I love boost
Yeah I should have clarified it as a "No hot crank" rather than a "No hot start" to clear any confusion.Check for any codes. I believe no hot start indicates a bad ignition module. Might as well replace it if it's original or not AC/Delco anyway. And replace the coil pack with an AC one at the same time. As for the fusible links I think they work like fuses. They are either good or bad. No middle ground. Failing only when hot is not a scenario.
Although, when one of the fusible links broke from trying to crank it over and over, I was able to reset it by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it, regaining power.
You can crank the car with the orange ECM wire disconnected for sure. I agree something is flaky with the starter. Check that the battery cable has continuity from the battery all the way to the starter.
The Positive cable and all contacts around the starter are good but I did nearly burn my fingers on the bolt connecting the negative cable to the battery after running the car last time. I ended up cutting away alot of the protective rubber around the cable ring connector and was able to get a much better connection.Check the grounds as well. A loose ground wire will cause low volts the same as a loose positive, although it sounds more like shorted out windings in the starter when hot causing high current draw and no crank. When the starter cools down, short goes away and will crank.
Hey! I believe we spoke back at the September Cars and coffee and you told me your handle on the forum's and I tried to remember it and noted "TurboMike251" in my phone. Your awesome example of a good running Grand National and all the questions I asked you left me overwhelmed lol. I would love to meet up soon if you are available. I'll PM you my info.I'm in Carrollton if you ever need a hand, probably pretty close to you. I am about 5 minutes out of Plano just off of Park/Hebron.
Thanks! I didn't realize that the 86 and 87 grills were different, not sure as to why I have a "black painted chrome" 86 grill on my 87 GN. Does the 87 grill offer improvements other than being black such as improved airflow without having the top "BUICK" bezel? I joke, but now you got it on my mind every time I look at it.Congrats on the purchase. Looks like you have your hands full!
However, it looks like you've really dug in. I would second the opinion of cutting out all the old tech and misc junk. Get the car back to as close to stock as you can so that you have a good baseline to work from and then proceed. It's easier to chase down issues if you have addressed all the "suspects" first.
Curious about the 86 grill on the 87 model car.
I'm trying to work with what I've got as far as it being "stock", and am hesitant to purchase a Turbo Tweak chip in case I want to replace/upgrade the old, stock, leaky seal turbo and add alky .
Annnnd I just dug myself in a little deeper, took the throttle body off to clean it out as it had an unhealthy coat of oil, and to help solve my hanging 2k rpm upon reving the engine. The IAC was Filthy! Also some oil up by the vacuum block. It does have an upgraded PCV valve, with the ball and not the spring. maybe just from leaky turbo seals and boost pushing oil up there. Hopefully this will improve idle and throttle responsiveness.
Stick with the basics on your hot no start problem!
1. Charge and load test the battery 9.6 will not let any system work on a TR. If a load check shows 9.6 you have a dead cell, it may start the car cold but not hot.
2. Inspect all battery connections, stripped, corrosion and broken wire.
3. Ground cable connection at block should be bolted at the bottom of the turbo mtg bracket in front of the pass motor mount.
4. Starter connections clean and solid
5. Starter and solenoid check/replaced
I expect you have a combination of the above causing the hot start problem.
Before spending time and money on expensive ignition parts make sure these are correct first!
Battery was replaced with a new one in September of 2015 after the car left me stranded, but had Zero use until last month in Jan. I did make sure to check the voltage throw it on the battery tender every few months while it was stored. Alternator and serpentine belt were replaced at the same time shortly before I bought it; battery is receiving charge over 14.3 volts when car is running and on test drives. I am missing the ground cable from the alternator bracket to the body, not sure how important that one is considering the braided ground from the block to firewall and negative battery cable connecting to the water pump.How old is your battery? You could always take it in and have it load tested.
Also, what about your alternator? are you charging your battery between the test drives? I ask because, if your charging your battery during this down time, it might provide enough power to start and operate the vehicle starting and electrical systems. But if your alternated isn't working...then this will cause your battery to drain past a point that will not activate your starter.
Batteries are usually only good for 3-5 years.
I have yet to go for another test drive to repeat the no hot crank issue and see if anything changed, which i'll do tomorrow.