Finally got some time.

From what we've seen so far a rod bolt broke at 7 grand. All of us are suprised that it didn't break the block.
 
looks like you have joined the club!

A.j.

Not mine but can you believe it was ARP bolts? It really was. Most of the engines that have gone boom usually break the block but this one got lucky. 2 rods, 2 pistons, and the crank are ruined.:mad: This is a lesson that if there's any doubt take it apart and recheck every thing.:frown:
 
Not mine but can you believe it was ARP bolts? It really was. Most of the engines that have gone boom usually break the block but this one got lucky. 2 rods, 2 pistons, and the crank are ruined.:mad: This is a lesson that if there's any doubt take it apart and recheck every thing.:frown:

I dunno charlie.... i dont think it was the bolt.... looked like the rod folded.... and that caused the bolt to break...

should lemme see the top of the piston... i bet it tells the story...

did it let go coming out of a high bank? turn 3 maybe?

A.j.
 
I dunno charlie.... i dont think it was the bolt.... looked like the rod folded.... and that caused the bolt to break...

should lemme see the top of the piston... i bet it tells the story...

did it let go coming out of a high bank? turn 3 maybe?

A.j.

Coming out of 4 and into the straight Aj. One bolt is still attached to what's left of the bottom of the rod and the other is in pieces. Looks like a stress fracture on the rod bolt because it's a concave/convex break. Plus the rod bolt is bent just above the break.
 
Well now back to the purpose of this thread. My neighbor and friend Bobby showed up at just the right time yesterday.:cool: He helped me cut the 2 last pieces to fill up my mistake and started tacking them in. Here's what it looks so far. I still have some welding to do but everything is attached now so it's a good thing.:biggrin:
 

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I had to take the wheels off to do some of the welding in the fender and I found 2 more suprises. Don't you just love northern cars.:mad:
 

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Well now back to the purpose of this thread. My neighbor and friend Bobby showed up at just the right time yesterday.:cool: He helped me cut the 2 last pieces to fill up my mistake and started tacking them in. Here's what it looks so far. I still have some welding to do but everything is attached now so it's a good thing.:biggrin:

you need to condition and throughly clean the metal before you weld anymore on the QP, that white residue is TOXIC and that is the result of an offset gas mixture, the type of metal being welded, and heat. Ive done that on the trunk of my car.... it came out really bad:(
 
Now for a pic to give you guys and idea of what's gonna happen to the rear. Look at the position of the spring mount on the axle. It's slightly to the rear of the axle. In this position when the axle wraps up the spring is helping it roll backwards. By cutting it off and turning it around and then moving it foward 1/4" it will keep the car from squating as much on launch. The other thing is that the upper bushing will be changed to a different design which will move the instant center to the center of the car instead of just behind the front wheels like the factory designed it.:biggrin:
 

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you need to condition and throughly clean the metal before you weld anymore on the QP, that white residue is TOXIC and that is the result of an offset gas mixture, the type of metal being welded, and heat. Ive done that on the trunk of my car.... it came out really bad:(

I'm not welding it the way you think I am. I'm using plug welds which penatrate really well and doesn't heat up the metal that badly. The metal around the weld is cleaned back about 1/4" and I'm welding from the outside to the inside just for this reason. It makes for a very strong weld.:biggrin:
 
I'm not welding it the way you think I am. I'm using plug welds which penatrate really well and doesn't heat up the metal that badly. The metal around the weld is cleaned back about 1/4" and I'm welding from the outside to the inside just for this reason. It makes for a very strong weld.:biggrin:

okay, safety is #1.... plug welds are pretty good, but too many of them and youll have to do a bit of grinding.
 
Digging it Charlie. Keep on keepin' on
I got my bits replaced this week(stupid snap-on dealer) so I'm with you on finishing up the axle. Makes you think why they"factory" set the suspension up to suck the back of the car down into the axle. They knew it had a negative effect on traction.
 
You would figure that they would put a better design under the car but they corrected it in the GNX. The pan hard rod and ladder makes a huge difference in the way the car launches. If I had the money to use it I would but I'm a poor boy after all. If you move the springs to far foward then you can loose traction because it lifts it to much. Take a look at the early 70's ElCamino rear set up. The spring mounts are really far foward and it helps if there's a load in the bed but without any weight it will do little other than spin the tires.
 
Judgement time!

Well it looks good so far to me but I'm gonna let the body guys tell me their opinions. I still have some hammer work to do but I'm suprised it looks as nice as it does now.:smile:
 

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Well it looks good so far to me but I'm gonna let the body guys tell me their opinions. I still have some hammer work to do but I'm suprised it looks as nice as it does now.:smile:

Looks good Charlie:biggrin: Are you putting the trimming on or just leaving it off? The trim would cover any high and low spots, but I think it looks good with just the wheels trim... like I did with mine.
 
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