Finally got some time.

charlief1

RIP Charlie!
Joined
Sep 20, 2007
Well I've been waiting for sooo long to get the car into the shop and I finally did it last night.:smile: The rears are rusted pretty badly so that's where I started doing repairs. Here's a few pics of what I started with and the progress so far. I had to cut the left lower rear fender out and it's been a b!tch to say the least. I won't get the chance to work on it until Friday again but it's definately started at least.:biggrin: Once I get it roughed in then I'll work on the wiring and engine.:cool:
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0001.jpg
    DSCN0001.jpg
    60 KB · Views: 1,480
  • DSCN0002.jpg
    DSCN0002.jpg
    49.2 KB · Views: 1,459
  • DSCN0003.jpg
    DSCN0003.jpg
    33.9 KB · Views: 1,475
A little more

Here's what two days of cutting and roughing in has gotten me. Not to bad for a guy that isn't into body work I guess. I'll post the results and ask any questions if I need help since 2 of the B4Black members are body guys.:cool:
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0001.jpg
    DSCN0001.jpg
    33.8 KB · Views: 1,466
  • DSCN0002.jpg
    DSCN0002.jpg
    92.7 KB · Views: 1,465
  • DSCN0003.jpg
    DSCN0003.jpg
    104.3 KB · Views: 1,461
  • DSCN0004.jpg
    DSCN0004.jpg
    49.9 KB · Views: 1,446
man thats serious cancer.... ive scrapped many a bodys that were less than that!

your a brave man charlie!

good to see its all finally happening! and gotta love them polycast wheels!

A.j.
 
nice work so far do you have the tool to make a lip so you can weld in a patch pannel?Air Punch Flange Tool by the way did you make a patch pannel first before you cut out the metal?
I don’t know if you know this but you have to spread the welds out; so don’t weld one long bead you spot weld in different areas so you don’t warp the panel. some people don’t know that so i just want to make sure.
do you have a air file? you can get one at harbor freight but there not the best. your best bet if you dont have one is go on ebay and find a hutchins air file. as you know im here to help. i think jase is a painter too so i think you have 3 body guys (me, adam, and jase.)
 
man thats serious cancer.... ive scrapped many a bodys that were less than that!

your a brave man charlie!

good to see its all finally happening! and gotta love them polycast wheels!

A.j.

Not near as bad as some I've seen saved before Aj. Those aren't poly cast, they're aluminum originals.:biggrin:

nice work so far do you have the tool to make a lip so you can weld in a patch pannel?Air Punch Flange Tool by the way did you make a patch pannel first before you cut out the metal?
I don’t know if you know this but you have to spread the welds out; so don’t weld one long bead you spot weld in different areas so you don’t warp the panel. some people don’t know that so i just want to make sure.
do you have a air file? you can get one at harbor freight but there not the best. your best bet if you dont have one is go on ebay and find a hutchins air file. as you know im here to help. i think jase is a painter too so i think you have 3 body guys (me, adam, and jase.)

Unfortunatly this is the first time I've done this and the inside was as bad as the out side. I was afraid I was going to have to remove the frame to fix it but I didn't. I'm not doing a conventional repair on this one. I'm doing a butt joint weld so it should almost be invisible when I'm done.:cool: Been doing a lot of reading in the last few years on how to do it. It has to be stiched so it will be slow going I know. I'm using a fender that I bought several years ago for the car and started to sell them a few times but didn't, thank God. I have made one mistake on cutting the new fender but it's fixable at least.:redface: I wish I didn't cut it like I did but I wanted to get this done so I can get the rest prepaired.:smile:
 
Not near as bad as some I've seen saved before Aj. Those aren't poly cast, they're aluminum originals.:biggrin:



Unfortunatly this is the first time I've done this and the inside was as bad as the out side. I was afraid I was going to have to remove the frame to fix it but I didn't. I'm not doing a conventional repair on this one. I'm doing a butt joint weld so it should almost be invisible when I'm done.:cool: Been doing a lot of reading in the last few years on how to do it. It has to be stiched so it will be slow going I know. I'm using a fender that I bought several years ago for the car and started to sell them a few times but didn't, thank God. I have made one mistake on cutting the new fender but it's fixable at least.:redface: I wish I didn't cut it like I did but I wanted to get this done so I can get the rest prepaired.:smile:

at least you did your homework before you started. i made a mistake when i did my quarter, i didnt know the edge of the pannel flaired out untill i put the chrome strip on, but i put the strip on early enought that all i had to do was a little work. :redface:
 
btw i dont want to worrie you but i bet when you revome the chrome pannel on the quarter you will find more rust. it was rusted on mine so it most likly will be on yours.
 
LOL Thanks Matt. I didn't take that into consideration so I'll check it before I do the welding. I kept looking at the patch and it just doesn't look quite right. I'll check it Friday to make sure I don't have the same issue.
 
I wasn't planning on taking the strip off yet because the main goal is to get it together enough so I can prove the turbo and the other mods I've been working on. Thanks for the warning though. It may have to be done but for now I just want the trunk to be sealed up again.
 
Looks good your rollin on it Charlie. It's not too bad at all! It's about the same shape as my '82, Hey they are faster ands lighter with lots of rust and holes 'till you fix them.
 
LOL I think the hole were messing with the arodynamics Adam. All that open area behind the trunk action as parachute to help it slow down.
 
Looking good, Your definatly on the right track charlie, Looking forward to following the thread. As far as the patch panel as you prob already know just use some thick posterboard or carboard and keep triming till you get it right cuz its hard measuring for a replacment panel when the orginal is infected with alot of cancer....... Doing a butt weld with the new panel is useally best, but you need to have a perfect fit.. Someone mentioned useing a flange/punch tool, those do work really good and you can pickem up pretty cheap especially if you dont use it offten they are great for welding in lap joints because it doesnt have to fit 100% perfect..and with doing a lap weld you should have less chance in blowing through the sheet metal when welding it in...the only negative draw back with useing the flange tool and lap welding is you take a risk of moisture getting in between the lap joint on back side..The good thing is where the replacement panel is you should be able to seal the back of the replacment pannel and joint from inside the trunk. Just thought i throw a little info out just incse someone didnt know...But definatly keep us posted and good luck ,body work takes alot of patience which is somthing i personaly lack sometimes .lol
 
Looking good, Your definatly on the right track charlie, Looking forward to following the thread. As far as the patch panel as you prob already know just use some thick posterboard or carboard and keep triming till you get it right cuz its hard measuring for a replacment panel when the orginal is infected with alot of cancer....... Doing a butt weld with the new panel is useally best, but you need to have a perfect fit.. Someone mentioned useing a flange/punch tool, those do work really good and you can pickem up pretty cheap especially if you dont use it offten they are great for welding in lap joints because it doesnt have to fit 100% perfect..and with doing a lap weld you should have less chance in blowing through the sheet metal when welding it in...the only negative draw back with useing the flange tool and lap welding is you take a risk of moisture getting in between the lap joint on back side..The good thing is where the replacement panel is you should be able to seal the back of the replacment pannel and joint from inside the trunk. Just thought i throw a little info out just incse someone didnt know...But definatly keep us posted and good luck ,body work takes alot of patience which is somthing i personaly lack sometimes .lol

wow! very cool advise!

nice to see you down in the slums!

A.j.
 
I never thought of using poster board. Very good idea for me to fix my boo boo. Thanks. I had considered the lap joint but I want it to look like it's never been repaired if I can, that's why I'm using the butt joint welds. I also have a copper plate to back up the welds so it will be harder to blow through the metal. One of those simple ideas I picked up from reading how to do it. This thread will involve all the mods, not just the body work so everyone will get a better idea of how to modify the car for better use.

After the rears get finished then I'm pulling the rear to put the disc set up on it and some special mods Adam already knows about. It helps traction quite a bit and most of the guys don't understand how it works or why it's usefull but if done right the weight transfer is better and it lifts the chasis instead of squating on a launch.:eek::biggrin:
 
Looking good, Your definatly on the right track charlie, Looking forward to following the thread. As far as the patch panel as you prob already know just use some thick posterboard or carboard and keep triming till you get it right cuz its hard measuring for a replacment panel when the orginal is infected with alot of cancer....... Doing a butt weld with the new panel is useally best, but you need to have a perfect fit.. Someone mentioned useing a flange/punch tool, those do work really good and you can pickem up pretty cheap especially if you dont use it offten they are great for welding in lap joints because it doesnt have to fit 100% perfect..and with doing a lap weld you should have less chance in blowing through the sheet metal when welding it in...the only negative draw back with useing the flange tool and lap welding is you take a risk of moisture getting in between the lap joint on back side..The good thing is where the replacement panel is you should be able to seal the back of the replacment pannel and joint from inside the trunk. Just thought i throw a little info out just incse someone didnt know...But definatly keep us posted and good luck ,body work takes alot of patience which is somthing i personaly lack sometimes .lol


well said body work takes a long time but its all worth it in the end.i forgot to tell you about the issue with the flang tool but it makes it a whole lot easyer. when you finish coat the back of the panel with self etching primmer (cheaper)or weld through primmer ( good stuff cost alot $15 a can).
 
I never thought of using poster board. Very good idea for me to fix my boo boo. Thanks. I had considered the lap joint but I want it to look like it's never been repaired if I can, that's why I'm using the butt joint welds. I also have a copper plate to back up the welds so it will be harder to blow through the metal. One of those simple ideas I picked up from reading how to do it. This thread will involve all the mods, not just the body work so everyone will get a better idea of how to modify the car for better use.

After the rears get finished then I'm pulling the rear to put the disc set up on it and some special mods Adam already knows about. It helps traction quite a bit and most of the guys don't understand how it works or why it's usefull but if done right the weight transfer is better and it lifts the chasis instead of squating on a launch.:eek::biggrin:

sound like you have some cool things going on i can wait to see where it all goes.
 
i prefer butt welds myself but sometimes you have no choice and have to lap weld because might be hard to get a perfect fit butt welding it....the good thing about the flange tool is it makes about a qtr inch wide lip on the edge of the pannel and kinda fits like a puzzle so to speak. it will give you a flush fit on the outside of the body..if you stamp that flange on the replacment panel it gives you the apperence on the outside of a butt welded fit
 
Well the drivers side is going to be butt joint but I may decide to go with a lap joint for the passenger side. I'll decide when I get there.
 
I definatly feel your pain...lol..Infact, I have some rust in that very same area and same side as yours. Im not trying to get ahead of myself though and just focusing on my frame and interior metal work first..If you noticed on my build when i finished my trunk floor i made filler peices in the trunk on each side where that gap is between the trunk floor and inside of qtrs. Thats why these cars commonly rust so bad there..But now that my trunk floor is completely sealed off i have no choice but to do a butt weld on the the bottom qtr repair, its not real bad but definatly needs attention when I start the body work..So anyway i hope maybe we can all help with sugestions if you run into a snag
 
Top