Nitrous Assisted Launch

got mine nitrous installed don, with a new razor kit.. will be re dynoing in the next two weeks.. looks like you"ve got it scienced out.. I figurewre going to turn it ON when the ecm sees WO tps, and the system i s armed, and then OFF at 10psi by then the 81mm should be rollin... considering the swap to an 88, we made 742 at 18lbs rwhp... [with the 81} how much more you think the 88 will make ??? I"ll bet the lag is a bitch....gonna be drivin my stuff to the local cruzes and shows...again, it was nice to have chated with you don, and hats off to you for going a "different" road... I even put the "token" purge on it... kind of "ricer"...steve
 
Nah. It ain't ricer. It's Pro Mod.:tongue:

You're going to find out that 10 psi is too early to have it turn off. Way to go. Hope everything goes good for you. Let us know.
 
Question????

Nah. It ain't ricer. It's Pro Mod.:tongue:

You're going to find out that 10 psi is too early to have it turn off. Way to go. Hope everything goes good for you. Let us know.
WE here at school:cool: .....are looking at another project. :rolleyes: NITROUS.....to spool-up the turbo.:eek:
Zex has a turbo kit that we are going to use---ZEX™ Turbo Nitrous System---ZEX PART NUMBER 82218
http://www.zex.com/Base/Instructions/ZEX183.pdf
.
Question: if not 10psi( to turn-off) then What psi???? we have our ALKY kit set to "start" at 10psi---will this be problem???? with the nitrous and alky at the same time with 20deg(19-21) of timming at WOT????
We would like to "caution on the safe side" , so we are going to start with the 25 pill.... first!!!! But, we are un-sure of the turn-on(start) and the turn-off set points--rpm and the Boost set point for shut-off.

Thanks
"shop Crew"
 
Up the kit

And put it on the bumper! U just created a monster with that. I know Im going to be trying it out this year.
 
don ,are you leaveing on the footbrake ?? it looks like your spooling against the brakes, then the front enddrops, [like you went to the trans break} .. can you walk through your procedure.. that thing leaves like a land missle !!!!!
 
WE here at school:cool: .....are looking at another project. :rolleyes: NITROUS.....to spool-up the turbo.:eek:
Zex has a turbo kit that we are going to use---ZEX™ Turbo Nitrous System---ZEX PART NUMBER 82218
http://www.zex.com/Base/Instructions/ZEX183.pdf
.
Question: if not 10psi( to turn-off) then What psi???? we have our ALKY kit set to "start" at 10psi---will this be problem???? with the nitrous and alky at the same time with 20deg(19-21) of timming at WOT????
We would like to "caution on the safe side" , so we are going to start with the 25 pill.... first!!!! But, we are un-sure of the turn-on(start) and the turn-off set points--rpm and the Boost set point for shut-off.

Thanks
"shop Crew"

The answer is not that simple without knowing what all your tuning parameters are. A few pointers would be to have the nitrous turn off at least 4 psi under your max boost level. That way, if the boost is unsteady, you won't be activating and unactivating the system throughout the run. I shut down my system at 16 psi, which is just a tad bit low. I think my transition from nitrous assist to boost would be smoother if it shut down at about 19 psi. If you're trying to spool a relatively large turbo, the nitrous shut down can be higher. If you're running a relatively small turbo for your application, you might want to be more careful so that you don't overboost. Small steps.

Activation should be at WOT, over 2000 rpm. I use a WOT switch to make sure the nitrous only activates at WOT. The ECM also makes sure that the circuit is only live at 94 kPa manifold pressure or higher and 2400 rpm or higher. Don't bother picking out a stall torque converter until after you see how the car works with the nitrous. The nitrous will change the best choice for your torque converter. You may find out that you don't need to bother with a different torque converter.
 
don ,are you leaveing on the footbrake ?? it looks like your spooling against the brakes, then the front enddrops, [like you went to the trans break} .. can you walk through your procedure.. that thing leaves like a land missle !!!!!

You have it right. I run a very tight torque converter. It will only stall 2440 rpm at 0 boost. I bring up the engine on the T/C as I stage. When the last staging light comes on I set the transbrake (front end drops) and come off the foot brake. The nitrous system is configured to turn on at 2440 rpm and 94 kPa, so the closer I am to that threshold rpm before going WOT and releasing the transbrake, the better the 60 foot time is. If I want a wild launch off the light, I'll go WOT on the 2nd amber and release the transbrake on the 3rd amber. This gives the nitrous some time to get the turbo spooled before it's time to leave the line. Most of my runs have been with going WOT at or real close to the 3rd amber. I tried going WOT on the first amber only once so far. It was amazing, and I might add, I'm in no hurry to try that again. As it is, it takes about .5 to .7 seconds for the engine to get to 16 psi. I waste more nitrous during the purging process than I do on the run.
 
And put it on the bumper! U just created a monster with that. I know Im going to be trying it out this year.

Don't need a bigger kit. All I need to do is go WOT sooner and hold it longer on the transbrake. Big air!
 
Just an update....I upped it to a 75 shot (true 75, not at the crank) and was on the button right outta the gate....

Stock longblock car, basic suspension, MT Drag Radials (drive on them everyday).....1.58 60' :D

-Will
 
There are different dry kits for mustangs....I don't know about using the kit that taps into the FPR directly, because I don't know that it would deliver adequate fuel for a TB....

I generally avoid dry kits on boosted vehicles because I don't care to add anymore strain on my fuel system. I'm actually considering an underhood fuel cell strictly for NO2 fuel delivery (which will most likely stay filled with a bit higher octane than the regular tank for added safety).

A dry kit could work, but I'd want to know my IDC BEFORE even thinking about spraying a dry shot. The last thing you want to do on one of these vehicles is max out the injectors while spraying AND under heavy boost.....just pray your knock sensors save you, because that'll be the only thing keeping you from ruining an engine.

Now on a vehicle with a FAST system, or some other DFI system, you could tune in the extra fuel for a dry and not have to hope the MAF and/or IAT sensors compensate. That would be the ideal IMHO.


just my .02....

-Will
 
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