Is it worth upgrading to a cea 64/66 dbb turbo?

[evil666]

I run a pt67/76 dbb .63 ar turbo with the water cooled center section on my car and would like opions on if it would be worth upgrading to a cea 64/66 dbb .85 ar turbo? I assume that the spool up would be a little quicker, but not that it isn't as it is. Will there be a good difference in HP, ET and MPH, or is it just not worth dishing out the extra cash for it? I would like to get the car to run mid nines at least 140 mph , could this turbo do it or not, running 28 to maybe 30lbs of boost?
Thanks ahead of time for your opions.
Marco

 

[Mr.Spool]

I would like to get the car to run mid nines at least 140 mph ,

cast 67 has been there,the cea 64 billet 66 is rated for more power,however at 3700lbs and 28lbs of boost is no easy task.these turbos usually get there ratings on import cars with more boost.

 

[Nick Micale]

....... I would like to get the car to run mid nines at least 140 mph , could this turbo do it or not, running 28 to maybe 30lbs of boost?
Thanks ahead of time for your opions.
Marco

Of course this is my opinion, but is based upon many personal 9 and 10 sec passes. and building race cars for customers, I don't see any chance of you running mid-9's with your current build combination and just adding the cea 67 turbo?

Since HP needs air flow and RPM, you are limited on both to start. You say nothing about your heads, and even with maxed iron heads, they are not close to the needed air flow needed for mid-9's/140 MPH w/o crazy boost?

The SLIC is also another big restriction in air flow and cooling, and will not provide a decent air intake temp? With e-85 the combustion chamber temps will be lower, but you with be putting air in that would be close to 100 degrees hotter than a front mount.

Your dyno numbers seem really high as they do not equate to the track performance numbers? To pick up 1/2 a second or more, you will need about another 150+ HP to push your "brick" at 140+MPH?

You will also require 60's in the low 1.30's for the mid-9's, and your converter will not be capable to accomplish the higher launch boost needed.

If the cam will give you the higher RPM you need, it should be fine but may need more spring pressure.

HP gets expensive in the 9's, and the combination becomes more critical, good luck as I hope you do well!

 

[blackgn1]

I had the 6776 water cooled turbo. Replaced it with the CEA 6466. I have run faster at lower boost levels. I have been told this turbo doesn't wake up till 30psi or over. I have been 6.35 in the 1/8 @ 28psi. Safe tune and not killing it. I don't have the knowledge of some of the previous guys that have posted. If my 6466 was on a engine with more air flow then I don't see it not making a mid 9 second pass. I am knocking on a 9 second pass with a stock rotating assembly, iron heads and a 206/206 cam.

 

[evil666]

cast 67 has been there,the cea 64 billet 66 is rated for more power,however at 3700lbs and 28lbs of boost is no easy task.these turbos usually get there ratings on import cars with more boost.

So you are saying it can be done with my pt 67/76, if that is the case that means it would be an easier task for the 64/66. Of course we are talking with the right combination of parts.
Thanks,
Marco

 

[evil666]

Of course this is my opinion, but is based upon many personal 9 and 10 sec passes. and building race cars for customers, I don't see any chance of you running mid-9's with your current build combination and just adding the cea 67 turbo?

Since HP needs air flow and RPM, you are limited on both to start. You say nothing about your heads, and even with maxed iron heads, they are not close to the needed air flow needed for mid-9's/140 MPH w/o crazy boost?

The SLIC is also another big restriction in air flow and cooling, and will not provide a decent air intake temp? With e-85 the combustion chamber temps will be lower, but you with be putting air in that would be close to 100 degrees hotter than a front mount.

Your dyno numbers seem really high as they do not equate to the track performance numbers? To pick up 1/2 a second or more, you will need about another 150+ HP to push your "brick" at 140+MPH?

You will also require 60's in the low 1.30's for the mid-9's, and your converter will not be capable to accomplish the higher launch boost needed.

If the cam will give you the higher RPM you need, it should be fine but may need more spring pressure.

HP gets expensive in the 9's, and the combination becomes more critical, good luck as I hope you do well!

Hi Nick
I am planning to change some parts around a little. I would like to put a roller revolution xr2 210/215 or a revolution xr5 214/214 cam and swapping out my SL intercooler for a rjc front mount. I am running M&A stage 3 heads that use to belong to Eric from DynoTech at the time. Why, you think with 607 rear wheel HP, I should be running more than 133 mph on the 1/4? I had mentioned in another tread that my car peaked 607 hp at 4677 rpm, which I think is low. I think the problem is my valve springs being to weak and instead of changing valve springs, I've been thinking of just upgrading to a roller cam. I know I can pull off a 1.38 60ft time pretty easy, cause my low 1.40 60ft are done on foot break with only 4 to 5 lbs of boost with ease. So what I am trying to find out is if this new combination of parts with a CEA 64/66 turbo can get my car to run mid nines at 140 mph with 28 to 30 lbs of boost.
Thanks Nick,
Marco

 

[evil666]

I had the 6776 water cooled turbo. Replaced it with the CEA 6466. I have run faster at lower boost levels. I have been told this turbo doesn't wake up till 30psi or over. I have been 6.35 in the 1/8 @ 28psi. Safe tune and not killing it. I don't have the knowledge of some of the previous guys that have posted. If my 6466 was on a engine with more air flow then I don't see it not making a mid 9 second pass. I am knocking on a 9 second pass with a stock rotating assembly, iron heads and a 206/206 cam.

Hi Blackgn1
Is your 10.70 at 130 mph with the CEA 64/66 turbo? And if this was done with the CEA 64/66 turbo, what were you running with the water cooled 67/76 turbo? If I compare my 1/8 mile run to yours , you are running 3 mph more and a little over a tenth with the same amount of boost that I am running with my pt 67/76. What was your 60ft time on your 6.35@109 mph run? Is your 64/66 a .63 ar or .85 ar and is it an s or h cover?
Thanks,
Marco

 

[BEATAV8]

I think the problem is my valve springs being to weak and instead of changing valve springs, I've been thinking of just upgrading to a roller cam.
Marco

the 210/215 cam needs some strong springs, and the 214/214 fast ramp cam needs some really strong springs (dual springs) along with limited travel lifters. This is super important if you want it to work right.

Going from the old 6776 to either a 6466 or a 6766 will reduce the backpressure on your engine and help it breath / make it easier to tune / free up some power. As you noted, go with a .85 A/R turbine housing to further reduce the backpressure. Even with a .85 these turbos still spool well, especially with a ~16 blade PTC and E85.

I prefer the 6766 because it's available with an H cover. The 6466 is not (last time I checked).

 

[Mr.Spool]

So you are saying it can be done with my pt 67/76

im saying its been done and posted about.i have seen a few cast 67 iron head cars go 140 mph off drag radials and go high 9s on pump gas alky, guys that don't even post on the forum.inmo there are better turbos out there for 140mph but there are results from the cast 67 that cant be ignored the same can be said for slic intercoolers.inmo I would run the 67 all out and really put the $$ into dropping the weight,see where you are at then go from there.swapping parts from turbos to intercoolers may not yield the gains you seek.

 

[evil666]

Thanks to everyone for all your advice.
Marco

 

[horndog]

I will be running a 6466 with:
Stock stroke bored .040
Stock rods and crank
Diamond forged pistons
Champion iron heads with PAC 1201 springs
212/206 Billet cam
1:6 roller rockers
80# siemens injectors
Racetronix 510lph double pumper
Ported stock intake
TA stock replacement headers
3" THDP
through a Jimmy's trans and 3200rpm TC

 

[evil666]

I will be running a 6466 with:
Stock stroke bored .040
Stock rods and crank
Diamond forged pistons
Champion iron heads with PAC 1201 springs
212/206 Billet cam
1:6 roller rockers
80# siemens injectors
Racetronix 510lph double pumper
Ported stock intake
TA stock replacement headers
3" THDP
through a Jimmy's trans and 3200rpm TC

let me know how it runs.

 

[kandc7]

I would be very concerned about your bottom end!! That turbo 64-66 is rated at 900 hp. Like anything else tune tune tune and it better be spot on if you plan on pushing that turbo.. You will love it! Good luck and let us know what you think of it

 

[horndog]

I would be very concerned about your bottom end!! That turbo 64-66 is rated at 900 hp. Like anything else tune tune tune and it better be spot on if you plan on pushing that turbo.. You will love it! Good luck and let us know what you think of it

Don't worry.. it will be safe... I have billet caps too

 

[kandc7]

Don't worry.. it will be safe... I have billet caps too

I am just worried about using a stock crank at that power level. If its a new build spend the money on a good forged crank from a vendor on here. Just my .02. Hope it works out for you..

 

[kandc7]

And I don't mean to come off like you can't tune. I just know a stick crank with the mass flow of that turbo your bottom end is a ticking time bomb.. Just looking out for you man.... Good luck

 

[horndog]

It will be tuned appropriately on XFI as well. Probably be running "low" boost, near 20#
Honestly, thanks for your opinion, but I do not see many people that snapped cranks on here either.

 

[TTA976]

BB 6266 with .85 housing would work well too. You won't need as large bypass hole as compared to the 6466. Guys run the smaller ex housing on 6466 / 6766 and wonder why they have to port the shitt out of the wg hole to control boost. 64mm likes to make boost anyway. I assume you would really need to open up the wg hole with 6466 and I wouldnt feel 100% safe running an internal gate.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Guys run the smaller ex housing on 6466 / 6766 and wonder why they have to port the shitt out of the wg hole to control boost.

What hole

 

[6cylboost]

The one with the hair around it?