What add on’s for add on’s

[mike_stahl2000]

So far I have accumulated parts from either members on this forum or its
venders. Basically I am wanting to know if I can just throw all this stuff
on or are there other things that I need to purchase to support the stuff I
would like to bolt on. Here is a list of stuff I have,

LS1 MAF with translator (installed)
Bison built TE44 turbo with HD actuator
RJC 3" downpipe with dump with bung (on its way)
RJC polished 65mm TB
RJC IAC angle boss (on its way)
Precision 65mm plenum without EGR that I polished the exterior and smoothed
out the interior
RJC power plate
Stock Champion ported intake without EGR
Billet vacuum block
Billet EGR block off plate
Green stripe injectors (installed)
Billet champion fuel rail set
Billet idler with pulley
AVC GNX gauge cluster (installed)
VDO trans temp & trans pressure gauges in console mount
Knock gauge &audible alarm
Wideband gauge kit
Raised lettered Buick turbo 6 valve covers
TPS-TEC throttle enhancer (installed)
Some sort of aftermarket headers (installed)

This is all off the top of my head, it's all sitting in storage, I still
need to get some gaskets and what not, but is there anything else that I
need for all of this to work? I know things like valve covers and stuff will
have no effect, but things like the turbo and such? The rest of the car is
pretty much stock with the exception of the suspension. I basically bought
every body and frame brace Kirbans and UMI offered, and every tubular
suspension piece offered by UMI as well as a full coilover conversion from
Viking. Which is all installed. The motor was supposedly rebuilt at 60k
miles, I have confirmed that it is not the original block in the car. So I
know nothing about the internals. And trans is still stock as well as
converter. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I don't
know much as of yet when it comes to some of this stuff, use to older cars
that didn't require 2 other upgrades just to change one thing out.

Mike



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[seedling]

So far I have accumulated parts from either members on this forum or its
venders. Basically I am wanting to know if I can just throw all this stuff
on or are there other things that I need to purchase to support the stuff I
would like to bolt on. Here is a list of stuff I have,

LS1 MAF with translator (installed)
Bison built TE44 turbo with HD actuator
RJC 3" downpipe with dump with bung (on its way)
RJC polished 65mm TB
RJC IAC angle boss (on its way)
Precision 65mm plenum without EGR that I polished the exterior and smoothed
out the interior
RJC power plate
Stock Champion ported intake without EGR
Billet vacuum block
Billet EGR block off plate
Green stripe injectors (installed)
Billet champion fuel rail set
Billet idler with pulley
AVC GNX gauge cluster (installed)
VDO trans temp & trans pressure gauges in console mount
Knock gauge &audible alarm
Wideband gauge kit
Raised lettered Buick turbo 6 valve covers
TPS-TEC throttle enhancer (installed)
Some sort of aftermarket headers (installed)

This is all off the top of my head, it's all sitting in storage, I still
need to get some gaskets and what not, but is there anything else that I
need for all of this to work? I know things like valve covers and stuff will
have no effect, but things like the turbo and such? The rest of the car is
pretty much stock with the exception of the suspension. I basically bought
every body and frame brace Kirbans and UMI offered, and every tubular
suspension piece offered by UMI as well as a full coilover conversion from
Viking. Which is all installed. The motor was supposedly rebuilt at 60k
miles, I have confirmed that it is not the original block in the car. So I
know nothing about the internals. And trans is still stock as well as
converter. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I don't
know much as of yet when it comes to some of this stuff, use to older cars
that didn't require 2 other upgrades just to change one thing out.

Mike



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Most of the guys will ask you what your goals are first and foremost. And they do so for a very good reason, as combo is king in our cars. Which is why you have some cars with a pedigreed parts list as long as your arm, getting stomped by an unopened motor car with just the right components on it. So, you’ll need to know what you want to do with the car? Meaning do you want to run a certain number, or what?

EGR removal seems to be a source of much controversy. As you’ll get varying opinions both ways, for and against.

The main issue with our cars is modern fuels are not what they used to be (when our cars were new). So, upgrading the fuel system is almost a must, just to remain safe.

A hot wire kit, upgraded fuel pump (255 lph is probably the minimum) and lots of folks seem to be upgrading their injectors to 60’s these days. As that brings your fuel system up to a safe level. YOU MUST HAVE A NEW TURBO TWEAK CHIP BURNT TO ACCOMPANY ANY AND OR ALL UPGRADES NO MATTER WHAT. So, don’t run it without having a chip that is updated to include all of your upgrades.

Another issue is timing and the factory and / or early after market chips. In that, the factory / early aftermarket chips had too much timing which is yet another reason for the new turbo tweak chip.

A lot of the old timers will tell you to make one change at a time, that way you will know if something doesn’t work. So, be mindful of that when you start making changes. Although you may be in a nearly impossible position, as far adding one thing at a time. However, that is a general rule.

Good luck with it. Sounds like your getting ready to make some serious upgrades.




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[mike_stahl2000]

Most of the guys will ask you what your goals are first and foremost. And they do so for a very good reason, as combo is king in our cars. Which is why you have some cars with a pedigreed parts list as long as your arm, getting stomped by an unopened motor car with just the right components on it. So, you’ll need to know what you want to do with the car? Meaning do you want to run a certain number, or what?

EGR removal seems to be a source of much controversy. As you’ll get varying opinions both ways, for and against.

The main issue with our cars is modern fuels are not what they used to be (when our cars were new). So, upgrading the fuel system is almost a must, just to remain safe.

A hot wire kit, upgraded fuel pump (255 lph is probably the minimum) and lots of folks seem to be upgrading their injectors to 60’s these days. As that brings your fuel system up to a safe level. YOU MUST HAVE A NEW TURBO TWEAK CHIP BURNT TO ACCOMPANY ANY AND OR ALL UPGRADES NO MATTER WHAT. So, don’t run it without having a chip that is updated to include all of your upgrades.

Another issue is timing and the factory and / or early after market chips. In that, the factory / early aftermarket chips had too much timing which is yet another reason for the new turbo tweak chip.

A lot of the old timers will tell you to make one change at a time, that way you will know if something doesn’t work. So, be mindful of that when you start making changes. Although you may be in a nearly impossible position, as far adding one thing at a time. However, that is a general rule.

Good luck with it. Sounds like your getting ready to make some serious upgrades.




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I kinda figured that I may have to go with a new pump, Hotwire, 60lb injectors with 6.1 chip and regulator just wasn’t sure if it was a must. I would imagine that I can add all but the turbo without adding pump, inj, chip ect.. am I correct on this?
I would like to be able to run mid to low 11’s at some point. Other than that it’s just street driven, car shows, that sort or thing as of now. I never beat on it as it is. Plans are to hit up Bison on a trans build, but with other responsibilities I’d have to get a laundry list from him to start accumulating parts now just to take the sting out of paying for it all at once.


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[grass doctor]

another tip for you, I see you have a ported intake manifold ,IMOP unless you have ported heads this is like putting the carriage before the horse, Bison is the man on combos that work great, a lot of guys running bigger turbos/ injectors with higher boost levels use alky or go to e85, good luck sounds like a beast in the making

 

[mike_stahl2000]

another tip for you, I see you have a ported intake manifold ,IMOP unless you have ported heads this is like putting the carriage before the horse, Bison is the man on combos that work great, a lot of guys running bigger turbos/ injectors with higher boost levels use alky or go to e85, good luck sounds like a beast in the making

I completely understand what you are saying. At some point a set of steel champion heads are on the agenda. At the moment I would like to toss it on just cause it’s pretty [emoji23]. I realize there will be no real gain till I swap those heads out or port match my own. Also down the road once trans is freshened up I’ll be throwing a razors alky kit at it and ordering a new chip.


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[grass doctor]

sounds like you got it under control, boost controller? earl brown has em for 45 bucks or rjc is 65+

 

[mike_stahl2000]

sounds like you got it under control, boost controller? earl brown has em for 45 bucks or rjc is 65+

I do not have one as of yet as I do not fully understand what it really does and what applications require it.


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[mike_stahl2000]

sounds like you got it under control, boost controller? earl brown has em for 45 bucks or rjc is 65+

Under control?? I’ve been winging it [emoji23]. I just read a lot and go from there. Usually look for info where guys have first hand experience and ask a lot of questions.


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[grass doctor]

next to hot wire kit second best mod IMOP it basically keeps your wastegate closed until desired wastegate pressure is reached, very simple part and easy to install, it gets rid of the factory boost controller which is progressive and allows boost to bleed off until it reaches a mid/low range psi and then closes fully until wastegate pressure is reached , so basically better more responsive spool/turbo feel, I think that is proper explanation

 

[mike_stahl2000]

next to hot wire kit second best mod IMOP it basically keeps your wastegate closed until desired wastegate pressure is reached, very simple part and easy to install, it gets rid of the factory boost controller which is progressive and allows boost to bleed off until it reaches a mid/low range psi and then closes fully until wastegate pressure is reached , so basically better more responsive spool/turbo feel, I think that is proper explanation

I’ll go look into them. Thanks for the heads up


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[mikes86ttop]

Mike, its Mike... Give me a buzz if you still have my number. Or PM me

 

[TurboTGuy]

I wouldn't throw all that stuff at the car at one time. Do it in waves, make sure the car runs the same, worse or better with each change you make. Do the things that make sense to do at the same time and then see how the change(s) affect the car.

If you do it all at once, and then it doesn't run right, you will have no point of reference from where to begin correcting an issue or issues.

You need a hot wire kit, a Scanmaster and a boost gauge first and foremost.

Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

next to hot wire kit second best mod IMOP it basically keeps your wastegate closed until desired wastegate pressure is reached, very simple part and easy to install, it gets rid of the factory boost controller which is progressive and allows boost to bleed off until it reaches a mid/low range psi and then closes fully until wastegate pressure is reached , so basically better more responsive spool/turbo feel, I think that is proper explanation

^^X2

I do not have one as of yet as I do not fully understand what it really does and what applications require it.


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The way it was explained to me is the wastegate actuator starts to open at 5 psi boost, then the wastegate solenoid opens (bleeding pressure to atmosphere) causing the wastegate actuator to close raising the boost and opening again, the wastegate solenoid opens more and its a constant battle until the boost gets up to the desired boost level.

With a manual boost controller (ball and spring type of any brand) the boost goes up to the desired level, pushes the ball off the seat, sends the pressure to the wastegate actuator, it opens and stays open - DONE!!

From the way it sounds, even a completely stock car would benefit from a manual boost controller.

As a reminder, the wastegate solenoid needs to stay plugged in electrically so it doesn’t throw a code.

The first part may be a bit over dramatic, but it helped my understand it better.

 

[grass doctor]

thx gx1 , if you have one of Erics chips I believe you can leave factory solenoid unplugged with no code as well as the air temp sensor on stock air intake elbow

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

thx gx1 , if you have one of Erics chips I believe you can leave factory solenoid unplugged with no code as well as the air temp sensor on stock air intake elbow

Oh yeah, way to school me in front of everybody?! Lol

Thank you for the info, its good to know.

 

[grass doctor]

Oh yeah, way to school me in front of everybody?! Lol

Thank you for the info, its good to know.

you do it to me all the time LOL I'm just a new guy on the block learning from guys like you cheers

 

[mike_stahl2000]

^^X2



The way it was explained to me is the wastegate actuator starts to open at 5 psi boost, then the wastegate solenoid opens (bleeding pressure to atmosphere) causing the wastegate actuator to close raising the boost and opening again, the wastegate solenoid opens more and its a constant battle until the boost gets up to the desired boost level.

With a manual boost controller (ball and spring type of any brand) the boost goes up to the desired level, pushes the ball off the seat, sends the pressure to the wastegate actuator, it opens and stays open - DONE!!

From the way it sounds, even a completely stock car would benefit from a manual boost controller.

As a reminder, the wastegate solenoid needs to stay plugged in electrically so it doesn’t throw a code.

The first part may be a bit over dramatic, but it helped my understand it better.

Thank you. Makes sense when you put it like that. I’ve seen a bunch of different ones, not sure if they are all the same or have different jobs. I’ve seen the spring and ball type and electronic. I saw that someone actually makes a plate that goes into your dash that the controller goes into so as to look somewhat factory. So do all of these do the same thing? Or different parts?


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[1986 Buick GX1]

The factory looking one would nice. This is a nice clean compact design https://www.amazon.com/Dewhel-Racing-Polished-CONTROLLER-UNIVERSAL/dp/B017SPGKA8 and works like the Hallman unit. https://www.amazon.com/Hallman-Pro-Boost-Controller-Kit/dp/B01N3M5XFT

The Hallman pro uses a ceramic ball thats suppose to react quicker due to the lighter weight. They offer a remotely adjustable unit to put in the car as well.

Im not familiar with the other ones.

Beware of the needle and seat type as it Sounds like those don’t work.

 

[TurboTGuy]

I had a Hallman on my car forever, loved it. They are easy to plumb to the inside of the car, too. you just need a longer vacuum hose.

This new build I am doing will incorporate a TurboSmart Electronic Boost Controller and an electronic fuel pressure gauge married together on the steering column with a really neat flat area/gauge pod piece.

 

[mike_stahl2000]

I had a Hallman on my car forever, loved it. They are easy to plumb to the inside of the car, too. you just need a longer vacuum hose.

This new build I am doing will incorporate a TurboSmart Electronic Boost Controller and an electronic fuel pressure gauge married together on the steering column with a really neat flat area/gauge pod piece.

I bought one of those as well for my knock gauge and scanmaster.


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