NEW ac compressor??

Well my month old ACDelco compressor stopped working tonight, the clutch will not engage. The fans run when the AC is on and pressure is right where is should be.
I am so tired of this crap......
 
Well my month old ACDelco compressor stopped working tonight, the clutch will not engage. The fans run when the AC is on and pressure is right where is should be.
I am so tired of this crap......
Bad or corroded pressure switch? Try to jump switch?
 
Switch is fine, its new and when I unplug it the fans stop so I know its working.
 
You may have a break in the green wire from the switch to the compressor. Splice in a new wire. That's what I did.
 
The modine looks exactly like the spectra one I got through Amazon.
View attachment 251682
It fit with the stock brackets and it looks like the lines will fit without much fuss.
Did you g
The modine looks exactly like the spectra one I got through Amazon.
View attachment 251682
It fit with the stock brackets and it looks like the lines will fit without much fuss.
Did you or Chuck get your AC hooked up? How's the fitment of that condenser?
 
Did you g

Did you or Chuck get your AC hooked up? How's the fitment of that condenser?

I'm now pulling the engine/trans. It's still waaay too nasty to suit me, even after several hrs w/ Gunk and a pressure washer.:poop:
When I bought a 59K car, I surely didn't expect to get this deep into making it "right".:(
Obviously, not maintained.

RZ said: "I haven't had to pull one yet and it takes a little longer to do it that way but I don't like to break a good seal and take a chance of a leak when I'm done."

I guess with the engine out, I'll go ahead and pull the lid. I've found that 20+ yo seal tar is hard and leaks are common. So, off w/ the lid, and new seal material installed.
I may find it's "clean", but doubt it. :rolleyes: I'm not familiar w/ cleaning one w/o disassembling it. NE 1 have idea??
So far:
New ac system.
New rad.
All new hoses.
New intake piping.
New injs, chip.
Earl's oil pump mods.
New water pump.
Body mounts.
Engine/trans mounts.
New shocks. These look like the ORIGINALS!:wtf:
Wonder what I'll find w/ the trans?? Pan was clean when I took it off.
The list grows daily....:arghh:

The "money pit" description fits PERFECTLY!:smuggrin:
 
Did you g

Did you or Chuck get your AC hooked up? How's the fitment of that condenser?
I have not yet. I needed to get the car together for a get together next weekend so I just threw the compressor bypass pulley back on.

I do have the condenser in place and it fits perfectly.

After next weekend I will be working on putting it on.
 
Diagnoistic checking:
Voltage check of the clutch connector BLK to GRN is 2.8 volts is supposed to be battery voltage.
GRN to ground is 0 volts. supposed to be Battery voltage.
Any ideas?
G130 ground is tight.
 
Started the ac comp install...
The kit has the alum spacer things in it.
The instructions I have, {same as Xray posted}. The instructions SUCK..These's no mention made as to when to use the inserts, vs the pt # of the compressor I have. {other pt #'s are listed, and the inserts are called for.}
The best I can tell, the yellow and green seals are used.
Just found the old compressor and measured the ports. Both are 5/8, and the new compressor is 5/8 & 3/4. The new seals are encapsulated in metal, and fit the larger bores. The old has 2 o'rings of the same size. o_O
Also, the label is orange, and the instructions say "DO NOT" drain the oil, just add more..Wonder how they expect someone to determine how much more??
I went ahead and drained it... MAYBE a teaspoon full.
I see a spec calling for 6oz of PAG oil. Is that enuf??
 
hmmm, wondering if I should just get the compressor from Rockauto.

How are you guys making out?
 
I've still not determined "spacers or not?"
I tried the new seals on the hose block. They fit tite, but do the hose block ends go far enuf thru the seals, to prevent a blow out past the seals?
The spacers fit the block holes, and seal titely on the seal bores.
The new compressor has 2 different bore depths, too.
 
I ruined a couple sets of the extensions trying to get them to fit the repro lines and to make matters worse found a crack in the brand new lines. To credit Highway Stars they promptly refunded my $$. Reused my original lines which actually looked fine. Pulled a vacuum on each individual item before assembling so I didn't have to figure out what if anything was leaking if I just assembled. Lot more work but worth it to me. Just pulled a vacuum and let it sit overnight.

Everything is assembled (and the extension fit just fine into my original compressor line.) pulled vacuum on entire system for an hour. Charged it using the gas style, valve up connected to high and low valves vs using liquid valve down on can. Once pressure equalized with the can I jumped out the low pressure switch so the compressor would run and started the car. Used a scale to calculate the lbs going in. Took a while but worked out perfect and so far so good. Nice and cool. Used R-12 that we found on ebay.
ac.JPG
 
Looks nice and cold.....I think you can cool and can of beer on that....with all the work you put into this I am sure you can use it. (y)
 
I ruined a couple sets of the extensions trying to get them to fit the repro lines and to make matters worse found a crack in the brand new lines. To credit Highway Stars they promptly refunded my $$. Reused my original lines which actually looked fine. Pulled a vacuum on each individual item before assembling so I didn't have to figure out what if anything was leaking if I just assembled. Lot more work but worth it to me. Just pulled a vacuum and let it sit overnight.

Everything is assembled (and the extension fit just fine into my original compressor line.) pulled vacuum on entire system for an hour. Charged it using the gas style, valve up connected to high and low valves vs using liquid valve down on can. Once pressure equalized with the can I jumped out the low pressure switch so the compressor would run and started the car. Used a scale to calculate the lbs going in. Took a while but worked out perfect and so far so good. Nice and cool. Used R-12 that we found on ebay.View attachment 257554

Mark, did your new compressor have 2 sizes of ports?
The extensions appear to be a good fit on the old lines. They are in what appears to be, good shape, so I'll clean them up, and reuse.
How did you block the lines for the vac test?
Glad you got it done and working.
BTW, my original dryer was painted. Was yours? {I noticed it's now natural finish.}
 
Mark, did your new compressor have 2 sizes of ports?
The extensions appear to be a good fit on the old lines. They are in what appears to be, good shape, so I'll clean them up, and reuse.
How did you block the lines for the vac test?
Glad you got it done and working.
BTW, my original dryer was painted. Was yours? {I noticed it's now natural finish.}

Most aftermarket ones are aluminum not painted. Threw some Mother's polish at mine and came out pretty nice. Just used vacuum caps on one end of whatever component I was testing and a rubber tip on the other end.

Also, you only need the short extension on the discharge port on the redesigned compressor.
 
Mark, did your new compressor have 2 sizes of ports?
The extensions appear to be a good fit on the old lines. They are in what appears to be, good shape, so I'll clean them up, and reuse.
How did you block the lines for the vac test?
Glad you got it done and working.
BTW, my original dryer was painted. Was yours? {I noticed it's now natural finish.}
 
I bought a kit some years ago from someone called Savanna auto air. $250 for everything except freon.

Get the green o-rings for R-134a.

I used a white orfice tube but the ford blue is supposed to be better.

And if you go back with R-134 forget what everyone says about charging it to 80% of the R-12 charge. Put some gauges on it and charge it by a PT chart for the outside tmp at the time.

Do you happen to have th part number for the ford orfice?
 
Reviving this thread.. Am going to put the original lines back on. Now, the insert subject has come back..
I see someone posted that he did not use the inserts. Mark used the short 1 in the short ext on the discharge port.
I tried to call 4 Seasons... As usual, only email. Sent 1. Will see if I get a response in less than 6 weeks.:rolleyes:
 
Short insert in discharge only! Just used a c clamp to press it in. So far so good, charged back in late spring and used it on a 2 hour trip back from a car show a couple weeks. Like said previously there was no way it would go into the repro lines I had and didn't use.
 
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