Emission Test

[Joe231]

Looking for some helpful tips on passing my T through emission testing. I live in the Chicago land area. Here are the following details on my engine.

Stock heads and block never been open… Intake has been bored and EGR eliminated… stock injectors…power plate…front mount…140-degree thermostat (engine is a temp of 190 degrees during testing)…stock chip… fuel psi (stock setting)…converter in on… 51 turbo… new o2, plugs good wires and coil pack.

My T has been tested 5 times and I am failing hydrocarbons…NOX is a little High.

 

[turbojimmy]

I think it should pass with those mods, but an easy way to pass is to pick up some Fuelon at your local auto parts store. Guranteed to pass emissions. I used it in my Typhoon at inspection time. The guy at the garage was blown away by the before and after readings.

Jim

 

[ThikStik]

Do you really have a 140 Tstat? I dont want to come off as a know it all , but that will eventually hurt your motor. It will wear out the rings-wear is higher at such lower temps.

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by turbojimmy
I think it should pass with those mods, but an easy way to pass is to pick up some Fuelon at your local auto parts store. Guranteed to pass emissions. I used it in my Typhoon at inspection time. The guy at the garage was blown away by the before and after readings.

Jim

I missed the EGR removal in your original post. That might be your problem. Fuelon would probably help, but you won't be able to pass without the EGR.

Jim

 

[Joe231]

turbojimmy and gofsbuick thanks for the helpful information. Just to keep you posted, my scan tool has display the integrator and BLM pegged. My mechanic thinks that its my old coil pack and maybe an injector that is giving the computer false readings. (?)

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by Joe231
turbojimmy and gofsbuick thanks for the helpful information. Just to keep you posted, my scan tool has display the integrator and BLM pegged. My mechanic thinks that its my old coil pack and maybe an injector that is giving the computer false readings. (?)

Let me clarify my last post. I meant Fuelon will probably work, but you probably wouldn't be able to pass emissions without it given the fact that you don't have an EGR.

Also, I'm not sure what your mechanic means by "false readings". The computer relies on the 02 sensor (while considering other factors like MAT, TPS, RPM, etc.). What you'd get from a bad coil pack or injector wouldn't be a "false" reading, it would be an accurate reading pointing you to a specific problem. I don't proclaim to know all there is to know about BLMs and what could cause them to be "pegged", but I do get suspiscious when mechanics start to talk about "false readings". If the BLMs are pegged, the ECM is telling you there's a problem.

If the mechanic suspects the coil pack, swap it out with a known good one before you pay him to replace it. If he suspects an injector, unplug them one at a time at idle and see if any one does NOT make a difference in the idle.

Good luck,
Jim

 

[Joe231]

turbojimmy the engine seems like its sputtering or lean misfire @ 2200rpms. That is why I am suspecting the coil pack because the wires and plugs are brand new. Once again thanks for all you help.

 

[TurboDave]

Not sure I saw it in any posts, but if your BLM's and INT are pegged on the high side, then you've either got a vacuum leak or a pre-turbo exhaust leak/crack.

Under those conditions you wont pass. You need to get the BLM and INT down closer to their mid range, and then you need to get the EGR functional! Oh, and don't forget a good working cat...

 

[gofstbuick]

Originally posted by TurboDave
Not sure I saw it in any posts, but if your BLM's and INT are pegged on the high side, then you've either got a vacuum leak or a pre-turbo exhaust leak/crack.

Under those conditions you wont pass. You need to get the BLM and INT down closer to their mid range, and then you need to get the EGR functional! Oh, and don't forget a good working cat...

Another common area of leak could be the flexible hose between the MAF sensor and Turbo. How close are the readings? Do you have the room to richen the mixture up without exceeding the CO standard?

Somehow, original post disappeared. But this car is being tested on I/M240. EGR must function. I forgot to ask in the previous post? What kind of catalyst are you running? I hope it is a three-way-cat. Because a two way cat will do nothing for the control of NOx

 

[turbojimmy]

EPA Study

I did a search on "Fuelon Power additive" and found this EPA report from 1993:

http://www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/devices/pb93236693.pdf

Basically they say it doesn't work.

It worked for me, though, and the folks that turned me on to it (either here or at syty.net).

YMMV.

Jim

 

[Ormand]

EGR??

Don't know what they test for in Chicago, but in NC, if the EGR looks stock, it will pass. There is no nitrous test in NC, so if you get to closed loop, and you have a working cat, then you should be Ok for the "sniff" test. If they test for nitrous oxides, then you probably need the EGR working.

 

[gofstbuick]

Re: EGR??

Originally posted by Ormand
Don't know what they test for in Chicago, but in NC, if the EGR looks stock, it will pass. There is no nitrous test in NC, so if you get to closed loop, and you have a working cat, then you should be Ok for the "sniff" test. If they test for nitrous oxides, then you probably need the EGR working.

I/M 240 is a rigorous test that includes steady acceleration of varying loads on the dyno to 35MPH to zero and then zero to 58MPH. It doesn't care about an EGR visual inspection, because NOx is tested under load. Some people have replaced their defective EGR valve with an aftermarket unit only to find HC and CO goes through the roof because the EGR valve is not metering just quite right. It's that particular. So if you're thinking two speed idle, this test is way far from that. This test is one of the Federal Test Procedure tests used to authorize a manufacturer to be able to sell their vehicle in the US market. Most of the equipment is so expensive (lab grade dyno and gas bench), that the testing is usually performed at state contracted facilities. Calibration of the gas bench for NOx includes a weather station and Nitric Acid calibration gas (a sweet smelling gas that can kill a person in 30 minutes of exposure to 25ppm for 30 minutes) of 250ppm concentration.

 

[Outpost]

Hey Joe & Cudy...

Has this car ever passed this test since the EGR valve was removed? If it has, what's been changed since the last time the car was tested?
I know we talked about this, but I was boozed - What chip is in the car during the test? It's possible that a chip manufacturer (maybe Testa) could burn a chip with passing this test in mind.

The most likely solution lies in the BLM & INT values...Are they pegged at the high side of the range? If that's the case, then I agree with the theory mentioned earlier about unmetered air entering the engine somewhere. The ECM's attempt to correct the lean fuel mixture could cause the car to fail the test.




Squeeze it easy...

Rick & Kristi

 

[Kid with a toy]

I might have to agree with Outpost on this one. I would try and have the chip burned to pass the parameters of the test. It might be the cheapest solution.

Erik

 

[Joe231]

Has this car ever passed this test since the EGR valve was removed? If it has, what's been changed since the last time the car was tested?

Easy,

The car had past emission 2yrs ago without the EGR. At the time, the T was set up with 42 lbs injectors, 51 turbo, front mount, 140 degree stat and Luburant’s 93 octane chip. The T past the emission test barely.

Currently, since the T failed the test with the equipment mentioned above and a power plate added we decided to change only the injectors to stock and put a stock chip that was replaced by the dealer for 1 bad 6.

Keep in mind, the T had made about 30 passes since the last emission test. Maybe we hurt the engine?

 

[Outpost]

It is possible that engine wear that has occurred since the last test has reduced the cylinder sealing, allowing some contamination of the combustion mixture. But if you haven't seen significant evidence of a reduction in sealing (oil from the breathers, oil consumption, visible smoke when accelerating, etc) I would dismiss that theory. I would confirm that the PCV valve is functioning properly.
For the purposes of getting the car thru this test, I would suggest contacting Jim Testa (JTesta1966@aol.com). E-mail him and ask if he can provide a chip specifically to get the car thru the emissions test. I'm sure it would be a single-purpose chip (don't race using it!) but it could solve this problem.

Another solution would be to find a buddy who works at the inspection station and ask him to record the VIN for Cudy's white car and then strap Cudy's black car to the rollers...It's crooked but this method saved me few times when I lived in NY.