Level Up Plan for Spring. You Like?

[SpeedRacerX]

Goal: consistent low 11s. Crack off a 10.xx here and there. 85% street. 15% track.

Here's the plan to take the GN to the next level. See anything you would suggest doing differently???

• CASV4 SLIC upgrade to RJC 315-XTF Front Mount.
• Add Spal Dual Fans.
• Change out 42# injectors and chip to 60# flow matched injectors and new chip.
• Swap TA49 turbo for a TA6262 or a TA6266. Garrett .63. PTE CEA style? Journal.
• Swap factory TB/Plenum/Power Plate for 70MM TB/Plenum/Power Plate.
• Have the stock Trans built for 10s.
• Swap stock torque converter for a ProTorque 10" 2600-2800 lockup.
• Add B&M 70264 Trans Cooler.
• Add Hughes HP3880 Deep Trans. Pan.
• Already in place: Alky, 3" downpipe, big air intake, exhaust, dump, valve springs, suspension, bracing, bags if needed, alum. wheels, drag radials, adj. FPR, scan master, etc..
• Run stock MAF till it can't or upgrade to LT1 3" or LS1 3.5" plus Translator.
• Heads stock, exhaust manifolds stock.

PLEASE jump in if you see me making mistakes anywhere.

Thank you!

 

[earlbrown]

That's one interesting list....

off the top of my head,


that front mount might not be an actual upgrade.
Duel fans are for sitting still, no bearing on performance.
Those 42# injectors need to be swapped out for 60's anyway.
Turbo is a balancing act with parts, goal, and budget
Bored stock TB can go a loooooong way (just like an unmodified unit).
*this one I agree with you... almost. If you want a 10sec street car, you need a 9 sec transmi$$ion.
Torque converter needs to be matched to your turbo and combo so no recommendation there.
Trans cooler is whatever works, no specific part number or brand.
That stock MAF belongs in the trash yesterday. Even if one doesn't dream of 10's.
Heads, if untouched, are over 30 years old and will most likely need some love. Plus odds are the boost levels you would need to run 10's on bone stock heads will probably overwhelm your current intake springs.


But you can ignore all that if your budget is less than $10,000 just to get started.

 

[~JM~]

Curious on your selection of the RJC 315 vs. the 325?

Deep tranny pan. How low is your car?

 

[SpeedRacerX]

Curious on your selection of the RJC 315 vs. the 325?

Deep tranny pan. How low is your car?

Cooler temps, more airflow, lower weight. Spoke to Jason at RJC and he also recommended this model. It does seem either can do the job for my combo and goals.

New springs and shocks, bags on rear, slightly taller tire in back and slightly smaller tire in front so car has a very small rake but basically stock height.

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[~JM~]

There is a forum member that posted about a 315 that will be available soon. He wants the thicker model. I think there is one or two in the classified section. Like all RJC products, they're nice!

 

[Pronto]

To Earl's list I would add: a Powerlogger and wide band O2 sensor. The 49 should get you into the 11s. I'ld start with the MAF and PL, chip and injectors. With tuning and practice you should be able to mid 11s with what you got.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Easy 6's in the 1/8th all day long in my sig. It doesn't take much.

 

[SS/GN]

I have to agree, the intercooler, fans, plenum , and maf, will not make you any faster. The air bags are not a good idea either. They make the car act like a basket ball. Good sway bar will do a better job. BUT it is your car and as long as you are having fun nothing else matters. That's why its a hobby. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[V6POWER]

See sig. for my 6 second 1/8 mile combo. As SCOOBY DOO says in post #7, "it doesn't take much."

 

[SpeedRacerX]

Easy 6's in the 1/8th all day long in my sig. It doesn't take much.

Thanks. I like that you are running the 6262. What is your converter? I think your heads and cam are making a big difference compared to what my plan was. I'm reading a lot of good things about even ported stock heads and the gains to be had.

I have to agree, the intercooler, fans, plenum , and maf, will not make you any faster. The air bags are not a good idea either. They make the car act like a basket ball. Good sway bar will do a better job. BUT it is your car and as long as you are having fun nothing else matters. That's why its a hobby. Good luck and keep us posted.

I'm so confused by this. Intercooler "makers & sellers" are telling me I would gain 40-70HP just be switching the intercooler. The air bags are there just for when I run my wide 295s. I can let the air out and run my 255s at the track and hook better. I have the HRpartsnstuff rear sway and some other supporting arms and braces so she does launch darn straight and nicely. True, I'm not yet getting the greatest weight transfer with Bilsteins but so far I have cut a 1.64x 60-foot at the track, first time out, off the e-brake. I was going to launch once on the bags just to see but sounds like that's not a good idea. It is fun and thank you for replying.

See sig. for my 6 second 1/8 mile combo. As SCOOBY DOO says in post #7, "it doesn't take much."

Another 6262. Any opinion on the 6266??? Seems like it's the newer, slightly better version of the 6262. Nice times and again, so confused by the intercooler? You are achieving your times with the same CAS V4 that I have.

Why have a front mount? To look cool behind the grill? Serious question as I'm still learning but see guys running really well with an aftermarket SLIC.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

A GOOD intercooler will make a difference...whether it be a stretched SLIC or a FMIC. Lots of guys going fast with a GOOD SLIC. I use a FMIC as I bracket race my car...so I need to stay away from heat soak. You'll need a GOOD convertor...one that couples well at the top of the track. Heads are where the power is. I run the AC 16930 with the CEA 6262 JB turbo. It's a tad 'tight' and it requires some tuning skill to get it to launch. Do some homework on the Protorque...if that's where you're leaning. I don't know if it can be locked at WOT...or what it's slip rate is unlocked. I'd have Dusty spec a NL race convertor...but that's just me. I can't stress enuf how important convertor selection is.

 

[Nigel]

I agree with Earl and Pronto. I would add this point, spend on tuning and reliability mods first. Get some seat time, and learn to max your current combo, then upgrade. Chances of damaging something with a 49 turbo is much less than a 6266. The torque converter is critical if you are keeping stock heads and cam. You will need the right 0 boost and flash stall, with low slip numbers in the high 4000 rpm range. With what you are trying to do, a LU will slip right past the fat part of the HP curve. I run a LU, but will be going to a NLU when I get the cash, can't argue with numbers many have posted. I would go no bigger than a 6262 on untouched heads and stock cam. Boost control may be an issue on a stock motor with a big turbo, plan accordingly.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Forgot to mention I'm using an off the shelf Comp Cams 212/212 flat tappet with OEM NOS lifters...with 135 lb valve springs. I've been at this for awhile.

 

[SpeedRacerX]

Is there a vendor here or known person who ports and polishes our stock heads?

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[SpeedRacerX]

Forgot to mention I'm using an off the shelf Comp Cams 212/212 flat tappet with OEM NOS lifters.

Yeah, if I go Cam, I'm going to get into a lot of other stuff while there. For now, I'm going to stay away from Cam, lifters, etc.

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[earlbrown]

Unless you're read to go roller, I wouldn't even think about touching that cam.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Unless you're read to go roller, I wouldn't even think about touching that cam.

I agree...leave it as is. And don't run a flat tappet like I do.

 

[Pronto]

Work with what you got. Plenty to go before you hog wild. It will give you time to learn your car and save for a built trans and quality converter.

 

[SpeedRacerX]

Work with what you got. Plenty to go before you hog wild. It will give you time to learn your car and save for a built trans and quality converter.

Well, heading to Atco today to improve with the current setup. I'll report back how it goes.

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[SpeedRacerX]

I agree with Earl and Pronto. I would add this point, spend on tuning and reliability mods first. Get some seat time, and learn to max your current combo, then upgrade. Chances of damaging something with a 49 turbo is much less than a 6266. The torque converter is critical if you are keeping stock heads and cam. You will need the right 0 boost and flash stall, with low slip numbers in the high 4000 rpm range. With what you are trying to do, a LU will slip right past the fat part of the HP curve. I run a LU, but will be going to a NLU when I get the cash, can't argue with numbers many have posted. I would go no bigger than a 6262 on untouched heads and stock cam. Boost control may be an issue on a stock motor with a big turbo, plan accordingly.

I hear all you guys.

I'm beginning to think my best bet is to put more foundational pieces in place first while practicing at the track and before I bump the turbo, etc.

I think I may focus on getting the trans and TC built to my goals. Good Jan/Feb project.

I also think I may invest in better stuff than just the scan master for tuning and seeing what is going on. I have a ton of gauges but it's not the same as logging, tuning and really seeing what's happening. I feel like I'm driving blind right now where you don't know the "edge", only guessing. I need to get more proactive and less reactive. After pricing up all my options, that new Buick Sportsman XFI setup from Hartline is hard to beat in the long run.


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