Lousy 60ft's from slow spool(long!)

Guys,
I had the same damn prob with mine when I first put it together. Turned out to be a wastegate puck hanging open just a little. It would catch the edge of the hole and wedge open slightly. Intermittent for me but got more common after time. I fixed it at the track with a couple open ends and a Leatherman with file. Had to learn to launch it all over again.
 
This sounds exactly like the problem I had with my GN about 6 or 7 years ago. I would get to the lights, try to build boost and the car would struggle to get even 3#. Then when the lights went green, I would come rolling out, it would take about 20-40 feet, and the car would wake right up. I would try again in the pits, and the boost would shoot right up to 10-15#, and the tires would break loose. I would try it again at the lights, and same thing. It turned out that my car was sucking too much hot air, and I was running pig rich. I finally figured it out with use of my Turbo Link. If the air temp sensor was reading 90 and under, I could get enough boost to blow away the tires immediately. If I just sat there, and let the underhood temp rise to over 100, the car would bog, and not build boost. Then I would take it for a slow trip around the block just to get the under hood air temp down, and try again. The problem was gone, until the temp went up, then it was back. The hotter the air, the worse it was. I took an old MAF pipe, and a $10 piece of hose, and relocated my air cleaner in front of the radiator support, in colder air, and it made a world of difference. With a 14" K&N, I'm betting yours is under the hood, too. Right?
 
Correct you are...right under the hood...I do have the ATR cannister w/the opening that sits behind headlight..I'll toss that on there and see if temps drop any..I have seen many 100+ ATS readings..
 
webleyaz said:
Guys,
I had the same damn prob with mine when I first put it together. Turned out to be a wastegate puck hanging open just a little. It would catch the edge of the hole and wedge open slightly. Intermittent for me but got more common after time. I fixed it at the track with a couple open ends and a Leatherman with file. Had to learn to launch it all over again.


Damn..so many things it could be :eek: Never thought of the 'gate hanging up on it...aint enough hours in the day anymore.. :D
 
Have you tryed a RJC boost controler? It might get you to where you want to be without replacing the coverter. It worked for me.And they're cheep. :D
 
My car has no problem building boost on the brake. I can build 10 psi no problem. The problem is that it isn't making any power until after the 60'. When I leave with half throttle and 10psi, the car is actually faster than when I leave with 10psi and full throttle. Most of the time even with street tires, it doesn't spin until 60' out. After that the car runs strong and traps 112mph. My best time so far is a 12.2 @ 112. On that pass, I had a 2.3 60'. If I could only get it to quit laying down, I think it would run an 11. :mad: :confused:
 
spoolfool: I have the RJC on mine..it helped alot over the old bleeder, but didnt "cure" the problem..I'm in the same boat as seeyabye..12.7 on a 2.1 60 at 110mph...no feel of power till after 60'...I can build about 5-6psi on on foot brake, dont matter, same dead feeling at 0,2,5, whatever psi I leave at
 
dead in the water till boost

hey guys my buddy was having the same problems we changed the precision exhaust housing out for a garret housing on his ta-49. i got to talking to him about the car the only thing that had been done to the motor was @ about 95k he had the timing chain done. well i finally convinced him to pull the timing cover down and check the chain and sure enuff the timing chain was put in @ 5 degrees back. that was the reason for such low compression #'s too

i replaced the chain with a stock type chain and the car pull like hell out of the gate.

what type of converter due you guys have also ?
 
I have the 2800 stall orange stripe. Sometimes I have the same problem when I let the car shift to second under light throttle and then mat it. The car bogs for a few seconds and then suddenly wakes up and burns the tires. The strangest part is that looking at the boost gauge, even at 15 psi, the car still feels like it is at 1psi. Once it gets past the first couple of seconds it pulls strong even at 15 psi. :confused:
 
I did put a timing chain on my car about 10k ago. I installed it straight up, not advanced or retarded. It is a double roller, surely it couldn't have slipped, could it?
 
double roller

well in my buddy car it had a double roller (edelbrock i think) and it was thought to be installed @ straight up after i calla friend of mine mark @ turbo Tune he told me from the marks thats were lined up it was in retarded back.

another way i knew it was retarded was when i went to put on the stock type chain on i had to rotate the crank forward to make the marks line up. in which meant the crank was retarded back .

if your cam is in retarded your compression #'s will be low to. his was alike 140-145 on all cylinders
 
I got the chain set from Poston's. I don't remember what brand it was. Do you think that only symptom of having the retarded timing would be the bog off the line? How much compression should this motor have? 145 sounds pretty good. I want to say that the cam gear had three timing marks, and I picked the one in the middle. I figured one was -5, one was 0, and the other +5. It has been so long now that I don't remember. I might just have to pull it down to check. :mad:
 
compression #'s

well i think the compression on t a stock motor with around 95k on it should still be in the 155-160 range

also what chip do you have and how much timing does it have in low gear ?
 
This may sound strange but my tranny was doing strange things like fighting the motor for a few seconds then let go and the car would haul butt. It seemed to only do this when I'd decel to first gear then mash it. I only suspect the trans since the condition ceased when I swapped it out for a built one.
 
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