NEW ac compressor??

Although it's a universal fit, a true parallel flow condenser is the most efficient for 134:

http://www.ackits.com/parallel-flow-condensers-non-painted



HTH

are the parallel flows still good for R12???


I ended up shit canning the Spectra condenser I got from Rock Auto, going with an AC Delco one from Highway Stars instead. Seemed sort of flimsy to me and didn't like the way it fit.

those AC delco replacements are upgrades from stock correct? or are they exactly the same? the pic of it on their site looks like the tubes aren't as big or something.
 
On the same subject, put in the Napa 134 retro kit back in August. Put the car away in October, maybe 100 mile on it. Checked the a/c this morning, the compressor had not been turning on. The a/c compressor body has a leak in it now. Not too excited about that!
 
On the same subject, put in the Napa 134 retro kit back in August. Put the car away in October, maybe 100 mile on it. Checked the a/c this morning, the compressor had not been turning on. The a/c compressor body has a leak in it now. Not too excited about that!
ughhh that sucks, maybe the cold weather screwed up and O ring somewhere???
 
It was in the heated shop most of the winter getting paint stripped and redone. Not sure it ever really saw any thing below 32 degrees.
 
I've read the entire thread but haven't seen anywhere where someone says to vac the system to to 28.8/29.9 hg's of vacuum and hold it there to both boil off any residual moisture and also check for any leaks before charging the system.

I've been AC certified for over twenty years and just want to pass this info on as it's a very important step in maintaining proper operation and longevity of the system.

You don't want air in the system at all.

All the people out there that haven't done this step are the ones complaining about short compressor life and the system isn't as cold as it should be.

If I overlooked it and didn't see it mentioned in the thread I'm sorry for posting this type of info again.

I just don't want anyone to lose their COOL!!!!!! :cool::cool::)

RZ.
 
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I've read the entire thread but haven't seen anywhere where someone says to vac the system to to 28.8/29.9 hg's of vacuum and hold it there to both boil off any residual moisture and also check for any leaks before charging the system.

I've been AC certified for over twenty years and just want to pass this info on as it's a very important step in maintaining proper operation and longevity of the system.

You don't want air in the system at all.

All the people out there that haven't done this step are the ones complaining about short compressor life and the system isn't as colds as it should be.

If I overlooked it and didn't see it mentioned in the thread I'm sorry for posting this type of info again.

I just don't want anyone to lose their COOL!!!!!! :cool::cool::)

RZ.
We did that at the time but had no problems then
 
Well, my system is all assembled but won't hold a vacuum. Only thing I didn't do was use the short extension on the Highway Stars replacement flexible line kit. Used yellow and green seals on the block. Buggered up the extension trying to install it, no way did it want to go in. Anyone install this hose setup without using the extension? This is with the replacement Highway Stars GM compressor.
Think this is my issue. Going to regroup and try again. New stuff sure looks pretty though.
 
I've read the entire thread but haven't seen anywhere where someone says to vac the system to to 28.8/29.9 hg's of vacuum and hold it there to both boil off any residual moisture and also check for any leaks before charging the system.

I got that info from someone else. They went on to explain that pulling , less vac does not do the job, 100%.
Furthermore, use of "flush" chemicals can cause issues. Use of strait 134 was recommended.
On the failed system on my car, I found alum flakes at the outboard end of the orifice insert.:mad:
I also noticed that there is little to no oil in the components...
Am now preparing to flush the evaporator, trying to push the dirt back out the way it came in. [The orifice filter had very little crap in it.]
 
Well, my system is all assembled but won't hold a vacuum. Only thing I didn't do was use the short extension on the Highway Stars replacement flexible line kit. Used yellow and green seals on the block. Buggered up the extension trying to install it, no way did it want to go in. Anyone install this hose setup without using the extension? This is with the replacement Highway Stars GM compressor.
Think this is my issue. Going to regroup and try again. New stuff sure looks pretty though.

TR,
I have yet to install mine but Im not using their flex line kit. I hope I don't have any issues. I don't know why when they remade them, they had to make this a project for us. either way let us know and good luck.

:)
 
TR, what extension are you referring too? I don't have that line set yet but will be ordering it in a few weeks.
 
I put my new compressor on Thursday this one was different than the original compressor. With the Highway stars lines I used the black and green washers with no extension. I tried the extension like the directions first but it would not hold pressure with it installed.
 
I used the yellow and green washers, didn't have a black one. The extensions were pictured in an earlier post by me. Have no idea why the extensions are even needed if you have the seals, how is it going to leak by? Extension is supposed to be hammered into the discharge pilot on the hose block.

Not sure if I actually have a leak at this point or if it is the cheapo gauge set I bought. Had to walk away from it last night.

comp5-jpg.251002
 
Should let Highway Stars know of your issues . Maybe they can comment.
I've also got a new AC compressor & Line Set , etc all from NOS4GN waiting to be installed sometime later this summer and am interested in this thread.
Good Luck with things.
Please keep us posted with your progress.
 
Should let Highway Stars know of your issues . Maybe they can comment.
I've also got a new AC compressor & Line Set , etc all from NOS4GN waiting to be installed sometime later this summer and am interested in this thread.
Good Luck with things.
Please keep us posted with your progress.

Going to call them today if I have time.
 
I got that info from someone else. They went on to explain that pulling , less vac does not do the job, 100%.
Furthermore, use of "flush" chemicals can cause issues. Use of strait 134 was recommended.
On the failed system on my car, I found alum flakes at the outboard end of the orifice insert.:mad:
I also noticed that there is little to no oil in the components...
Am now preparing to flush the evaporator, trying to push the dirt back out the way it came in. [The orifice filter had very little crap in it.]

If you really want to get ANAL, you could also clean the condenser if you haven't changed it and also clean the evap of 28 years worth of dust,dirt and grime that has built up on it.

What most people don't do or even think of is how much crud builds up in there over the years and if cleaned would net them at least a 10* drop in temp out the vents if they would take the time to do so even though it's a PITA unless your already in there doing a H/C.

There really is no need for a multi-pass condenser if the system is clean inside and out and properly charged.

I have done many systems [converted them to 134A] and they blow just as cold as R12 [even with my F/M I/C] when you take the time to do it right.

It's the little details that make the biggest differences. Just like tuning these old shite boxes, everything needs to be right to get the most out of it.

Hope your new system is so cold you have to leave it on low!! :cool:
 
What most people don't do or even think of is how much crud builds up in there over the years and if cleaned would net them at least a 10* drop in temp out the vents if they would take the time to do so even though it's a PITA unless your already in there doing a H/C.

I'm thinking about pulling the evap, and doing a total cleanup.
U R right, a total PITA:(
 
What most people don't do or even think of is how much crud builds up in there over the years and if cleaned would net them at least a 10* drop in temp out the vents if they would take the time to do so even though it's a PITA unless your already in there doing a H/C.

I'm thinking about pulling the evap, and doing a total cleanup.
U R right, a total PITA:(


You can clean it while it's still in there but it will be much better if you pull it out and do it since the system is open now anyways.

I haven't had to pull one yet and it takes a little longer to do it that way but I don't like to break a good seal and take a chance of a leak when I'm done.

As these cars get older I'm starting to see evaps that are starting to corrode from age, just haven't seen one bad enough to replace yet.

I may get one just to have for when the time comes to replace mine. Heck it's one of the few parts for this car that can be had for less than a hundred bucks.

If you do remove it, use new seals [I know you will] just had to say it. Also vac it down with the cover off so if there are any leaks in the system you will have easy access to it and not have to take it all apart again to find/see it. ;);)
 
Well, don't think the problem with holding vacuum was my system. Looks like I should have bought a better quality gauge set/hoses. I would put the hose to the dummy connector where you put the hose for storage and wouldn't hold a vacuum there. Got a better set on the way made in USA so will see if that makes a difference.

BTW, how much oil should be added to a totally empty system? Getting different answers. 6 oz or 8 oz?
 
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