Finally got some time.

charlief1 said:
There is one thing I didn't know about the car when I started doing the repair though. I'll try and take a pic to show you later. It seems that there's a vairation in the wheel wells. The 83 has a big rib running down the full legnth of it in the middle and the one I got is a later one which doesn't. It will look the same from the out side so you shouldn't notice it.

Thanks for the link on the filler Matt. I was wondering where to get some. Is it water proof?
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the all metal is water proof but the metal glaze is not. the metal glaze is just to finish it off. the all metal cost more than filler but its way better . a gal of regular body filler is like $25 as a qt of all metal is $25. when you use metal glaze its like water very thin so you can only use it to finish off the repair(so you have no scratches and minor lows. here is a link to regular filler for $15. USC 21330 Feather-Rite Auto Body Filler
here is the regular filler i use. Evercoat 112 Rage Gold Premium Lighweight Filler
if you order filler get guide coat it will make your life easyer. then you will be able to see all the low spot. SEM 38203 Guide Coat Black Aerosol
 
i dont think its water proof. when you coat the filler with primer then sealer you should have nothing to worrie about.
 
The big reason I want water proof is I've seen what can happen with bondo when it absorbs water. I want to prevent any later issues on the repair.
 
Looking good so far, I agree with you as far as the bondo thats why I mentiond about the all metal filler in my post it is completely 100% water proof only thing is you have to appy it to bare metal and cleaned from dirt rust and oils. you can also build it up much thicker than plastic fillers you still will need to apply it in stages not all at once you dont have to worry about it cracking either, but it is just as good as using actual lead. I just picked up a qt from our local paint and body store. Paid 30.00 for the qt should be plenty for the area your doing with some left over. You can still use platic fillers too you just dont want to go anythicker than 1/8 inch on it if you use plastic filler you just need to use an expoxy based primer to seal it from mositure because regular primer wont seal it well enough
 
Well in Texas my "area" is a little big. I'll have to find someone in DFW that carries it and that's between 120 to 200 miles round trip. I live in a small town in between DFW and Waco. I've got to get into the shop and do some work today but I'll see about taking some more pics today as I go.
 
U'd be better off getting it online if you dont have and auto body supply shops near by. its still about 30.00 online you end up paying 5-6.00 extra for shiping but better than driving all around wasting gas. Let me know if you can't find it online i can let you know who carrys it but the kind i got is good stuff called all metal by USC i can send you a pic of the can too if you want to see what it looks like
 
mat231v6 said:
the all metal is water proof but the metal glaze is not. the metal glaze is just to finish it off. the all metal cost more than filler but its way better . a gal of regular body filler is like $25 as a qt of all metal is $25. when you use metal glaze its like water very thin so you can only use it to finish off the repair(so you have no scratches and minor lows. here is a link to regular filler for $15. USC 21330 Feather-Rite Auto Body Filler
here is the regular filler i use. Evercoat 112 Rage Gold Premium Lighweight Filler
if you order filler get guide coat it will make your life easyer. then you will be able to see all the low spot. SEM 38203 Guide Coat Black Aerosol
Click to expand...

prostreetdrag said:
Looking good so far, I agree with you as far as the bondo thats why I mentiond about the all metal filler in my post it is completely 100% water proof only thing is you have to appy it to bare metal and cleaned from dirt rust and oils. you can also build it up much thicker than plastic fillers you still will need to apply it in stages not all at once you dont have to worry about it cracking either, but it is just as good as using actual lead. I just picked up a qt from our local paint and body store. Paid 30.00 for the qt should be plenty for the area your doing with some left over. You can still use platic fillers too you just dont want to go anythicker than 1/8 inch on it if you use plastic filler you just need to use an expoxy based primer to seal it from mositure because regular primer wont seal it well enough
Click to expand...

what! i said to use all metal! ones the repair is primed and has sealer on it you will be fine. he is right you only want 1/8 in thick on the panel. you can get the all metal at autozone if you dont want to pay shipping. as for primer use.Evercoat Dura Build Acrylic Primer Surfacer its the same stuff i use, you just have to buy thinner for it.
 
prostreetdrag said:
U'd be better off getting it online if you dont have and auto body supply shops near by. its still about 30.00 online you end up paying 5-6.00 extra for shiping but better than driving all around wasting gas. Let me know if you can't find it online i can let you know who carrys it but the kind i got is good stuff called all metal by USC i can send you a pic of the can too if you want to see what it looks like
Click to expand...
looking good just make sure you have the end of that panel flairs out. soon you will be putting filler on just make sure any where you put filler its bare metal. there is this stuff called all metal USC All-Metal Premium Aluminum Filled Auto Body Filler
i would give it a try for the first coat. then use regular filler or metal glaze to finish it off. Evercoat 414 Metal Glaze OEM
__________________
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already sent him a link. they also have it at autozone.
 
Well I work at AZ :redface: and we don't have it here Matt. I'm gonna have to order it I guess.:frown: I did get more done today but I made a huge mistake. One of my friends is a much better welder than I am and while I was working on his AC he did some of the welding for me. Looks better in the pic than it is. I'm gonna have to do some heat shrinking to get it back into shape.:mad: He didn't listen to me when I said it had to be welded in less than 1/4" sections to keep it from over heating and warping.:mad:
 

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charlief1 said:
Well I work at AZ :redface: and we don't have it here Matt. I'm gonna have to order it I guess.:frown: I did get more done today but I made a huge mistake. One of my friends is a much better welder than I am and while I was working on his AC he did some of the welding for me. Looks better in the pic than it is. I'm gonna have to do some heat shringking to get it back into shape.:mad: He didn't listen to me when I said it had to be welded in less than 1/4" sections to keep it from over heating and warping.:mad:
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DAAAAMMMM:eek::eek: then again im not that good of a welder, I quit when i got 3 3rd degree burns:eek::redface:
 
If I had a TIG this wouldn't be an issue at all. I may have to break down and get one now because of this mess. It's fixable but one more PITA to deal with that will take time for the redo.
 
charlief1 said:
Well I work at AZ :redface: and we don't have it here Matt. I'm gonna have to order it I guess.:frown: I did get more done today but I made a huge mistake. One of my friends is a much better welder than I am and while I was working on his AC he did some of the welding for me. Looks better in the pic than it is. I'm gonna have to do some heat shrinking to get it back into shape.:mad: He didn't listen to me when I said it had to be welded in less than 1/4" sections to keep it from over heating and warping.:mad:
Click to expand...

i thought autozone had it i guess they dont. i guess you will have to order it. are you using a mig welder and spacing the welds apart? when you heat strink be cairful because sometimes it can make it worst if you dont do it right.
 
IMO-You may be better off at this point with good ole dolley/hammer adding aditional heat to sheet metal/body pannels could be it's worst enemy...It don't look too bad from the pic..but then again it prob more noticeable for by feel or naked eye...but i'd personally not try to add any heat to it to shrink it or shape it..Even useing a tig u could still have warpage issues even though you can adjust the heat..When I do body panels I jump around several inches from top to bottom to side etc... and just let it cool in between tacks. if you cant touch the weld by hand its too hot. its is very time consumming but well worth it to take your time and let each tack cool to the touch..You should be able to use a fender dolly and hold it on the inside of trunk and a small body hammer and use easy taps to straighten it out i have found that the trick for me is quick light taps with the body hammer so it takes shape a little at a time and not try to hit it too hard at once.. Paitence is virtue. I have also used a stick welder for body panels to stich the panel in as well. But you should be able to use a mig for this process without spending big money on a new tig machine too
 
oh yeah i forgot to add if useing a mig i would snip the end of your wire for each tack that you make because when it leave a little ball of weld on the end of the wire you have to use more heat with the mig to melt it so if you snip the end of wire each time should give you nice sharp wire to tack with each time so your holding trigger less time and you dont take a chance in tack getting too hot.. holding the mig trigger any longer than 1-2 seconds for each tack weld is too hot
 
prostreetdrag said:
oh yeah i forgot to add if useing a mig i would snip the end of your wire for each tack that you make because when it leave a little ball of weld on the end of the wire you have to use more heat with the mig to melt it so if you snip the end of wire each time should give you nice sharp wire to tack with each time so your holding trigger less time and you dont take a chance in tack getting too hot.. holding the mig trigger any longer than 1-2 seconds for each tack weld is too hot
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Great tip. Thanks. I was doing the welds about 3 inches apart and doing the on and off as quick as I could doing no more than 1/4" at a time and letting them cool before I hit it again. Do one spot with 2 or three hits and then move to the next. Time consuming but the panels were looking good. I had stiched four spots over the area and aligned it fairly well. Since I was doing his AC and explained what needed done I thought he'd follow directions.:frown:
 
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