new gears first correct? I have a priming tool
 
Changing the chain is a must.
Replacement of the gears is not gonna lock up your pump. How did u come to this earl ????

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the yellow (60psi) spring wont do a thing for idle , its function is to open to keep pressure from exceeding 60 psi

for that matter he might as well put a red 70psi spring in there because there will be no difference at idle
 
it will provide a new surface to the bottomof the gears. the original surface is the oil pump adapter and its aluminum , the gears are steel and over time the aluminum can get scored and allow oil to flow under the gears rather than be pushed into the engine.
its important that you try to run a tight clearance between the plate (or the adapter) and the bottom of the gears , about .002" .
TA performance sells thinner gasket kits to dial the clearance in tighter than the .006" gasket that comes with most pump kits

http://vortexbuicks-etc.com/Oilpump.htm


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Changing the chain is a must.
Replacement of the gears is not gonna lock up your pump. How did u come to this earl ????

Personal experience from the 100s of pumps I've built.

If you start with an aftermarket chinese cover, the gears are countersuck so it's not possible to lock them up (or set proper endplay). Since his engine is unopened, I'm going to assUme that it has a GM cover on it therefore the gears protrude above the casting. If the protrusion is greater than the compressed thickness of the gasket, then the pin is pulled.
The engine has plenty of torque at idle to "self clearance" the pump and fill all the oil galleys with shrapnel and shavings.

It would be a damn shame to lose an engine, turbo and radiator fixing a low pressure problem that doesn't exist.

That 25+ year old timing chain on the other hand needed to be replaced a couple years ago. (and the pan cleaned out from the teeth that have already broke off).
 
Lol so what will a booster plate do?

It will double your odds on having an oil leak and quadruple your odds on having a port mismatch where oil goes into the engine.

Most people refer to a thrust plate as a booster plate. I don't even think you can get a booster plate anymore. I'm not exactly sure as my free oil mods obsoleted the need for a booster plate. A little bit of time with some sandpaper can refinish a scored filter adapter and save that money and hassle with adding a plate.

Or you can just replace the filter adapter and have a brand new one with brand new relief valves from about the same money as the plate kits or HV kits.
 
I've got some extras if you need one. along with springs pumps, valves, etc...


If you ever need one drop me a PM.


Have you seen the article I wrote way back when that shows how to resurface a filter adapter and set up a timing cover with flow mods?
 
Personal experience from the 100s of pumps I've built.

If you start with an aftermarket chinese cover, the gears are countersuck so it's not possible to lock them up (or set proper endplay). Since his engine is unopened, I'm going to assUme that it has a GM cover on it therefore the gears protrude above the casting. If the protrusion is greater than the compressed thickness of the gasket, then the pin is pulled.
The engine has plenty of torque at idle to "self clearance" the pump and fill all the oil galleys with shrapnel and shavings.

It would be a damn shame to lose an engine, turbo and radiator fixing a low pressure problem that doesn't exist.

That 25+ year old timing chain on the other hand needed to be replaced a couple years ago. (and the pan cleaned out from the teeth that have already broke off).

Good write up. !!!! But if the gear sticks out past the housing . Wouldnt u correct the issue before installing the pump plate. !! But that's a good point. Allways double ck before u button it up




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Protrusion isn't an issue. The gears have to stick out of the cover if you want to have a decent end play clearance. The chinese covers err on the side of caution and make the pocket deeper so that customers that slap a pump in without checking won't have a seized pump. The down side is a pump that's sloppy.
I attribute the same thing to people posting that the side clearance is loose when putting an aftermarket pump in a GM cover. If I was Melling and/or Sealed Power, etc... I would make my pumps a little undersized to avoid such complaints.
 
It will double your odds on having an oil leak and quadruple your odds on having a port mismatch where oil goes into the engine........

I have been replacing "booster" plate gaskets frequently! :D

As far as the pump building oil pressure the most critical factor is the wall clearance of the pocket to the gears.

The off-shore covers do not have pocket clearances as good as the ORIGINAL GM factory covers, and some of the new generation replacement covers from GM do not seem to have the same quality?

I have seen many pumps/covers ruined by too little clearance between the gears and bottom plate. This will cause damage to the top of the pocked where gears also contact. The high end of factory setting is 0.007", and it will not make any difference in pressure if it is down to 0.002".

I respect Earl's knowledge and experience with the turbo covers/pump, but I have also build hundreds of covers going back the V-8 days before the turbo engines, and his information about covers/oiling on the turbo engines is always right on target! :)
 
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